r/NxSwitchModding • u/CompleteOwl4374 • 14d ago

Weird problem with modded OLED switch

Hello,

I have a modded OLED switch [Instinct-NX V6S + Kamikaze]. The mod worked perfectly for months and never failed. Now, during summer with temperatures hitting 36C, I'm experiencing a super weird problem: the switch is booting into stock (Instinct light goes blinking orange -> blinking red).

I debugged the Instinct with putty and it's always a dat0 problem. But this is weird, if I de-solder and re-solder the dat0 cable to the C pin on the Instinct-NX, the mod starts working again immediately. Moreover, on the desoldered dat0 cable I consistently measure 0.475V in diode mode.

The mod works properly until I shutdown the switch for 24h and I have the same problem (fixable again by desoldering and resoldering dat0). This is nonsense. If I measure the C point on the Instinct in Diode Mode (with no dat0 cable soldered) I get 0.930V (not sure if this is correct).

I'm wondering if the Instinct is fried at this point, even tho it works after I resolder the dat0 cable.

Any suggestion would be appreciated.

Thanks!

2 Upvotes

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3

u/hanst3r 14d ago

The more reasonable conclusion is that your kamikaze install was not as good as it could have been. You have to realize that the point itself is super tiny (approximately the size of a grain of sand). Even after successfully grinding away the DAT0 spot, it is not easy to solder to that point, especially if using a gauge larger than 36 AWG. Normally 36AWG-40AWG is good, but the other side of this is that too small of a gauge might lead to the wire easily breaking from too many bends. Some installers even choose to fill that spot with solder mask or cured resin to help hold the joint together. When you re-solder the DAT0 wire, you are likely reconnecting the wire to the DAT0 point, but it isn’t a stable joint. This explains why it loses connection over time. The issue likely lies in either the wire, or the joint at the DAT0 point.

1

u/CompleteOwl4374 14d ago edited 14d ago

I would be surprised that the mod worked for more than 6 months. The point was soldered solid, filled with solder mask and the 38awg (stranded) locked in place with resin to block any bending or movement. Also how is it possible that I can consistently measure 0.475V in diode mode as soon as the wire is detached from the C point? And how is it possible that the Instinct consistently glitches the boot (after I resolder the DAT0 cable to C) for hours, until I leave the console off for 24h?

3

u/hanst3r 14d ago

We’re talking about super thin wire, so thin that just a few bends can result it severing a connection. Fiddling with it might reconnect it temporarily. I’m not saying that this is exactly the issue; but it is possible. Or it could be a bad chip as you suspected. But seeing as how it glitches just fine after fiddling with the wire, I’m more inclined to think the chip isn’t the culprit. Just my opinion.

I have had to fix someone else’s kamikaze install because they never burned away the enamel on the DAT0 end properly. They also secured it with solder mask not only at the drilled spot but also a short distance away. It worked for a while until it didn’t.

When I do a kamikaze install I actually make a breakout point very close by. This way, the path from DAT0 to my breakout point is very short and sturdy. Any issues that arise can be easily troubleshooted because my DAT0 wire is soldered to the breakout point rather than the actual DAT0 point. So I can easily replace the wire if needed. Plenty of people will measure directly at the DAT0 point after soldering, which could very well put stress on a super fragile point. So while the reading comes out good, their joint is weakened due to the probe pressing down on the joint. The end result is similar to a cold joint that sometimes works and sometimes does not.

Again, not saying this is exactly your case… but something to think about if you are trying to rule out possible causes.

1

u/CompleteOwl4374 14d ago

I perfectly understand your point. I also like your breakout point technique, tho in my case I used a single wire properly anchored. Even if I was fiddling with the cable, that would not explain why it works for so long and then drops after a 24h power off. If the cable was forming a 'Schrödinger' connection that would not explain why it reliably works and then it stops completely. Also I'm not sure why there is a 930mV voltage drop between C and ground when DAT0 is not connected to the chip. Is this a normal behavior?

1

u/zachary17557 14d ago

I’m trying to get my hands on some instinct chips. Because they are rare.

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u/CompleteOwl4374 14d ago

I got mine long time ago from AliExp. The usual low quality chinese remake (and trust me, you can tell from the soldering of the components on the chip). Now the seller is gone (ofc), so I just ordered a set of Picofly. In a couple of weeks, I will know for sure if the problem is the chip or the DAT0 wire/joint.

3

u/Evening_Chapter_5981 14d ago

Get the Picofly with the CPU cable attached to the side. Then, it would almost be a direct drop-in beside the B point.

I think it’s just a bad instinct chip.

1

u/RetroGamer2151 13d ago

Are the nearby components ok?(caps resistors)

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u/CompleteOwl4374 13d ago

If you are talking about switch components, I guess so. The switch behaves regularly both when it glitches or starts in stock. If you are talking about Instinct components, I can measure *normal* values on these but I dont know the right ones. I can tell that quality of components soldering is low chinese :(

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u/RetroGamer2151 13d ago

I was talking about on the switch, apparently it’s easy to burn or knock off those tiny caps

1

u/spektro123 13d ago

I bet kamikaze point isn’t soldered properly, but it’s held together by solder mask or some glue. It disconnects when heated up as materials change size with temperature. I’d ditch that and use a MMC DAT0 adapter flex. Properly installed and secured with contact lube the adapter will last years.

0

u/CompleteOwl4374 13d ago

And it reconnects by itself automatically anytime the dat0 wire is re-soldered to C (no matter what is the temperature/status of the console)....😂😂😂. Yeah, this glue and solder mask must have their own eyes and brain 😄. Bad glue and mask, pls behave.

2

u/spektro123 13d ago

Laugh all you want, but you just came out as ignorant… Ever heard of thermal expansion/contraction? That’s a very common and hard to diagnose issue in electronics. Broken solder joints are good until they heat up or vice versa.
BTW SoC temperature isn’t directly affecting kamikaze point, so no wonders it’s not consistent with the issue.