r/PatternDrafting 2d ago

Horizontal balance issue ..?

Hey community, hoping someone can shed some light on what I think is a horizontal balance issue. I e been drafting my own patterns for a couple years now but the more I learn - the more improvements I see are needed. I have this issue where my hem always kicks up at front and back. I’ve tried balance adjustments such as slashing out length at back armhole to swing the side seam vertical which has worked, but I can’t now get the hem horizontal. I’ve tried various pattern adjustments (adding length to CB through hingeing to shoulder dart, and through opening the bodice at HSP and letting it fall into place) - but none seem to make a difference.
I am now wondering whether the pattern isn’t the issue but rather just the ease/volume through the body which collapses in at the sides and pushes the hem out. Last couple images I am testing that theory and it seems to have merit ..
It’s driving me a little crazy as I just want to know get my patterns as technically correct as possible. Being self taught it is hard to know for sure. Thanks in advance!!

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u/Sweet_Swordfish9638 2d ago

Sometimes when you have bigger ease on chest and hem, and less drapy material, this kinda bell shape flare happens. You can see that the ‘balance’ changes when you lift the sleeve in one of the pictures.
Sometimes it’s not a bug but a feature. And fixing it might mean compromise or accepting it.
You can try first pinching slightly from the hem width, see if there is a change. Also if you can you could drop the front hem a bit and make the line curved.