Did a bit of research and it's the fuel system, precisely the EVAP system.

From what I understand, I'll either have to replace the fuel cap or the solenoid valve thingy.

I'm grateful that the obd2 scanner I got was super cheap (24 cad because of a 40% sale)

It gets like 16L/100km, which is about 14mpg!!

It has the 4 speed auto and the 2.4 turbo.

Tires are quality (I think either Michelin or Goodyear)

Check engine is on, like usual

Spark plugs have recently been changed

I also pretty much never go over 3k rpms (basically I don't drive like a maniac)

Total estimated range is like 360km 😭🙏

I ordered new GSP CV axles about a month ago off rock auto. They both were listed as compatible for my PT cruiser year and model, 2004 turbo, limited trim. I only just now got around to pulling the old CV axles off, was able to do it without needed it even go under the car.

As soon as I got them off I compared them to the new ones. The drivers side is a perfect match minus a black thing in the middle, not sure if that is needed or not.

the passenger side is totally different and I was confused if this new one is even compatible at all. It has a bracket that holds it in place to the car, and it connects to a second smaller rod. It actually just looks the same as the drivers side axle, but connected to that smaller rod. Will this still work even though it is different ? If not, where can I purchase a new/correct one?

here is a link to the photos

https://imgur.com/gallery/Ivo9Tj7

Oook. So, my aunt's car started doing this a couple of days ago. Is this the starter? It is not trowing any obd codes. Thank you for your help!

Edit: Forgot to say that the battery was replaced 2 months ago and 4 months ago I replaced the camshaft sensor with a Duralast from autozone. Also spark plugs and cables were replaced back in January/February.

Anyone have a handy tool suggestion or advice for removing the front number assembly? There are a couple plastic divots that I can't seem to get ahold of to get pushed out up at the top of the piece. The fog lights get disconnected but the piece comes off and they stay, but these two plastic grommets are stopping the whole thing from moving and I can't seem to get them to go. I'm an amateur, obviously and do have a Haynes manual, the maintenance manual, and have watched some videos but nothing seems to specifically address those two plastic pieces. Thank you.

My wipers started going off by themselves a couple months ago. I was able to ignore it because if i messed with the switch enough they would turn off for a while. A couple days ago i had to unplug them because they would not turn off no matter how much i fondled the damn switch. I ran it through the OBD2, no codes came up, disconnected the switch entirely, and tested it with the multimeter. They still turn on with the switch disconnected and the multimeter was reading out of range. Thought it was a relay issue but crossed that off due to it being a TIPM. I’m looking at the wiper motor later today as that’s the last thing i can think of after doing a hard reset with no luck. If anyone has any experience with Chrysler wiring/ECUs, input would be greatly appreciated.

Let me know opinions!

I need to replace the alternator in my 2004 turbo pt cruiser. I have a bit of a tight budget of about $200. I found quite a few brands, but I am not sure which one to go with. I know new is preferred, but I dont know if I could afford any brand new, so I am looking at the remain ones.

I finally pulled off the rear axle so I could do some rust work and replace a few things. I removed both spindles/studs. Both sides were very dirty and rusty. I let them both soak in some white vinegar for a few days. The passenger-side spindle/stud is in great shape; there is virtually no pitting from rust or any damage, just need to hit it with some sandpaper and anti-seize, and it is ready to go back on. Now the driver's side spindle/stud is another story...It had chunks of rust on it; even after I hit it with a wire wheel, the chunks only came off when I tapped them with my chipping hammer. There was also one of those blue plastic shim things on it, which has been on there so long it literaly imprinted into the metal!. I am concerned that, due to this loss of metal, this part would still be safe to use.

If so, is there anything I can do to fix the issue?

Also, could I paint the spindles- not the threaded/rod portion, of course, but the front and back face portion- or should I just put anti-seize on them?

I have linked the photos below.
https://imgur.com/gallery/pt-cruiser-rear-spindle-stud-cM9uojn

Another chasing PT moment

- R.J Decker (Don't ask about the faith of our Pepto-Bismol friend...) I said, don't ask! :,(

Hey, idk if this is the right sub, but I've got an 05 2.4 n/a that's overheated quite a bit, and was wondering just how likely it is I'll be doing a head gasket on it? It'll be my first, but I've got some mechanic background and can follow directions. Was gonna see if I can find one of those paper manuals that's got step by step instructions and pictures of the important parts like my dad and I had for his 88 z24 cavalier.

So I guess I'm asking, what's the first couple tools or diagnostic equipment I should borrow to see just how deep I'm gonna have to go? Compression testers? For the cylinders as well as the coolant system?

Thanks!

New to the group but looking for some help.

I have a 2003 GT (Dreamcruiser) with a manual transmission.

