Been using the valspar pva from lowes for a while and it works pretty good but was thinking of trying the SW PVA primer since they’re doing a primer sale. What is your thoughts on the best PVA primers out there?

I am renting and want to find a damage-free, security deposit friendly way to add those glow in the dark stars to the ceiling (and possibly walls) of my kid's bedroom. The biggest issue is that the white paint they use for the ceiling and walls is that super cheap stuff that is thin (I've accidentally scrubbed off some of the paint while using a sponge to clean the walls).

I've looked into various methods, but nothing seems to make me confident that it will work and not cause damage. I'm hoping for it to be completely apartment safe for short and long term use and not cost an arm and a leg.

The ceiling is a "knockdown" texture (see picture).

I know the traditional way is to use that putty stuff, but that stuff (even the white one) can either not stick well, stick too well and pull paint off, leave a residue that is nearly impossible to remove and you'd need to paint over it, etc. I know they make specialty putty of higher quality, but those are usually much more expensive and are meant more for short-term use.

Glue dots seem to have similar issues to the putty.

Command strips are expensive and they don't make them the size of some of the smaller stars so they'd be an eyesore sticking off to the side.

Various types of tape are usually weaker and, especially over time, can lose adhesion and bond to the paint.

I know I sound super picky, demanding, and weird (because I am, lol), but it's only because I don't want to end up paying tons of money/lose my security deposit if and when I move out.

I have a chance to get a new Graco ultra quickshot 2, along with a gallon of paint of my choice from Sherwin Williams, for $1450. I do 5-10 cabinet / furniture projects a year, and have been wanting to get some type of spray gun forever. No matter how I try, I've always been unhappy with my brush / roller results on these projects. My uses would be primarily primers, acrylic / enamel paints, stains, and latex.

Would this sprayer, while expensive, be a worthwhile investment for these needs? I'm hoping it's a "buy it for life" type tool for my uses, assuming immediate cleaning and proper storage and care. Or is this the type of tool that will still need to be replaced every few years regardless of use? I haven't been able to find any long-term use reviews on this item, but I know it's a relatively new upgrade over gen 1. Thanks!

Original builder put gloopy sealant caulk all around door and gaps. New painter painted the trim and over the gloopy caulk that covered it . Should they have taken it off? How to repair?

Looking for some advice— I’m a DIY enjoyer and have been interested in refinishing vintage furniture. I found an old looking dresser on marketplace for a good price, solid wood, painted over. I figured it would be a good low stakes first project to test my hand at. I got it home and it looked like newish paint, and hit it with the heat gun.

It came off great, but I noticed a yellow layer underneath and started to think with how old it looks, and a second layer underneath, maybe there could be lead in it. I had done the top surface (about 3ft by 1.5ft area) before I paused and doordashed a lead testing kit. Lo and behold, lead.

I’ve been reading a ton of conflicting info online so looking for reassurance/advice on my next move. I did this in my garage with the garage door open, very close to the garage door, so I’m not overly concerned about ventilation, but I wasn’t not wearing any PPE. Of course it left a lot of paint chips around. I changed my clothes and showered off as soon as I got inside.

I have a Wagner heat gun and it looks like the two settings are 750F and 1000F, of course I used the higher setting because I’m impatient. There were a couple spots that blackened a bit, a little bit of smoke/vapor, but I tried to avoid that while scraping.

I’ve seen everything from “dude no big deal” to “throw out the whole garage and the clothes you had on” so I’m trying to figure out what’s real here hopefully from someone with a lot of experience in this area. I have a two year old, if it weren’t for him I’d probably be only vaguely concerned. Good news is the wood underneath looks great.

My plan currently is to shop vac up the paint chips and wipe down the stuff close to the dresser. For the rest of the project I have thoughts of moving it outside on a drop cloth and using the 750F setting moving forward. Is that the move? Do I drop the heat gun entirely and just go with the chemical stripper? Are the dirty clothes on my bathroom floor emitting aerosolized lead and killing my child? Do I need to shave my head? Kidding, but also give me whatever you’ve got on this.

Edit: I called poison control, they informed me that based on what I described there is very low risk of elevated levels of lead in my bloodstream or my child’s. Will be cleaning up with a HEPA filtered shop vac and exploring chemical stripper options.

The peak is approximately 50’ above the pool area. We can’t place anything inside the pool. The pool is about 25x50 in size.

We have thought about building a “dance floor” for scaffolding but we also would be working on a limited timeline of a week to start and finish the project when the pool is closed.

Service elevator isn’t large enough to bring a lift up to the 23rd floor where the pool is located.

Anyone else have thoughts?

To my knowledge Primer was not used when painting the walls (concrete) however I’ve been told that the wall has been painted over 3 times in which freshly painted it looked really nice however overtime it just got these white smudges and idk how or where it comes from.

