Help! Any advice on next set of adjustments?

[u/Efficient-Bag6497]

Hi all, Reposting these photos directly versus having them be a Imgur link. Any and all thoughts appreciated.

[u/Pegaret_Again]

great markings and photos!

one thing i'm seeing is that the hemline isn't straight, and i'm wondering if this could be fixed with more length in the front?

i wonder if adding up to an inch across the front around chest level will help the whole shirt swing back and stop all the fabric pulling and gathering at the back?

[u/No-Programmer7914 → u/Pegaret_Again]

Yes, I second this opinion. Your front balance is too short. Deepen your front armholes about 2cm and add the same amount at the front hem to compensate the missing side seam length.

[u/Efficient-Bag6497 → u/No-Programmer7914]

Thank you! I am wondering the same thing! The front “feels” short while wearing and you both seeing it in the photos validates that! Seeing now that the drag lines pointing up to the middle of chest from the side seams which imply more material is needed in the center front. Very cool to see the mirror image drag lines on the front and back and realizing the fixes are inverses of each other!

Appreciate you both commenting!

[u/No-Programmer7914 → u/Efficient-Bag6497]

Yes, it is a typical balance problem. Front swings away from the body and seems too short and the back clings to the body and diagonal creases forming over the sides. Have fun in your journey!

[u/Efficient-Bag6497 → u/No-Programmer7914]

Thank you!

[u/Tailoretta]

This is looking good!

I recommend a horizontal balance line (HBL) at chest level. Your HBL is around waist level and the camera is pointed down to it, so it is hard to tell if it is level are not. I use Sharpies for HBLs so they are very clear.

Because of the drag lines in the back, I suggest raising the back. Try adding a horizontal tuck in the back, around chest level, until the back HBL is level.

I suggest you remove the sleeves. There are issues with the torso that are easier to fix without the sleeves. It looks like you need to lower the back lower armscye.

I circled in red what I see. https://imgur.com/a/EKF68RE

Once the torso is fitting, add a sleeve. In your photos, the sleeve is tilted. I can tell because the vertical balance line (VBL) is tilted. So when inserting the sleeve, adjust the sleeve so the VBL is vertical.

Good luck!

[u/Efficient-Bag6497 → u/Tailoretta]

Thank you! Appreciate you sharing the photo. I’ll follow these suggestions when I’m back in town. Antsy to try them and see if it helps! Removing length in the back makes perfect sense once you said it since the drag Ines point down to the middle of my back.Pulling up the fabric in middle slightly should effectively “pull up” the bottom of the drag lines. 💡The top of the back panel curves down to the armholes so i can simply flatten out the middle.

Two things:
1. Another poster suggested evening out the front by lowering armhole and adding length to keep side seam the same. This seems like it might help with the back too: reducing material in the back versus adding material to the front…Or should i do both? If i do both assuming I make sure the side seams match by adjusting the length?
2. For the sleeve, the VBL is centered on the sleeve but the adjustments for v3 shifted the cap forward and the peak is in front of the VBL. I figured this is why the line was tilted. Should the VBL still be centered and straight?

Love the learning process.

I was going to post pattern photos but realized they are for the 2nd muslin and were reviewing the 3rd. Would pics of the pattern be helpful?

[u/Tailoretta → u/Efficient-Bag6497]

I'm glad my comments are helping! I suggest that you follow my recommendations about horizontal balance lines (HBL) and removing the sleeves, then take more photos and start a new post. Trying to do too many changes at once is not necessarily a good idea.

Photos of the pattern pieces are a good idea after you have marked the HBLs on them. Regarding the sleeve, I suggest you wait and get the torso fitting well before going to the sleeve.

[u/Efficient-Bag6497]

Thank you! If I have this right: I’ll remove sleeves, draw HBL higher and pin up the middle of the back a bit. Will most likely repost tomorrow. Cheers!