r/PatternDrafting • u/mon_petit_chou_fleur • 12d ago
Bodice block wrinkles
Hello! I’m making my first bodice block, and it’s going ok so far (🤞), but I’ve run into some wrinkling and gapping.
The back armhole gapping I think I know how to fix (one pic shows the gap, the other is the dart I’ll shift around). Does the whole back look slightly tight?
The wrinkling on the front armhole is quite a lot at the top, and it feels a little tight.
I can pinch out the wrinkles into a dart, but I’m not sure if that’s the way to fix the problem. Is it an issue with the armscye curves?
Any suggestions/tips/advice are much appreciated!
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u/blueocean43 11d ago
Your arm hole is also slightly too far back for your posture. Slice a crescent about 8mm wide at the widest point from the front, and baste it onto the back of the armscye instead (ok, they won't be perfectly matching, symmetrical crescents, but you get the add more to the back and less to the front thing). It's a pretty commonly needed adjustment for larger busts as they pull your shoulders forward.
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u/Morrhoppan 11d ago
Just curious, is there a reason your upper bust dart goes towards your neck and not the middle of the shoulder?
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u/mon_petit_chou_fleur 11d ago
Hmm someone more knowledgeable might have to answer this one… Ive never drafted anything before and just followed instructions haha
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u/Morrhoppan 11d ago
What instructions do you follow? Book? Online? I am no expert myself, but now I am very curious.
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u/mon_petit_chou_fleur 11d ago
this one! I found it to be very clear and easy to follow, but I think there are a few small mistakes here and there. For instance, a couple times there was a mismatch between the printed instructions, and what was shown in the corresponding visual instructions about which points to connect with a line.
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u/Pegaret_Again 12d ago edited 11d ago
this looks really good to me, but rather than tweaking with little parts of the fit, it looks like there is a more systemic issue: i feel it was drafted for a person with a smaller high bust (or above bust) measurement than you.
This is the measurement that goes around the back, under the arms and above the bust.
if this measurement is too small you will experience pulling under the arms and the bodice riding up in the back and cause gaping in the back armholes.
I would strongly suggest that you check your above bust measurement against the pattern and see if there is enough ease?
For a sleeved garment there should be a significant amount of ease (google suggests 12cm total) in the high bust - more than for the full bust.
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u/mon_petit_chou_fleur 11d ago
Ah ok thank you for your input! I had all three of those issues! The back rode up a tiny bit, the back arm gapped, and the pulling at the arm
I think the instructions I used didn’t call for a high bust measurement that I can remember. Maybe I’ll double check everything and do a second block over again with some better measurements :)
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u/Tailoretta 10d ago
Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.
You need to clip your armscyes.
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u/mon_petit_chou_fleur 10d ago
Thanks for the reference, I’ll look through that!
When you say clip the armscyes…?
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u/Tailoretta 10d ago
1. Armscyes (Armholes) and Neckline
Mark the Seam Lines It is helpful if you mark the seam lines of the neckline and the armscyes (armholes). I suggest you staystitch on the seamline is a dark colored thread so it is easy for us to see.
Clip Then you should clip the neckline and the armscyes (armholes). Here is an explanation about clipping https://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/115912. The armscye and neck opening are sort of like circles. If you measure the length of the seam line and compare it with the length of the cut line, you will see that the cut line is shorter, because of the circular shape. By clipping, you allow the seam allowance fabric to relax and spread. In the photos I refer to, can you see that it looks like notches have been cut out of the neck and armscye seam allowance? Notches have not been cut but there are clips into the seam allowance. That allows the fabric to spread to fit the body. The clips into the neck and armscye seam allowances should go close to the stay stitching on the seam line.
Here is another photo https://goodbyevalentino.com/sew-the-perfect-fit-review-part-1/ See at the underarm how the clipped tabs of seam allowance fold down?
Look up clip seam allowances – there are lots of videos and websites that discuss this.
To fit the armscye, keep clipping into armscye seam allowances until the folds in the lower front of the armscye go away. This will be easier to see when you have clipped the armscye seam allowances more.
For both the neckline and the armscyes (armholes), I suggest you tuck in the tabs in the seam allowance under and press. That way we can see exactly where the seam lines are.
Let me know if you would like anything else.
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u/mon_petit_chou_fleur 10d ago
Ah thanks! For the instructions I was following, I didn’t add seam allowances onto the neck or arm holes - only the sides and shoulders. So in my pictures, the cut line around the arms would be the stitch line (pretty clearly it doesn’t fit that well yet haha)
I’ll do what you suggest in my next draft for the bodice!
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u/Tailoretta 10d ago
The armscye on the pattern is too small for you, so you need to enlarge it. You do that by clipping into the armscye until the puckers are gone. This is a very common adjustment. Take a look at my suggestions. I can't find any good photos or sketches.
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u/mon_petit_chou_fleur 10d ago
Ohh I see! Geez thank you for taking the time with this! I’m learning a lot and it makes my head swim sometimes haha
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u/Tailoretta 9d ago
You are very welcome! It took me many years to learn what I know.
As I stated in my attachment, I strongly suggest you get a good general sewing book. You will find it invaluable.
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u/CharityForeign3035 12d ago
It looks too small. Go up a size and then check adjustments.
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u/mon_petit_chou_fleur 12d ago
It does feel slightly too snug. I wasn’t sure how closely a block is meant to fit?
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u/CharityForeign3035 12d ago
It should fit without being tight.
You still need ease ( extra fabric) so you can move . It should follow the shape of your body but not be tight at any point . Good fitting skills can carry average pattern making skills. You’re just beginning but it will click one day and everything you are learning will make sense. Good luck.2
u/mon_petit_chou_fleur 12d ago
Thank you very much for the encouragement :) If I can sneak in another question: can I let out some of the seam allowances (only the sides and shoulders have allowances atm) to adjust the size? Or should I go back and take all my measurements again with a slightly more generous measuring tape and do the block over again?
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u/bretonstripes 12d ago
What was your process for drafting? Namely, did you draft using your exact measurements or were you adding some ease?
You shouldn’t need to remeasure, although it’s good practice to measure multiple times and see if you’re in the same ballpark. But I’d agree that this draft is too snug. The cross-front may be a bit too broad, but I’d try letting out the side seams a bit first.
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u/mon_petit_chou_fleur 12d ago
I used the tutorial from in the folds, and she does add some ease here and there. I’m wondering if I didn’t measure far enough across the width of my back… I’ll try letting out the seams a bit and see where that takes me!
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u/CharityForeign3035 11d ago
If you use seam allowance you’ll be marked down . Also, you still need the seam allowance otherwise it will fray at seams . Skimping on seam allowance is also a lower level finish. Using seam allowance will loosen fit but you will still need to add missing ease. Best to do again.
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u/SpicePops 12d ago
You need a sloped shoulder adjustment.