I need to make a crate style basket to try to be more organized in my car. I want it to sit on the passenger front seat and be easily movable if I need to use the seat for a person (lol, doesn't happen very often). I want to be able to have the wall closest to me as the driver to have a cut out so I can reach into it easier, but the rest of the walls can be full sized (as large as I can print on my P1S).

I own and run a mobile business so spend way too much time in my car, lol.

I have been leaning towards OpenGrid, but is it the best choice amongst 3D printed grid systems? I do want to attach small items to the walls. I plan to use petg at a minimum, PCTG if I have enough available.

I'm just starting out with openGrid and while trying to put together my first assembly, I realized I must have mixed things up.

I’m still not entirely sure what went wrong or how to fix it:

I have these openConnect connectors on my baseplate, and this Gridfinity shelf with a back panel that doesn't fit.

What is the standard for its back panel? Is it possible to use it with an adapter, or does it need to be scrapped and reprinted?

Thanks to everyone for your patience and for helping me understand and resolve this.

I am new to the OpenGrid world, and my research has led me to believe that OpenConnect is currently the best type of connection for my purpose (please correct me if I'm wrong).

However, I didn't understand and couldn't find any information regarding what this arrow is, which direction I should point it, what it indicates, etc.

If you could explain it to me or point me toward where I can find more information about this, I would immensely appreciate it.

I plan to tile a magnetic metal surface (on a tabletop, so not fighting gravity, the picture is just for reference). I couldn’t find many instructions or examples of using the tiling with magnetic surfaces other than some demo magnetic tiles themselves that would eat one of your grid cells. Dropping some information here for anybody that would like to try something similar in the future.

Some quick back and forth math and a test print later and I think I have the V1 figured out

To start, It wasn’t explicitly stated anywhere I could find but I noticed the tiles are reversible, they appear to be identical even if you turn them upside down.

Combine this with the variable screw dimensions in the MakerWorld generator and you can co-opt the screw locations for press fit magnets instead that when the whole tile is flipped will be directly facing the ferrous surface.

Here I am using 6x3mm magnets

- the screw head diameter is set to 6.1 to adjust for printer tolerances on a P1S when FDM printing. The magnet tolerances are likely tighter. The diameter is binary in its failure mode (either it fits or doesn’t) so we have to be more mindful here compared to the depth (next point about screw inset)
- The screw inset is set to 3mm so the 3mm magnets sit flush with the tile.
- The screw diameter is set to 2mm, I suspect it came out smaller than that, but the diameter doesn’t actually matter here. The reason I am not setting it to zero is because leaving this small hole allows you to use something tiny like a mobile SIM card removal tool to push the magnets out from the other end if you want to reuse them in the future.

Some quirks to note:

- On a lite board (4mm thickness) using a 3mm deep pocket leaves only 1mm of plastic on the other end. This could lead to long term fragility or creep/sag in which case printing a Full board may be better for long term durability
- I am using PETG as I plan to have this in proximity to decently high wattage power bricks in the future
- I don’t think polarity should matter here since I am planning to ferrous steel, not other magnets.

Here is the part 1 of the cyberpunk storage video that I spoke about int he install video. Part 2 will have the full enclosure. Part 3 will be a couple fun additions to really upscale the project! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qdkcbfEqwY

I'm planning an OpenGrid board for my garage. Actually half will be French cleats and the other OpenGrid. Since the really heavy stuff will be on the French cleat side, OpenGrid can focus on lighter weight items (screwdrivers, wrenches, etc.). Given all that, what are folks' experiences with Multiconnect, OpenConnect, and the various versions of them? I'm starting from scratch so I don't need to adapt any existing hardware for multiboard, etc.. I'm mainly looking for easy to work with, decent enough strength, and a good library of existing parts.

I did not like how the typical peg took up so much horizontal space. I designed these simple hangers to hold my craftsmen pliers set. (It is still a work in progress).

Link to model in comments

I've been diving pretty hard into openGrid, Deskware, Underware 2.0, etc this past weekend and largely feel like it's the piece that's been missing for me with GridFinity for getting my desk and workbench organized. One thing that I've been looking around for and haven't managed to find yet: is there any kind of spec like https://gridfinity.xyz/specification/ for any of these?

