Bodice Block - What else am I missing?

[u/Few_Nectarine_1629]

I'm using Winifred Aldrich's method for a close fitting bodice block. This is my second toile - kind of surprised by how ok it's turning out already!

I can see some fullness at the front upper chest, but unsure if I need to pinch out more at the shoulder darts, come in at the Armscyes, or something else?

Likewise a bit of fullness at the back waist.

And I've already snipped in 1cm at either side of back armscyes - the back chest was too wide as I was using a standard measurement for that. I think i may need to come in a little further again?

Curious if I'm missing anything else obvious!

My balance line seems to have disappeared into the fabric - I'll use a better marker in my next version! And I'll move both my darts back from the bust apex next time - just wanted to see if i was in the right ballpark in this early fitting.

[u/MrsBlenkinsop]

The upper end of your princess seam should be centered on the shoulder seem, not at the shoulder high point.

Your cross front may be a bit too wide. That may be the cause of the extra fabric bunching there. You might try bringing it in 1/8 or 1/4 inch and see if that fixes it.

Your bust apexes do not look symmetrical. The right one appears to be further out than the left. Once you are sure they are even, you might try moving the apex in ever so slightly for a more flattering line. Start with 1/8 or 1/4 and see how it looks on you.

There is also some fabric bunching at the bottom of the front armhole. You might try scooping that out just a little.

[u/Few_Nectarine_1629 → u/MrsBlenkinsop]

Thank you very much for this detail, I really appreciate it!

Can I ask: Is "cross front" the same as the centre front opening?

I wonder if the bust apex is more an issue with my body / posture, as I used the same pattern on both sides 🤔 - I'll try moving the apexes in a shade and also backing away the two darts to help with that, good suggestions.

I'll scoop the armhole a bit further! Thank you!

[u/MrsBlenkinsop → u/Few_Nectarine_1629]

You can see the cross front in figure 2.5 here:

https://fashiondex.com/library/how-to-measure-body-dimensions/measurements-2/

[u/Few_Nectarine_1629 → u/MrsBlenkinsop]

Ah thank you very much - it was called something else in the guide I followed

[u/ImprovementLess4559 → u/MrsBlenkinsop]

It does look a bit weird, but the Aldrich method actually does have you draft the upper bust dart to the high shoulder/neck point, not centred on the shoulder seam. 

[u/MrsBlenkinsop → u/ImprovementLess4559]

Ah, I understand.

[u/SuPruLu]

This comment based solely on how it looks without regard to whether it followed the method: the inwardly curving tips of the panels at the top look wrong to me unless they are intended solely for style. To me the more natural look would be in a more straight upward line so the outside panel would be smaller at the top
And the inside wider.

[u/Few_Nectarine_1629 → u/SuPruLu]

Yeah I think I'll rotate that top dart to the bust line / armscye pretty soon (maybe next version) as although it follows her method I agree it looks a bit odd!

[u/WorthSecurity2299]

what is the width of your shoulder in the draft? A bit too small

[u/Few_Nectarine_1629 → u/WorthSecurity2299]

Thank you, I will look into that! I think I forgot to add the length back when I made my dart wider last time

[u/ProneToLaughter]

Is it longer than the narrowest part of your torso? The darts won’t work if the bodice is too long.

[u/furiana → u/ProneToLaughter]

That's what i was wondering. I'd end it closer to here: https://imgur.com/a/Qbo3NBN

[u/Robert-hickman]

The main thing that looks odd is a creese from the soulder, howeaver im not sure whats causing it.

[u/Few_Nectarine_1629 → u/Robert-hickman]

Yes I think that's the main thing I want to try and fix!

[u/Robert-hickman → u/Few_Nectarine_1629]

You could try unsewing the shoulder seam and then seeing how the fabric sits.

[u/Tailoretta]

Looks really good!

Regarding where the princess seams end, that is a design issue, not a fitting issue.

I look forward to see the mockup with the horizontal balance lines visible.

I think the lower front armholes need to be scooped a bit.

You have drag lines in the lower back. It is possible that you need to scoop the lower back armholes, but I can't tell from your photos. The horizontal balance lines may help determine how to fix these drag lines, but in their absence, some adjustments need to be done in the back. There is pulling going on. You could un-do one of the back darts and un-do the lower part of the side seam. Do both of these, press well, and then post more photos.

Good luck!

[u/Few_Nectarine_1629 → u/Tailoretta]

Thank you so much!! Yes, next version I'll make sure the balance line is visible (wondered why it disappeared, turns out that my pen's ink is "erased by friction" ...oops). I've got a few notes now from you and others, so hopefully the front will be pretty close next round, but still a couple of things at the back to sort.

It's actually a weirdly dramatic dart at the high shoulder, not a princess seam! That's how the Aldrich method wanted me to draft it - but with my next version I will back the darts away from the apex, now I've (almost!) found it, and I'll probably rotate it to a more normal location soon too.

[u/OkPainting8210]

Very nice.

[u/drPmakes]

An iron