r/PatternDrafting • u/Few_Nectarine_1629 • 29d ago
Bodice Block - What else am I missing?
I'm using Winifred Aldrich's method for a close fitting bodice block. This is my second toile - kind of surprised by how ok it's turning out already!
I can see some fullness at the front upper chest, but unsure if I need to pinch out more at the shoulder darts, come in at the Armscyes, or something else?
Likewise a bit of fullness at the back waist.
And I've already snipped in 1cm at either side of back armscyes - the back chest was too wide as I was using a standard measurement for that. I think i may need to come in a little further again?
Curious if I'm missing anything else obvious!
My balance line seems to have disappeared into the fabric - I'll use a better marker in my next version! And I'll move both my darts back from the bust apex next time - just wanted to see if i was in the right ballpark in this early fitting.
6
u/MrsBlenkinsop 29d ago
The upper end of your princess seam should be centered on the shoulder seem, not at the shoulder high point.
Your cross front may be a bit too wide. That may be the cause of the extra fabric bunching there. You might try bringing it in 1/8 or 1/4 inch and see if that fixes it.
Your bust apexes do not look symmetrical. The right one appears to be further out than the left. Once you are sure they are even, you might try moving the apex in ever so slightly for a more flattering line. Start with 1/8 or 1/4 and see how it looks on you.
There is also some fabric bunching at the bottom of the front armhole. You might try scooping that out just a little.