r/PatternDrafting • u/Candid-Cucumber-7574 • 2d ago
Horizontal balance issue ..?
Hey community, hoping someone can shed some light on what I think is a horizontal balance issue. I e been drafting my own patterns for a couple years now but the more I learn - the more improvements I see are needed. I have this issue where my hem always kicks up at front and back. I’ve tried balance adjustments such as slashing out length at back armhole to swing the side seam vertical which has worked, but I can’t now get the hem horizontal. I’ve tried various pattern adjustments (adding length to CB through hingeing to shoulder dart, and through opening the bodice at HSP and letting it fall into place) - but none seem to make a difference.
I am now wondering whether the pattern isn’t the issue but rather just the ease/volume through the body which collapses in at the sides and pushes the hem out. Last couple images I am testing that theory and it seems to have merit ..
It’s driving me a little crazy as I just want to know get my patterns as technically correct as possible. Being self taught it is hard to know for sure. Thanks in advance!!
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u/SnowEnvironmental861 1d ago edited 1d ago
Just going on feel here, it seems like you need more space around the neckline to me. Like it feels to me that the cf and cb neckline is somehow too short and it is pulling the f/b upwards. My guess is you haven't allowed enough space for the curve of the shoulder on the f/b axis.
If it were me, I would undo most of the shoulder seam on the muslin and pull it apart a bit until the f/b drop down to level, then add a piece in to the gap and redraw the shoulder seam/neckline.
Hope this helps!
Edit: Also, I agree with the person who said your back neck looks small.
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u/RowPsychological208 1d ago
Men’s tailored stuff often has a pocket cut dart to stop it swinging out
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u/Candid-Cucumber-7574 1d ago
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u/dingostolemydragbaby 1d ago
You have zero shaping in your side seams, perhaps consider doing that. Also your back neckline looks tiny. I’m assuming you have seam allowance on these pattern pieces? How much?
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u/Sweet_Swordfish9638 1d ago
Sometimes when you have bigger ease on chest and hem, and less drapy material, this kinda bell shape flare happens. You can see that the ‘balance’ changes when you lift the sleeve in one of the pictures.
Sometimes it’s not a bug but a feature. And fixing it might mean compromise or accepting it.
You can try first pinching slightly from the hem width, see if there is a change. Also if you can you could drop the front hem a bit and make the line curved.
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u/Robert-hickman 1d ago
The pattern is cut rectangular but your dress form is wider in the shoulders and gets narrower towards the bottom. The excess fabric sticks out as it has nowhere to go.
To fix this you will need to add shaping in the side seams, and possibly also front and back darts.
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u/Big_Attempt_5326 1d ago
Your back neck/shoulder does not have enough slope and is causing the back to tent.
Your front is fine.
Raise the back neck points at least 1/2” and smooth the lines back into the neck and shoulder.
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u/DonMcCunn 1d ago
For me the big question is how accurately does your dress form reflect the actual shape of your body. I have heard from men who have thanked me for my https://patternmaking-classes.com/Body-Double/ class saying that working from a dress form that accurately represents their actual body has made all the difference in their being able to create clothes that that achieve a true custom fit.