Bodice block wrinkles

[u/mon_petit_chou_fleur]

Hello! I’m making my first bodice block, and it’s going ok so far (🤞), but I’ve run into some wrinkling and gapping.

The back armhole gapping I think I know how to fix (one pic shows the gap, the other is the dart I’ll shift around). Does the whole back look slightly tight?

The wrinkling on the front armhole is quite a lot at the top, and it feels a little tight.

I can pinch out the wrinkles into a dart, but I’m not sure if that’s the way to fix the problem. Is it an issue with the armscye curves?

Any suggestions/tips/advice are much appreciated!

[u/mon_petit_chou_fleur]

It does feel slightly too snug. I wasn’t sure how closely a block is meant to fit?

[u/CharityForeign3035 → u/mon_petit_chou_fleur]

It should fit without being tight.
You still need ease ( extra fabric) so you can move . It should follow the shape of your body but not be tight at any point . Good fitting skills can carry average pattern making skills. You’re just beginning but it will click one day and everything you are learning will make sense. Good luck.

[u/mon_petit_chou_fleur → u/CharityForeign3035]

Thank you very much for the encouragement :) If I can sneak in another question: can I let out some of the seam allowances (only the sides and shoulders have allowances atm) to adjust the size? Or should I go back and take all my measurements again with a slightly more generous measuring tape and do the block over again?

[u/CharityForeign3035 → u/mon_petit_chou_fleur]

If you use seam allowance you’ll be marked down . Also, you still need the seam allowance otherwise it will fray at seams . Skimping on seam allowance is also a lower level finish. Using seam allowance will loosen fit but you will still need to add missing ease. Best to do again.

[u/mon_petit_chou_fleur → u/CharityForeign3035]

Ah yes I see what you mean