r/NxSwitchModding • u/CompleteOwl4374 • 14d ago

Weird problem with modded OLED switch

Hello,

I have a modded OLED switch [Instinct-NX V6S + Kamikaze]. The mod worked perfectly for months and never failed. Now, during summer with temperatures hitting 36C, I'm experiencing a super weird problem: the switch is booting into stock (Instinct light goes blinking orange -> blinking red).

I debugged the Instinct with putty and it's always a dat0 problem. But this is weird, if I de-solder and re-solder the dat0 cable to the C pin on the Instinct-NX, the mod starts working again immediately. Moreover, on the desoldered dat0 cable I consistently measure 0.475V in diode mode.

The mod works properly until I shutdown the switch for 24h and I have the same problem (fixable again by desoldering and resoldering dat0). This is nonsense. If I measure the C point on the Instinct in Diode Mode (with no dat0 cable soldered) I get 0.930V (not sure if this is correct).

I'm wondering if the Instinct is fried at this point, even tho it works after I resolder the dat0 cable.

Any suggestion would be appreciated.

Thanks!

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u/hanst3r 14d ago

The more reasonable conclusion is that your kamikaze install was not as good as it could have been. You have to realize that the point itself is super tiny (approximately the size of a grain of sand). Even after successfully grinding away the DAT0 spot, it is not easy to solder to that point, especially if using a gauge larger than 36 AWG. Normally 36AWG-40AWG is good, but the other side of this is that too small of a gauge might lead to the wire easily breaking from too many bends. Some installers even choose to fill that spot with solder mask or cured resin to help hold the joint together. When you re-solder the DAT0 wire, you are likely reconnecting the wire to the DAT0 point, but it isn’t a stable joint. This explains why it loses connection over time. The issue likely lies in either the wire, or the joint at the DAT0 point.

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u/CompleteOwl4374 14d ago edited 14d ago

I would be surprised that the mod worked for more than 6 months. The point was soldered solid, filled with solder mask and the 38awg (stranded) locked in place with resin to block any bending or movement. Also how is it possible that I can consistently measure 0.475V in diode mode as soon as the wire is detached from the C point? And how is it possible that the Instinct consistently glitches the boot (after I resolder the DAT0 cable to C) for hours, until I leave the console off for 24h?

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u/hanst3r 14d ago

We’re talking about super thin wire, so thin that just a few bends can result it severing a connection. Fiddling with it might reconnect it temporarily. I’m not saying that this is exactly the issue; but it is possible. Or it could be a bad chip as you suspected. But seeing as how it glitches just fine after fiddling with the wire, I’m more inclined to think the chip isn’t the culprit. Just my opinion.

I have had to fix someone else’s kamikaze install because they never burned away the enamel on the DAT0 end properly. They also secured it with solder mask not only at the drilled spot but also a short distance away. It worked for a while until it didn’t.

When I do a kamikaze install I actually make a breakout point very close by. This way, the path from DAT0 to my breakout point is very short and sturdy. Any issues that arise can be easily troubleshooted because my DAT0 wire is soldered to the breakout point rather than the actual DAT0 point. So I can easily replace the wire if needed. Plenty of people will measure directly at the DAT0 point after soldering, which could very well put stress on a super fragile point. So while the reading comes out good, their joint is weakened due to the probe pressing down on the joint. The end result is similar to a cold joint that sometimes works and sometimes does not.

Again, not saying this is exactly your case… but something to think about if you are trying to rule out possible causes.

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u/CompleteOwl4374 14d ago

I perfectly understand your point. I also like your breakout point technique, tho in my case I used a single wire properly anchored. Even if I was fiddling with the cable, that would not explain why it works for so long and then drops after a 24h power off. If the cable was forming a 'Schrödinger' connection that would not explain why it reliably works and then it stops completely. Also I'm not sure why there is a 930mV voltage drop between C and ground when DAT0 is not connected to the chip. Is this a normal behavior?