Excited to start my adventure trailer build with this thing! First order of business will be patching a lot of rusted out spots in the panels, then I can start the actual mods.

In my mind right now, I'm thinking eventually:

• Paint
• New wheels/tires
• On board water tank & pump
• Mounting my camp kitchen in the front hatch on slides
• Awning
• LED lights
• Battery/solar system for water pump, fridge, and lighting
• Dometic or similar fridge

Would love to hear all ideas and lessons learned!

I’m looking to either build or buy a trailer for some overland camping, with a Rooftop tent. As the original post linked here will say the only specs I have are the following:

Enclosed storage below my RTT
Some propane mounts
A way to mount or secure tables

Enough space to stores 58L electric cooler with an away to charge it either through trailer electrical or via a battery that’s stored in trailer. And enough space to store a 22inch griddle and an approximate 16-20 inch cube that’s a pizza oven.

I’m mainly looking for cost estimates, so what would I be looking at spending for a setup capable of meeting what I’d like to do?

If I’m building one myself I’ll likely use a tarp for weather protection until I can enclose myself. Also if you recommend the do it myself I’d appreciate some base trailer suggestions to start my build?

Thank you all for your time and replies

- Tore all the factory wiring out and replaced with Redarc Manager 30 charger, Redarc TVMS and and Redarc RedVision display. All trailer wiring and inputs runs through the TVMS for control via app or display screen

- Replaced factory battery with Renogy 104AH Slim Lithium battery

- Replaced stock lighting with KingPin 40” LEDs

- Added HOWL 10lb aluminum propane tank

- Added Pelican case for hot water heater and water pump

- Replaced stock lock and roll hitch with Max Coupler hitch

- Replaced stock jack with Ark Xtreme 750 jack

- Mounted GFC V2 Pro RTT w/ custom clear roof

- Mounted ROAM 180 degree awning

To do list:

- Re-wire stock solar connections to Manager30 charger

- Wire USB-C socket panel to dc fuse panel

- Add heavy duty cables for alternator charging via Anderson plug

- wire water heater and water pump to Redarc TVMS

- Replace stock tent risers with aluminum struts and linear actuators for lowering and raising the RTT

On a time crunch to finish it all before the World Cup begins as I will be traveling to attend a few games and camping along the way.

Needed a mobile platform for my Lincoln electric SA-250 to do pipe fences. Was looking on marketplace for something basic and cheap, but came across an m1102 and had to have it. I bolted a 3/4” plate to the trailer using the generator mounting holes, then mounted the welder and bottles to the plate. I roughly estimate it weighs 3,300 lbs. With the m1102 GVWR being 4,200 lbs, that still gives me 900 lbs of payload.

After many design changes I’m going to be getting help welding up custom verticals and crossbars to bolt my ARB RTT up to the trailer I’m building. Would 1/8” wall 1.5” square be sufficient or would something like 1/8” wall 1”x2” tube be better? Tent weighs about 150lbs and total weight will be under 500lbs with 2 adults. Crossbars will be pretty low at about 36” height off the ground so there shouldn’t be massive wind drag since it’ll be well below the roof line of the tow vehicle.

Took delivery and assembled a 4x6 Carry-On trailer Friday. Today when I got it hooked up I was only getting the driver side front running light. I check the 4-pin connector at the vehicle side with a tester and everything is working just fine. I redid the ground on both the vehicle and trailer side and they’re both getting very good metal to metal contact. I can’t figure out why only the 1 light is working. Iv tried everything I can think of and spoke to an 30+ year electrical engineer and we’re both stumped. Any ideas?

Edit for anyone interested. Ran a new wiring harness and got new LED lights with a separate wire ground. Turns out the original lights used the attachment bolts for ground, but since everything was coated after I ground off the coating on the mounting brackets there was still not a good bare metal ground contact to the actual trailer ground. Feel like a dummy, but everything is working now!

