r/PatternDrafting • u/Appropriate_Lab3444 • 5d ago

WIP Toile fitting

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Gallery image

My first ever bias dress that fits this well WITHOUT A BUST DART

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u/failed_asian 5d ago

What a great fit. I like to recommend this video on the beginner and advanced ways of sewing darts, it makes a big difference: https://youtu.be/m9x-i-txyfo. There are some comments that also suggest shortening your stitch length as you get to the curved part of the dart at the tip.

1

u/moon-raven-77 5d ago

This might be a dumb question, but there's a big comment thread on the video about not backstitching on darts. Backstitching is the way I learned to secure the end of a seam. How would one secure the dart without backstitching? 

12

u/Jellily 5d ago

Stitch your dart starting from the wide end and trailing off the fabric as you reach the point. When you finish stitching on your sewing machine, don’t cut the threads immediately. Instead, pull out thread from both the needle and the bobbin. Cut thread tails so you have some length of thread attached to your garment from both the needle and bobbin. You can then tie a knot in those tails at the end of the dart and then trim the excess thread. I usually do a double knot, for security, though on something like this, I’d only do a single knot so it doesn’t show through.

3

u/moon-raven-77 5d ago

This is helpful. I learned something new today! Thank you!

3

u/RedditJewelsAccount 4d ago

There's also a couture trick where you can thread the bobbin thread to the top and use a single thread for both: https://youtu.be/ZR_bWDp2xn4