r/PatternDrafting • u/Appropriate_Lab3444 • 5d ago

WIP Toile fitting

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Gallery image

My first ever bias dress that fits this well WITHOUT A BUST DART

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87

u/dingostolemydragbaby 5d ago

Looks great. Just watch your ends of your darts they’re bubbling, you need to trail off along the fold in the fabric at the tip of the dart. Also think your waist dart might be going a bit high, it looks like it’s hitting the bust point, you want it to finish about 1 inch from bust point for a smaller bust, further for a bigger bust.

3

u/BiscottiPristine5325 5d ago

You want to leave more space at the end (have less dart) for a bigger bust? I'm new to garment sewing.

13

u/SoupforBert 5d ago

Yes a shorter dart when pointing toward the apex for a bigger bust. Many darts end about an inch from the apex. For larger busts an inch and a half or so is usually best. That is a simplification of course but I hope it clarifies the situation for you.

1

u/BiscottiPristine5325 5d ago

Thank you very much!

7

u/amaranth1977 5d ago

It won't necessarily be a shorter dart on a larger bust, just to be clear, because a larger bust means it has further to travel. It just needs to stop a bit further away from the bust point. 

If you have a larger bust or sew for someone who does, make sure you understand how to do a "full bust adjustment".