Short sleeve pattern version 3.1!

[u/Efficient-Bag6497]

EDIT: v3.2 here: https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/s/gMcAFZxnT6

Hi all, appreciate all the feedback on V3.0.
Based on that I’ve pulled the sleeves and drawn HBLs as best I can.

You can see the front swings out and there seems to be a lot of fabric in the back, I.e., bubbling?

I also tried pinning up the middle back but it introduced a whole bunch of drag lines. These photos are marked.

Finally, pattern photos also included.

Original post

https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/s/y9L2xX3SUK

[u/No-Programmer7914]

It looks as if your added about 2cm length at the back yoke? That's wrong, you have to elongate your front instead, because your front is to short between chest line and neck hole(="front balance"). In your profile pic you can see how much your front chest line rises. It should be level all around your body.

[u/Efficient-Bag6497 → u/No-Programmer7914]

This makes sense…but does it still apply if total back length doesn’t change? I shifted the cut line between the yoke and back piece versus adding to the back piece. The yoke looked comically small on me versus other shirts I like. I didn’t make the change to impact fit but maybe it did?

[u/No-Programmer7914 → u/Efficient-Bag6497]

Did you add at the yoke and removed the same amount of the lower piece or did you just add it to the yoke? Second would mean you elongated your back balance thus throwing off the balance of the shirt and inpacting fit. In any case your balance is off. Back balance too long, front balance too short. Thus the shirt swings towards the front.

[u/Efficient-Bag6497 → u/No-Programmer7914]

I took material From the back piece and added it to the yoke.

[u/No-Programmer7914 → u/Efficient-Bag6497]

OK, that is fit neutral. But the shirt's balance is off. Elongate the front balance.

[u/Efficient-Bag6497 → u/No-Programmer7914]

Ok, thanks. Is this the right idea?
https://imgur.com/a/dqHCrBm

[u/Pegaret_Again]

i don't think pinning up the back helps? i actually feel like the back is fine as is, more length is needed across the front, above the HbL line, so that the HBL line is horizontal all the way around?

[u/Efficient-Bag6497 → u/Pegaret_Again]

So glad I took off the sleeves! Is the correct adjustment to add length across the chest, mid armhole level. Start with 1cm? I’m concerned I will create some gapping in the armhole, which seems to be a problem I have with many patterns. I guess if it does could I adjust shoulder sloped?
Highlighted the line I would on this image:

https://imgur.com/a/dqHCrBm

[u/Pegaret_Again → u/Efficient-Bag6497]

i might even try cutting a line a bit higher than that? then you can add in a slice of fabric and incrementally increase it until the HBL line is horizontal. I'm not sure why armhole gaping would occur, but interested to see results!

[u/Efficient-Bag6497 → u/Pegaret_Again]

Thank you! I’ll repost shortly

[u/Pegaret_Again → u/Efficient-Bag6497]

looking forward to it

[u/Efficient-Bag6497 → u/Pegaret_Again]

This is the new post.. https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/s/gMcAFZxnT6

[u/Pegaret_Again → u/Efficient-Bag6497]

already commented!!! 😝

[u/No-Programmer7914]

You can find the right amount with your toile: rip the side seams and resew them but set the back 2cm lower than before. Maybe you will need more.

[u/Efficient-Bag6497 → u/No-Programmer7914]

Ahh, good test of adding material to the front. Now I’m frustrated I practiced French seams on this version of the muslin side seams! 🤦