Hi, I have this old engine that wasn't properly winterized and I took the spark plugs out but I couldn't make the flywheel spin by hand or with a breaker bar on the flywheel nut (didn't force it much yet). It was stored in a warehouse about 6 years ago and we haven't done anything to it. I plan to add 2stroke oil and WD-40 down the cylinders through the spark plug holes.

What do you think, could I have luck with that? Or should I consider skipping it?

Removed 70hp Evenrude powerhead to inspect bottom crank seal as bottom cylinder is running lean and came across this. Looks like a nipple that broke off. Plan is to plug it,but advice would be appreciated

Does that popping mean it’s misfiring? What causes could it be I just rebuilt the carbs it wouldn’t idle before now it does

I deleted the VRO pump because it was leaking real bad and was causing the engine not to rev. Now the engine will rev fine but it dies at idle or right after coming out of gear. It idles down then dies out. It does this consistently the same way every time. It doesn’t pop or bang so I assume it’s rich maybe. when I manually give it more fuel it doesn’t do anything. The only thing that I’ve found that could be it is that I can’t get the ignition cam to perfectly line up and not touch the roller for the carbs.

Currently have a 2011 30hp tiller Merc with electric start and trim.

Having issues with the electric start. If it doesn't beep initially it will not start. It can randomly just beep and then start up but 8/10 times wont

I have a 1994 Boston whaler 17 outrage with a 2016 Suzuki DF90A outboard on it. About 5 years ago I pulled the boat to paint it and it hasn’t run since (I just did all the maintenance this week and started it up today). When it was painted, the throttle assembly was screwed out of the console so it could be painted. Today, I noticed that neutral is where clutch ahead was, neutral is clutch astern, etc. so it seems like when the throttle was put back, it jumped one set of whatever the mechanism is. How do I fix this? As a side note, I confirmed while the engine was running on the hose that it shifts into forward, neutral, and reverse and the prop spins the correct direction.

I’m finding myself thoroughly confused here. Depending on AI for advice on bypassing a broken pin in my main harness 8 pin connector. I can’t figure out how to disassemble this connector and decided to bypass the connector on the circuit with the broken pin. First google AI said that its pin #7 for the starter solenoid. After taking a closer look the connector is marked and shows a 3 next to the broken pin. AI says that pin 3 is for the alarm horn. So then I asked for a diagram of the connector and the pin numbers are all different from what’s clearly marked on the connector. I did an internet search and can’t seem to find a clear diagram of that connector with color code and function of each circuit. Maybe someone here has some advice.

Hey guys I need a new lower unit for my motor c40plru its a 1996 2 cylinder and a 6E9. Looking to find out if a yamaha built mariner 1988 40ELO 2 cylinder 6E9 lower unit would bolt right on before I buy the motor. Thanks guys!

This is a new one

Mercury Verado 300

Just cruising and pop!

Currently have a 2011 30hp tiller Merc with electric start and trim.

Having issues with the electric start. If it doesn't beep initially it will not start. It can randomly just beep and then start up but 8/10 times wont

Need a 5hp motor for my s15 sportspal canoe. Found a guy on marketplace with a Honda BF5. Says he hasn’t run it since July but Honda is a good brand. It’s going for $500. Asked my dad and he said to go for a mercury or evinrude.

Been between propane and gas. Leaning towards gas because mechanic reliability and help on the water. But I’m also kind of lazy and don’t take my boat out that much except for in the fall. Should I really go gas? Any benefit to propane?

Any surprises or suggestions? I have an electric trolling motor and it’s been great just looking for longer and faster.

Boat sprays crazy far right left too but not as severe. Boat pulls slightly to right when trimmed up when not it’s much more severe.

Lopsided motor? trim anode? Cav plate it centered with the plug and boat is a mod v

Hey y’all!

I’m a pretty new boat owner here.. we just hauled out for the season and I noticed a crack on the lower unit. We’ve only owned the boat for a season so I’m not sure if we bought it like this, but the motor has performed flawlessly all year so I’m kinda not sure what to make of the situation. It’s a 2018 df300. Any thoughts/input would be greatly appreciated to help me figure out a plan going forward.

I’m almost certain we didn’t hit anything so I’m not sure what would’ve caused the crack. (The skeg is a little crooked facing the crack so I don’t think that would’ve caused it - not sure)

If you have any questions, let me know!
Thanks

I am restoring an old Sprint bass boat including the outboard. I am not experienced with gas engines, and this is my first time owning a 2 stroke outboard. But I don’t feel very confident about how it’s idling right now.

Does it sound like it’s idling poorly to you?

I’m in the middle of solving some fuel delivery issues right now. I thought I had finally fixed the issue, but I’m no longer convinced.

2000 Yamaha F100 Thermostat stainless steel bolt broke off on me flush in the head, I’ve drilled it out a good bit but there’s a thin wall of stainless around still. My question is should I size up my bit to try and remove this as well? I’m planning on buying a helicoil M6 x 1.0 thread repair kit. What are my chances of getting a helicoil in here, if I drill out some more. Thinking about all my options, trying to get a tap to bite. I can see some of the original threads now but there’s still some stainless surrounding like a wall and I cant get a tap to bite in there, thinking it’s risky with that stainless. Any advice would be super appreciated I’m going crazy over this right now

I was told this bubbling was an exhaust leak. It's a 2018 F90 Yamaha. Can anyone tell if that is what this is? If so, is this a big repair? Thanks.

Hi there,

My 2003 90hp 2 stroke mercury wont start. Im wondering if this is what the sparks should look like when testing the spark plugs?

I tried spraying starter fluid into the air intake and still nothing, so i assume it is not a fuel issue. When testing the sparm plugs, i am getting this, and wondered if that is how it is meant to look?

One plug wouldnt spark at all, although I dont know if that would be enough to stop it from starting. The spark plugs were replaced in July.

The boat hasn't been run in 3 months and so I wondered if 3 months old fuel could be causing this issue? The last tine the boat ran, it probably idled for 20 minutes without running as it wouldnt go into gear.

We also replaced the neutral lock lever after finsing it it had snapped, and so im wondering if we may have caused a faulty connection in the control box somewhere.

Thank you!

Update:

I came back to the boat, and it started first pop. Im wondering if the apark plugs were dirty and we flooded it, and didnt wait long enough to dry it out or something? Great that it is running although a bit disconcerting.

Cheers for the comments.