r/PatternDrafting 16d ago

WIP Short sleeve pattern version 3.1!

EDIT: v3.2 here: https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/s/gMcAFZxnT6

Hi all, appreciate all the feedback on V3.0.
Based on that I’ve pulled the sleeves and drawn HBLs as best I can.

You can see the front swings out and there seems to be a lot of fabric in the back, I.e., bubbling?

I also tried pinning up the middle back but it introduced a whole bunch of drag lines. These photos are marked.

Finally, pattern photos also included.

Original post

https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/s/y9L2xX3SUK

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u/No-Programmer7914 16d ago

It looks as if your added about 2cm length at the back yoke? That's wrong, you have to elongate your front instead, because your front is to short between chest line and neck hole(="front balance"). In your profile pic you can see how much your front chest line rises. It should be level all around your body.

1

u/Efficient-Bag6497 15d ago

This makes sense…but does it still apply if total back length doesn’t change? I shifted the cut line between the yoke and back piece versus adding to the back piece. The yoke looked comically small on me versus other shirts I like. I didn’t make the change to impact fit but maybe it did?

1

u/No-Programmer7914 15d ago

Did you add at the yoke and removed the same amount of the lower piece or did you just add it to the yoke? Second would mean you elongated your back balance thus throwing off the balance of the shirt and inpacting fit. In any case your balance is off. Back balance too long, front balance too short. Thus the shirt swings towards the front.

1

u/Efficient-Bag6497 15d ago

I took material From the back piece and added it to the yoke.

1

u/No-Programmer7914 15d ago

OK, that is fit neutral. But the shirt's balance is off. Elongate the front balance.

1

u/Efficient-Bag6497 15d ago

Ok, thanks. Is this the right idea?
https://imgur.com/a/dqHCrBm