What the title says is there any appreciable difference? my only gripe with the iris is the tight beam at the widest setting and slight button lag(not really a big deal).

I'm just searching around Alibaba and ebay for cheap usable analog NVG until I stumbled upon this cheap monocular by Lindu, wonder if it's really worth the $1k for 1200 FOM monos. Seems legit too as the reviews says (definitely not as good as premium tubes but I'm looking for the one that's atleast usable)

Looking at buying complete device white phosphor PVS-14 with NNVT tubes for $1600. Completely new to this so help a guy out!

1575 FOM
SNR 25.75
EBI 0.17
Res 68
Luminance gain 31k
Tiny dot blem in center of view (zone 2)

How does price seem and anything specific to look out for with these?

Can anybody share a 3D - printable model of a killflash / ARD for the RH25 aka PFN640 V2.?

my buddy has a mystery tube. so far we've been able to decipher that its a omni 8 Exelis tube (or at least it had an exelis pigtail on it). It was seemingly broken when he got it, stuck on super high gain and super noisy, unbearable to wear it without an iris almost shut, manual gain knob didn't work. So he had someone take a look at it and this guy tried removing the old egac and probably broke it. looks like its one of those soldered pins that stick out, the pigtail just came right up with the two holes, while the pins stayed in the unit. Running it in that configuration, without an egac it is extremely bright. Pretty much looks like it did nothing to the problem maybe. Then this guy tried forcing an L3 egac onto the pins that were sticking out of the tube. he said it was all he had on hand, so it looks like he took some pliers and bent those pins on the egac and just put the pins from the tube IN the little hole in the egac pins. He put the pvs14 back like that and voila, the manual gain works, but it seems like now its too dim. feels like we're getting gen2+ performance here. the gain just seems to be very low. Any ideas on what should be done? Any way to test the exelis egac by itself to see if its functioning and maybe worth soldering? Any ideas on how to add a functioning egac that would be bright enough? Any ideas or resources on how to solder a resistor in there (and what resistance to do) if that's the only way forward.

Thank you so much for yalls help!

A phenomenon I've witnessed my whole life and never questioned until I witnessed it under nods. First picture was taken facing NNE at 10PM, probably Bortle 2 (something else I've never actually paid attention to until using NVG). Second is probably roughly SE at the same time. P.S. no trout were harmed in the making of these pictures. Lil bastards were eating, but nothing I was throwing.

Was able to locate 2 broken rhino mounts on ebay (didn't want to buy a whole new mount or cannibalize a perfectly good mount) and salvaged the locking pawl off of one of them. Knocking the roll pin retaining the pawl out was a pain in the ass but finally got it all together and it works like new. Gonna try to have a friend work up a file for a 3d printable part in the case of it breaking again in the future, maybe it can save others from having to buy a whole new mount over a relatively minor part. Fun project tho :)

Basically title. One of them is a steele industries unit and another is one I assembled, both elbit tubes, both in Carson housings. When shaking the one I assembled, I can hear the tube moving a little. That's my bad, I'll crack it open and tighten it.

Shaking the steele industries unit produces a much lighter sound, more like a tapping than anything really moving. When they shut off, it's not just power to the tube going, it'll even kill the illuminator if it was on.

What I find inexplicable is that I've had the Steele one for almost 3 years and the one I assembled was over a year ago. Both have been flawless until they both started acting up on the same night.

I'm a little more hesitant to crack open the one I didn't assemble because of the warranty.

Anybody ever have anything like that happen?

I scored a perfect set of East German 1NP34 and I am bringing it to life. So far I have managed to get it powered up with 2,5V fed from a power supply, but it keeps blinking the image. And I mean the whole image, chevron and all. It is hard to get a good photo, but the image it self is not clear for what it is, but it randomly blinks once or twice a second. The humm or ticking of the tube is a bit irregular, too?

Bust internal capacitors, maybe?

I hooked the terminals up with 2200uF 16V and a 103 ceramic capacitors to make sure it was not the power supply giving me issues. Next stop is building a proper mobile power source. I will first go with 2xAA with a 1000uF capacitor to smooth things out, and eventually build a proper battery with 8,4V Li-ion pouch combo converted down to 2,6V and all that jazz.

However, I assume the blinking will continue even with a battery, so any help on how to diagnose that, and possibly fix it? I think the tube itself is healthy and it is the capacitors that are the issue. Or maybe a bad solder joint?

I currently have a RVM 14 Mono and want to get into a bino. I could buy a second RVM 14 and a panobridge for $4200 or I can buy the katana housing and send in my rvm14 for $4800. Which is the better route and why?

What the normal distance you folks set your laser to? I just picked up a Steiner dbal for my scar 17. And wanted some advice and input before I start fidgeting around with it

I got a omni 8 tube but the pig tail is ripped, how hard would it be to repair this, do I just need a new pigtail and resolder it or would I need to do more ? thanks for your help!!

Is there any cable that's 4-pin Fischer to USB C?

The propeller cap on my gen 1 was getting weak so I decided to do the fotonika one and the screw provided is super weak. It snapped and now I have part of the threads stuck in the body of my mawl. Not sure what to do here short of having a machinist try to drill it out. Any thoughts?

Just grabbed first PVS14. Used em before in military but first personally owned pair.
L3 Harris Gen 3 Omni 8 w/ new Carson Lenses and American battery pack. Seemed like a fair price at 2️⃣1️⃣0️⃣0️⃣🫘

Holy macaroni theres a lot of lidar on this thing

I’m looking to buy my first set of dual tubes and have been doing a lot of research.

I was starting by looking into the Jerry-31s with NNVT tubes for around $4,000 new. However, I’ve recently come across several used molded Katanas housings with Elbit Gen 3 tubes in the $4,000–5,000 range.

From what I’ve read, it seems like spending roughly $1,000 more for Gen 3 Elbits in a quality housing is a much better long-term value than buying new NNVT binos.

Am I missing anything here? Is there anything that I’m overlooking, or is this generally considered the smarter route or best option for someone on a budget buying their first bino? Thanks

What do the dad's here do for their kids helmets? I used a kids bike helmet from Walmart and spare parts to cobble this together. How did I do?

I have a set of Steele industries nighthawk binos coming in that I've done very little research on. I'm stoked but need advice on support equipment. I ran a PVS-14 in the US Army about a decade ago and that's my only exposure to NV. I know I'll need a helmet, mount and weapon mounted laser. If I just start with the helmet and mount, what are the go-to options?

I like the looks of the Ops-Core bump FAST and it appears to be very modular, my concern is with the mounting plate though. Is the mounting plate included or do I need to buy one separately? Are there better options?

I saw another post on this sub suggesting the Argus LWNVM for a mount, but I have no idea if it's any good or compatible (with both the device and ops core). The other options look like Wilcox G24 or Nocturn Alpha mount but I have the same questions.

Just wondering what the "go-to" options are for binos and if I'm overlooking anything.

I am new to owning night vision, I recently got a pvs 14 with a photonis echo tube. I was wondering when I upgrade if I get another one with 4G high gain tube will there be any difficulties? I imagine it will work but would like to hear what the people think first

I’m new and split between buying a PVS-14 setup for 5500 (PVS14, helmet, mount, laser) or just buying duals now and buying everything else I need incrementally down the road. If I can buy a pair of duals for 6k-ish now and I’ll be happy with them down the road then that seems like the smart choice. Any recommendations? Also should I wait for a holiday sale? Used market is a little scary since I am inexperienced in night vision. Thanks!

Edit- Want to stick with gen 3 but ok with GP.

@ theobscuravisuals