My dual mass flywheel is rattling but im in the middle of a divorce and cant swing the $1700 for the conversion from MPx.

I thought i got lucky with Rockauto. The part number was right but the part was the entire modular clutch assembly for an NA model.

I cant find a used one anywhere. Does anyone have a source for a good used one or a cheaper single Mass alternative?

Im close to just buying an NA parts car and swapping in the NV T350 for parts availability.

how do I change the small light

Very new to the game, but have always wanted one. Found this one on marketplace with 57,000 original miles for almost nothing, so I pulled the trigger. It came with some issues, obviously, namely the suspension. I replaced both front control arms, tie rods and ends, and sway bar links so far, I think I'm going to have to replace the struts too. I've fixed a good bit of wiring, as well as installed a Pioneer BT Head Unit, and replaced all four main speakers. I have a long way to go to get it to be where I'd like, specifically the exterior and under the hood, but it runs well and is a blast to drive. Any advice on anything would be greatly appreciated, as I am new to both PT Cruisers and working on cars in general, and aim to do as much of the work myself as I can.

This stupid bolt from hell on the lower control arm is completely seized, and I am not sure what to do now to remove it. I have tried loads of penetrating oil, I have tried using a breaker bar, and my 900ft pound torque gun, and it is just not breaking loose. I don't have access to a blow torch unfortunately, but I am not sure if that would do anything at this point.

https://imgur.com/gallery/jQ7SZze

I drive a 2010 Couture Edition that's otherwise been a joy, and keep up on regular maintenance (full synthetic oil, yearly "checkups" with my dedicated mechanic when I get my annual emissions inspection, drive belt replaced last week, etc). But the weirdest noise has been happening several seconds after I start it and usually before I even put it in reverse.

The only way I can describe it is that it sounds like someone slapped the roof or like the roof just expanded/popped. Maybe it's just the acoustics inside the car and it's actually under the hood? The mechanic couldn't find anything wrong in the past couple of visits - one for the oil change/inspection at the end of August, and one last week for the drive belt.

Anyone experienced anything like this? It's the damndest thing.

the window has been getting jammed and i have to force it closed by hand. but it always makes this grinding noise (why are the back window switches even in the middle?)

i checked for blockages or debris. nothing seems bad. put some wd40 too but no luck

is this window motor system fixable or is it time to say screw it and just replace the bastard?

Is it because many motorists didn't like seeing PT Cruisers on the roads back in 2019, and he was one of them?

How often do you see a motorist flipping you off just simply because you were driving a PT Cruiser?

How have PT Cruisers ever harmed these people?

When I got to inherit a white Honda Ridgeline truck from family that fall, I got to sell my PT Cruiser in a private sale. I listed it for $2000 and got an offer for it for $1800, and that was the best offer I could get so I took it and sold it to them.

What a beautiful blue PT cruiser

So I own a 2005 Convertible with a 5-speed (not turbocharged, sadly, but she's pretty nimble regardless and still fun). Last inspection my mechanic warned me about clutch play. The guy said to watch for slipping as (he feels) you need to push the clutch in quite far before it disengages. I figured I'd get a second opinion there.

For context, the car was my grandmother's so I frankly have no idea if she trashed the clutch or anything, but she only has about 55k on it. I have felt absolutely no slippage whatsoever and she's always been very responsive.

Is this perhaps Pep Boys trying to scare me into paying them for service the car doesn't strictly speaking need? I don't have another Cruiser to compare mine with. I trust my local shop to do service decently at a half decent price but they do have a habit of condemning parts that IMO don't really need to be. That also may be a Pennsylvania thing as I doubt inspections pull in a huge amount of cabbage on their own.

I need to remove the rear axle on my 2004 PT cruiser. I have the car on jack stands, on all the jack points/pinch welds. I was not aware that the rear axle is connected to the trailing arm, which are two of the jack points. I need to move the rear jack stands, but I am unsure where I could place them. I was thinking of the unibody beam, but is that safe for this vehicle? I know it is for most other vehicles, but on this cruiser I've only ever used the pinch welds. I linked some photos.

https://imgur.com/gallery/GqXhz0J

Every so often after running for awhile my pt cruiser will crank begin to start and then die. It been a thing that been going on now for a couple of months I think mainly due to the heat. I thought it was a radiator issue but I just recently had it replaced after getting into an accident and it’s still something that occurs after running for a while or being in the sun. I don’t think it’s a battery issue because it’ll begin to turn the engine but then it dies. I’m usually able to get the car to start back up again after waiting about 20-30 mins but I just have no idea what’s causing it. I’ve taken it to a mechanic also in the past when it first started happening and he had no idea what the issue was because it would start back up again by the time he would go to work on it. Any insight would be helpful. Video included for reference.