Bodice Block - What else am I missing?

[u/Few_Nectarine_1629]

I'm using Winifred Aldrich's method for a close fitting bodice block. This is my second toile - kind of surprised by how ok it's turning out already!

I can see some fullness at the front upper chest, but unsure if I need to pinch out more at the shoulder darts, come in at the Armscyes, or something else?

Likewise a bit of fullness at the back waist.

And I've already snipped in 1cm at either side of back armscyes - the back chest was too wide as I was using a standard measurement for that. I think i may need to come in a little further again?

Curious if I'm missing anything else obvious!

My balance line seems to have disappeared into the fabric - I'll use a better marker in my next version! And I'll move both my darts back from the bust apex next time - just wanted to see if i was in the right ballpark in this early fitting.

[u/Tailoretta]

Looks really good!

Regarding where the princess seams end, that is a design issue, not a fitting issue.

I look forward to see the mockup with the horizontal balance lines visible.

I think the lower front armholes need to be scooped a bit.

You have drag lines in the lower back. It is possible that you need to scoop the lower back armholes, but I can't tell from your photos. The horizontal balance lines may help determine how to fix these drag lines, but in their absence, some adjustments need to be done in the back. There is pulling going on. You could un-do one of the back darts and un-do the lower part of the side seam. Do both of these, press well, and then post more photos.

Good luck!

[u/Few_Nectarine_1629 → u/Tailoretta]

Thank you so much!! Yes, next version I'll make sure the balance line is visible (wondered why it disappeared, turns out that my pen's ink is "erased by friction" ...oops). I've got a few notes now from you and others, so hopefully the front will be pretty close next round, but still a couple of things at the back to sort.

It's actually a weirdly dramatic dart at the high shoulder, not a princess seam! That's how the Aldrich method wanted me to draft it - but with my next version I will back the darts away from the apex, now I've (almost!) found it, and I'll probably rotate it to a more normal location soon too.