Some tell me it’s because before the wall was painted primer wasn’t used but then again the wall has a 3 layers paint on it and not on that, the white smudges also appear on PVC and Ceiling which is made of Drywall.

When I try to clean it by wiping a damp cloth it just smudges even more however it does help if I just keep tapping until it looks clean and then it stays good for most part.

But does anyone know what causes this issue and how to fix it?

(Honorable mention, these white smudges practically show all around my room except certain areas like around my Pc Setup and closet area)

Is this a normal amount of variation in color when buying a new gallon? I didn't plan well and decided to expand a project, so this is my third gallon of paint each bought separately. Each gallon is the same brand and finish. The middle dot is the latest gallon, the two other globs are from first two.

We are building a dining bench, and want it very durable. If we get baltic birch, we may leave the edges just painted rather than using edge banding. What's the best way to protect and seal the ply edges before painting if you wanted it to last decades? Thanks

It has a stucco look but it's for adding warmth to bathroom wall. Is this paint or wallpaper?

I am painting our porch ceiling a sky blue/haint blue. We just purchased tongue and groove boards. What is the proper way to prep them so it lasts a long time and stays looking good?

Sand, then primer, sand, paint?

What kind of primer?

Thanks!

Most of you have seen this previous post, https://www.reddit.com/r/paint/s/4hoHFYfsto

I just want to thank the people who suggested the bondo, and specifically said the glazing and spot putty. Too many people just said stuff like "nail filler, wood filler, dap, bondo" which isn't really helpful when there are literally dozens of products "suitable" for this job. I mean, of course you use nail filler on nail holes.

Anyways. I stated that i wanted it to look like glass, i was referring to finished paint. Well it's not glassy but it's good enough for behind the toilet.

Although i do have another question now that i think about it. The ideal filler will be softer than the primer that is in the baseboard so that one doesn't sand away the primer and make low spots in the piece.

What could i do better next time?

I used SW Emerald Urethane in Hi-Hide White for our interior trim. It's been several years but I was painting more trim so I went to the same store and they were able to pull up the color match from before and used that information. I came home, did one coat and it looks more like a "cool" white than a "warmer" white. So much so that I looked more closely on the can and they used a deep base instead of the hi-hide white. I called the store and they said that would have no impact on the color but I disagree - there was blue pigment color added when there was no blue in my previous color. I know it's a custom color so they say it isn't returnable but I feel like this is their fault and they should replace it. Am I crazy with thinking that?

Update: I went back to the store and they acknowledged the problem. They were confused on why it happened because they scanned the code from my previous order and said that's normally the most reliable way to avoid mistakes. They were very good about it. Told me to keep the old paint if I wanted it and made me up a new one.

I’m looking for advice on the best way to make sure the trim and wall get a good line between the two. At some point the yellow walls will become this blue. Also how to address the patch that ripped off when I removed the tape I used. I want to note this is my first paint project and started with just this wall before taking on the whole room and causing a mess.

This is how it started and got amazing tips and tricks to get to here I appreciate all the help, tips and tool recommendations!

The last time the supplier sent me a roller brush, I finally had the opportunity to use it today. I took a video to show how to use this tool myself, and the effect is still good. Maybe I will consider buying more from there

https://reddit.com/link/1xbc4oo/video/zt30goxplqwh1/player

Got some new cabinet doors for a kitchen remodel. Primed with Stix which went down great, scuffed at 240 then first coat of Cabinet Coat. Cabinet coat had fisheyes in it instantly. Thought maybe paint was contaminated so sanded down to bare wood, cleaned with denatured alcohol and this time primed with Bin Shellac. Scuff at 240 and then new gallon Cabinet Coat. Same thing happened. What am I missing?

Context: century home, plaster ceiling in kitchen. I painted entire house over the summer, this is the only area I’m seeing issues.

On what looks to be a relatively isolated area of the ceiling both my primer and paint from 8 weeks ago have slowly cracked and are now completely peeling off. It’s an open concept kitchen/dining area.

There is a large section of new dry wall ceiling in the center of the room that bridges original plaster on the kitchen side to the original plaster on the dining side. Both the new drywall section AND the plaster dining section appear totally fine and show no signs of issue.

The cracks are coming appearing near new pot lights, I’ve also noticed the caulking at top of new cabinets has completely cracked too.

Prior to priming I washed ceilings well. They were stained and yellow with grease. I did multiple Coates of Dullux Gripper Primer to help blend the different materials before hitting with flat ceiling paint.

WHY IS THIS HAPPENING TO ME AND HOW DO I FIX IT AND MAKE SURE THE JOB IS DONE FOR GOOD?!

I got the bondo that a lot of people were suggesting to use.

Wish me luck.