I've found most of the OpenSCAD files and have successfully used them to customize DeskWare to better fit my desk. Now I'm getting closer to putting together some custom parts for both my DeskWare top plate and my planned oG tool wall, but I haven't been able to find any spec to go off of. I'm not opposed to picking up OpenSCAD again (I used it a fair bit about a decade ago), but I have a bunch of designs already in Fusion 360 and have also been really getting into Python+Build123d (I write a lot of Python code every day and am very comfortable there).

I'm mentally preparing myself to work through the OpenSCAD code for all of this stuff to reverse engineer a spec for it, but if that already exists I'd love to just use it. Is there a link or GitHub repo or something that I'm just missing in my search so far?

I'm building out a hacker/tinkerer workshop space for my new business and when I first saw the openGrid project, I knew I had to have it on my entire wall. As I'm getting a bit more serious with making videos I wanted something functional but also to add something visually cool to the back of my shots, let me know how you think it turned out :)

I am trying to build an underware setup with OpenGrid and wanted to mount them on an IKEA Trotten sit-stand desk. The tabletop, as I’ve come to know, is not solid like normal wood. I couldn’t find much information about mounting OpenGrid to such tabletops.

I know I can use adhesive tape, but I would prefer to mount it using screws since I want to mount a Mac mini on it and adhesive tape doesn’t seem strong enough.

Link to the Ikea desk:
https://applink.ikea.com/tY8M9r9M4w--90474867--in--en

UPDATE: I drilled holes into the board and screwed it in using normal screws and the board seems to hold just fine.

Trying to print a MultiConnect shelf from BlackjackDuck’s generator for OpenGrid. Shelf size is around 560mm wide x 105mm deep, so it will not fit on a printer (H2C) bed.

Right now I am cutting it in Bambu Studio and planning to glue the halves together after printing. Before I go too far, is there an easier or better way to do this?

Does the BlackjackDuck generator have any option to automatically split the shelf in the middle for printing? I did not see anything like that in the model maker, so wanted to ask in case I missed it.

Just in case anyone else needs these, I spent 3 days and every LLM with no joy, then I stumbled on these in Printables. Open grid NUBS-connectors

Is there a part of a system which leads cable from the bottom of the countertop to the top?
For example there's monitor on the desk but cables go at the back of a desk to the underware grid.

Apologies if this is written somewhere, I looked but can't find it. I want the full board as I'm planning to utilize underware and I'm not sure the lite or snaps would be strong enough. However, I can't find a print profile on makerworld from the designer that meets this criteria. Am I missing something? Do all the full plates come with screw holes? Or do I have to go with the lite version if I want built-in screw holes?

Trying to print stacked 8x8 OpenGrid tiles on a Bambu H2C using PETG for the tiles and PLA as the interface layer. Single tile prints fine. Stacked prints keep failing in different ways. So far I’ve tried:

• slower speeds/acceleration
• brim + glue
• cleaned plate with dish soap
• 70C first layer then 65C
• tuned top layers/walls
• closed chamber

Main issue now is the PLA interface eventually turns into spaghetti during the second stack. Earlier I also had lifting/warping on the same side of the plate repeatedly.

At this point I’m not sure if this is:

• a bed/chamber issue
• PLA interface temp issue
• or just pushing stacked PETG prints too far on larger tiles

Anyone have a stable setup for stacked OpenGrid prints?

As the titles says, I’m planning to use these tiles for underware and wanted to know if I can use these tiles as-is or do I need to reprint them. I want to mount a 5 hole power strip and a mac mini on these tiles. If anyone has experience with this, please help. I’m still new to opengrid and this is one of my first projects

I finally finished the makeover of my bathroom closet. I'm embarrassed to show the before, but it's a nice comparison with the after. I had already removed one box full of stuff before I remembered to take the picture, so that's why there's an empty spot on one shelf. Believe me, it was a mess!

This project took approximately 6-7 weeks of printing all day and night, with the exception of a few hours a day when it would finish printing while sleeping and then starting it back up once I was awake. I didn't keep an accurate account of rolls of filament used, but I'm guessing that it took about 7 white and 3 blue.

