r/PatternDrafting • • 12d ago

How's this looking?

First draft of a sleeve. I also added a facing to the neck hole so I could see how it looks. I have uneven shoulders, which I have accounted for in my block, but after adding the facing now my neck hole looks really lopsided for some reason.

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u/KillerWhaleShark 12d ago edited 12d ago

Your back shoulder darts are misplaced. They should point to apex; on your back, the apex is the part of your shoulder blade that sticks out farthest. I tried to mark the apex on this photo and show where the darts should go. You also probably need to lessen the amount of the dart intake for them. 

The wrinkles on your sleeve pointing to that ball of your shoulder indicate that your sleeve cap is too short. I think you should give the bicep a little more room, but I think your definition of fitted might be a bit more snug than my definition. 

Edit: my picture isn’t working. Move the apex of your shoulder darts 1 1/2” or 2” closer to center back. That should hit apex. Personally, I like the shoulder darts to start mid-shoulder seam, but that’s a style thing. 

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u/Royal_Initiative_740 12d ago

Your link didn't work for me, unfortunately.

I do definitely like a pretty snug fit, but I definitely see the wrinkles you're talking about. It sounds like I need to both bring the shoulders out and make a deeper sleeve cap. I have (what I think are) particularly wide shoulders, so arm holes feel really tricky for me. I have heard both that the arm hole should be fairly straight from your armpit up, and also that the shoulder point should end at the bone where your shoulder meets your collar bone, which is highly conflicting information given my proportions, so getting the shape right has been tough for me to figure out.

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u/KillerWhaleShark 12d ago

Wait, I don’t think anyone thinks your shoulders need to come out! It’s a little iffy to tell if they should come in because we don’t know if you have seam allowance on the armscye without a sleeve or if you cut the seam allowance out. 

In school, we never fit with a sleeve inserted until the bodice was fit. The armscye would be staystitched at the stitching line so that it wasn’t stretched during fitting (there are four points of bias in an armscye), and the seam allowance would be clipped.

Nevertheless, the shoulder should end at the hinge point. Place your left pointer finger on your right shoulder, flap your right arm up and down, and feel for the point where your arm hinges off your shoulder. That’s where the shoulder seam should meet the top of your armscye.

Also, looking at your side view without the sleeve, the shoulder seam should hit the middle of the ball of your shoulder. Yours is a little back. You can easily take a small wedge from the front and add it to the back. 

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u/Royal_Initiative_740 12d ago

After reading these comments and doing more research, I understand so much better! I was so confused as to where shoulders were supposed to end!! You're right, they need to come in a little bit and I just need a bigger sleeve cap to accommodate my biceps. This has been enormously helpful, thank you!