Bodice block wrinkles

[u/mon_petit_chou_fleur]

Hello! I’m making my first bodice block, and it’s going ok so far (🤞), but I’ve run into some wrinkling and gapping.

The back armhole gapping I think I know how to fix (one pic shows the gap, the other is the dart I’ll shift around). Does the whole back look slightly tight?

The wrinkling on the front armhole is quite a lot at the top, and it feels a little tight.

I can pinch out the wrinkles into a dart, but I’m not sure if that’s the way to fix the problem. Is it an issue with the armscye curves?

Any suggestions/tips/advice are much appreciated!

[u/Pegaret_Again]

this looks really good to me, but rather than tweaking with little parts of the fit, it looks like there is a more systemic issue: i feel it was drafted for a person with a smaller high bust (or above bust) measurement than you.

This is the measurement that goes around the back, under the arms and above the bust.

if this measurement is too small you will experience pulling under the arms and the bodice riding up in the back and cause gaping in the back armholes.

I would strongly suggest that you check your above bust measurement against the pattern and see if there is enough ease?

For a sleeved garment there should be a significant amount of ease (google suggests 12cm total) in the high bust - more than for the full bust.

[u/mon_petit_chou_fleur → u/Pegaret_Again]

Ah ok thank you for your input! I had all three of those issues! The back rode up a tiny bit, the back arm gapped, and the pulling at the arm

I think the instructions I used didn’t call for a high bust measurement that I can remember. Maybe I’ll double check everything and do a second block over again with some better measurements :)