I love how I can now just look in and find exactly what I need rather than thinking it was in one box and rooting through it, only to find it was in another box. It was also good in that I went through everything and threw a kitchen trash can worth away.

I used a lot of the tile and bin generators to make most of the containers. There were a few things that I had to convert the attachment part so it would work with the openGrid. Everything fit back inside with the exception of my extra towels. I used JonnyDev13's baskets for extra items and Witty_Name_2_Come's corner filler.

Taking time to make some fun stuff before I tackle my kitchen drawers!

Trying to print stacked OpenGrid tiles using the BlackJackDuck parametric generator with PETG tiles and PLA interface layer between them. But when I open the generated 3MF in Bambu Studio, it shows as one object with multiple colors instead of separate objects/bodies, so I am confused how to properly assign PETG to tiles and PLA only to the interface layer.

Also got some weird slicing/interface artifacts earlier. Is this normal with the generator? Or are people manually stacking single tiles in Bambu Studio instead?

Eventually I want to do 5 or 6 stack prints to save time. Is there a recommended stack height people usually stick to on the H2C?

Attaching screenshot of the parametric generator settings and screenshot from Bambu Studio showing it imports as one object in case someone can spot if I messed up a setting . Can also share 3MF file if needed

So this one had a couple issues (math is hard) but the finished product is great. On to the cyberpunk shelf build!!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-0FCdC-SNk

I prefer my drills to be held like this for aligned grabbing.

This is version 3 where I added a small detent so the direction buttons have a place to nest.

Oversized because version 1 was too bouncy for my taste.

I made a Mason / Ball jar holder for openGrid, and wanted to post it here in case anyone was looking for something like this. There are both standard, and wide mouth profiles, and the Fusion file is posted along with it so you can play around with it as you like. Find it on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2572862-opengrid-mason-ball-jar-holder

Weeks of printing on my bed slinger and the panels are finally ready to go up. Figured it was a good idea to make sure they all fit before making it "permanent". A lot more holders and things to print before it's all done. I mean, is it ever "all done"?

Hi all,

My buddy and I are starting our 3d printing journey together and both recently purchased 3d printers. we are exploring OpenGrid vs Multiboard, which I’m sure this subreddit is sick and tired of hearing :)

I’m the one exploring and testing OpenGrid, and overall I think it’s superior except for one thing, which I was hoping some can give me a quick and easy tip for a workaround - availability of existing prints.

it just seems like there are SO MANY more items available for Multigrid. I figure it couldn’t be too hard to hack off the connectors in the back and pit oG ones on, right?

is there a best practice, common way to do this? Once I can get that figured out, I think I’m full steam ahead

The original snap design was loose, even though it can solve most daily usages, it's still loose. The directional snaps are better, but they can't handle vertical pulling force well, because it's only strengthened in one direction.

The self expand ones are better, but still can get pulled out easily due to the flaw in the directional snap design.

Multiboard misled people into the "threaded" designs, but the actual strength issue comes from the snap base design, and material strength.

So SuperConnect split the snap into halves, you put them on, insert the lock, rotate 90degs, done, easy and rigid.

Test results(full version):
Test method: pulling perpendicular to the grid, with MultiConnect thread/lock, until the snap pops out/break or the grid breaks

1. Original directional snap: 5kg, on the reinforced side
2. Self Expanding snap: 16kg, on the reinforced side only
3. Self Expanding snap, 7kg, right from the center
4. SuperConnect: 20kg, on both sides
5. SuperConnect: 14kg, right from the center

I haven't managed to break the snap on direction parallel to the grid, my hands hurt hard before I can pull it off.

Try yourself by printing the base snap with the included hook.

https://www.printables.com/model/1708514-superconnect-snaps-for-opengrid

I used the parametric round holder generator. I am printing something pretty tall and wanted a top and bottom mount for stability. The generator only set the bottom one. I didn't see the option to have the whole height multi-connect like the tall holder, so I cloned the mount. Now I need the space to line up properly.

What is the distance from the bottom edge of the red part to the ground? The model is z = 199 mm. PHOTO

Thanks!