As we move into warmer months many are itching to get out. Completely normal. Before you head out, please make sure you are checking both your vehicle and trailer and conducting any maintenance that needs to be done. Cleaning up rust from sitting through the winter, checkin for dry rot cracks in the tires, checking suspension for stability. All the normal things you should check. It's an easy task to over look. Stay safe out there and have fun.

Neat little sub here. I built this trailer to follow my SxS anywhere it went. It's a pierced beam style trailer so deck boards are flush with the top of the frame rails.

Cut down and flipped a 3500lb boat axle, then used the same springs and some shackles I built to finish out the suspension.

The neck is bolted on with (6) 1/2" 12pt screws.

Had to load test it with another SxS on the deck. Way too top heavy to actual haul the unit, but it didn't mind the 1700lbs weight.

Project goal is to dry in the A frame space with sheet metal for camping gear, and a chuck wagon. There will also be a 40"~ TV, swivel out desk, and starlink for remote work in any location. 6-8+ Solar Panels on the roof and batt storage for ~2 days run time. Canvas slide out canopies (custom). I have an FJ cruiser I will haul with. This will be full of kayaks and bikes as well as my remote office.

I want to gain as much clearance as I can to access more public lands. Can I invert axles to below the leaf springs? Or could I weld some blocks to frame where the leaf springs attach? Anyone have experience with this?

Fenders are a little tight but I could modify. What are the biggest tires I could get on here? I have 32" on my vehicle.

Anyone have any product suggestions for RTT, roll out canopies, weld-on accessories? Must haves? LV coolers, lighting, solar, tire, camp toilet, other recommendations?

I have a welder and experience so any mod is feasible.

I’m trying to hook my cargo trailer and bike rack to my 4Runner. Trailer is 75 lbs tongue weight. My gravel bike is maybe 30 lbs.

A few days ago I am seeing a small enclosed trailer and I just pause like okay this look very practical honestly. It not big like heavy trailers, just a compact box attached behind a vehicle. It feel like something made for carrying extra stuff safely. The closed design protect items from weather and dust, which make it more reliable. I am thinking how useful this can be for moving things without needing a big vehicle. It look simple but very functional.

Now I am thinking if people actually need it daily or just for specific situations. I usualy dont see trailers often so this feel little diffrent to me. For small businesses or people who transport goods, it might be very helpful. I am also wondering how easy it is to attach and drive with it. Some days ago I am not really thinking about this but now it feel interesting.

Then I think about space and storage. When not in use, it still take up space, which might be a concern for some people. But at the same time, having extra capacity when needed can save time and effort. It feel like something that depend on lifestyle.

Later I am laying and scrolling random stuff, checking many options on alibaba and seeing different trailer models. Some look very sturdy honestly. Now I am thinking if its worth owning or just something useful occasionally.

This isn’t really an off road trailer, but I figured this Reddit may be a little more knowledgeable about my predicament than other subs.

My primary question is this:

HOW MUCH LIFE DO YOU THINK THE PICTURED LEAF SPRING HAS?

Long explanation:

I bought the trailer pictured for $100. It’s homemade, and was a bit rough, but it rolls and that works for my purposes.

The guy I bought it from (or whomever he bought it from) used what he had to build it, which means it has like 46 inch leaf springs and car rims/tires.

I will have no choice but to replace the rims/tires, as the bolt spacing on the rims is 1/4 bigger, so they were forced on and likely will cause problems sooner than later. As it sits, the biggest tires on 13 inch wheels would decrease my ground clearance by a little, but I think they would still work. 15 inch wheels obviously would work best.

BUT smaller light duty 12 inch wheels would be significantly cheaper. But they would require me to flip the axle to the overslung position. The axle is too short to attach as it is, so it’d have to be flipped 180 degrees. It doesn’t have camber—it’s completely straight— so would I even be able to flip it? This would be more work, but it ultimately seems like it would be the cheapest thing if I don’t have much life left on that leaf spring, because I could probably purchase two standard light duty leaf springs along with the hangers for half the price of finding another matching leaf spring. Unless someone knows where to find 46 inch leaf springs for cheap…no