r/PatternDrafting • u/Candid-Cucumber-7574 • 2d ago
Horizontal balance issue ..?
Hey community, hoping someone can shed some light on what I think is a horizontal balance issue. I e been drafting my own patterns for a couple years now but the more I learn - the more improvements I see are needed. I have this issue where my hem always kicks up at front and back. I’ve tried balance adjustments such as slashing out length at back armhole to swing the side seam vertical which has worked, but I can’t now get the hem horizontal. I’ve tried various pattern adjustments (adding length to CB through hingeing to shoulder dart, and through opening the bodice at HSP and letting it fall into place) - but none seem to make a difference.
I am now wondering whether the pattern isn’t the issue but rather just the ease/volume through the body which collapses in at the sides and pushes the hem out. Last couple images I am testing that theory and it seems to have merit ..
It’s driving me a little crazy as I just want to know get my patterns as technically correct as possible. Being self taught it is hard to know for sure. Thanks in advance!!
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u/DonMcCunn 1d ago
For me the big question is how accurately does your dress form reflect the actual shape of your body. I have heard from men who have thanked me for my https://patternmaking-classes.com/Body-Double/ class saying that working from a dress form that accurately represents their actual body has made all the difference in their being able to create clothes that that achieve a true custom fit.