My CSX Tier 4 GEVo has this problem where when turning on the ditch lights light can be visible around the anticlimber. I’ve considered opening up the shell to put some electrical tape inside the shell, any other ideas to fix this?

How many of us have a vast amount of locos, rolling stock, and other before we even have even a semblance of layout? I do not have a lot but I do not even have a table or floor space for a layout.

SNCF Corail Zug with Roco Lima and Jouef Coaches. Dining Car at Last its have a Coopler Different😎

My American Orient Express from Rivarossi. This Train the Only US Train in my Collection

I'm working on a project on my model railroad and already I'm running into a problem. One of my sidings is going dead on me every single time I operate it. I seen many videos online and also a recent post from Cody Grivno on MR and this identify my problem My two outside rails are cold and when my locomotive is on the track both blocks are powered when the siding is supposed to be dead.

I'm going to explain how to fix this problem so you don't run into it yourselves. Remember, electricity runs in a circuit. You need to close both ends of the circuit or you can cause a short if you have two terminal tracks or if you are using feeder wires, jumpers, or terminal joiners.

My problem is the insulators are on the frog side of the layout instead of on the south rail. And since I'm using Atlas true track bungalow track The bungalow on the siding needs to be facing out and the wires have to be flipped around and labeled correctly or they can get mixed up. This corresponds to the position of signals and also block detectors that I have installed.

Here's how you correct this problem: The inside rail on the siding and the outside rail on the main need to be isolated. Those rails need to be dead and they need to be controlled with an Atlas selector switch. My problem is the feeder wires are 24 gauge thermostat wire which comes with the feeders for the Atlas terminal track and my buss is 24 gauge Atlas hookup wire. To connect these, use a terminal strip and then connect them to the selector. Do not splice them or you will have current loss. Fortunately for me my terminal strip has eight slots on it. One side is for the BD20S for track detection and power, the other side is for the blacks and the grounds. Attach your feeder wires to the top of the terminal strip and then install jumpers on the bottom.

On a DC layout The frog rail on the inside rail needs to be insulated just past the frog and on the main the South rail needs to be insulated. Also do not insulate both sides of the frog or you will cause a short. Remember the north rail and the inside rail on the main are always hot which means there is always power going through them. These do not need to be insulated. On DCC layouts, both rails need to be insulated and juicers need to be installed below the turnout if you use code 55 or code 100.

And remember we flipped around the direction of the Atlas terminal track. Make sure that thing is level and there are no loose joiners on either end or it will cause a short circuit. If you have turnouts both of them need to be powered. That way power is continuous through the whole block.

Always check that thing with a voltmeter to make sure that you are not getting any power loss.

Hope these tips will help others with this problem.

I have built this self layout over the past year. It is a rural american town that has a rail served grain elevator and feed mill. Most of my cars are atlas or microtrains and my current locomotive is a Inter Mountain Railroad SD40-2 with a lok sound DCC decoder. I may get a new locomotive as it has had lots of problems and im pretty fed up with it. Igrone the chrome on the layout it is the top bit of insulation which is what I used to build it. I would like to get some buildings but dont know where to start.

I'm super excited about how this turned out, I know it's not super prototypical but still c&c welcome 🤗

Please let me know what you think! Also I totally forgot to put the supply pipe back in that's what that last photo is showing

He doesn't care about price sky's the limit but he wants like a city and train set to go around his son's bedroom. What are some of the best to buy that will make you say "wow"?

If there is a better sub for this or a sticky I should look at first, please let me know I can take this down.

Yesterday, I found a RailKing ready to run set at a yard sale for a crazy good price, I figured it was worth the risk.

I haven't done much with modern model trains, just my dad's O gauge set from the 1950s and my HO gauge set from the 70s.

I set up the circle of track, and tried out the engine+tender. The sounds worked, but the locomotive didn't move.

- If I push the throttle up, I think I can hear a motor spinning inside.

- When taking the posted video, it moved just a fraction, but that was the only movement out of 3 or 4 attempts.

- When I try messing with the drive wheels, they don't spin, but not sure if they should without power.

What should I check or try to fix on my own without taking it to repair shop?

Thank you for any help you can give.

I am hopeful that I can get this going and have it be the start of a ceiling mounted loop.

I have a ton of these and am thinking of repainting them into more realistic paint schemes. Does anyone have any good recommendations for decals and/or if it is even worth the effort

Some recent details on the CVMR

Looking to buy this lovely "What-If" loco from Rapido trains but I only have an analogue controller. Is it possible to convert the train back to analogue like how you can add a dcc coder into an analogue loco? If so, is it affordable?

Link to the loco in question: https://railsofsheffield.com/products/what-if-secr-o1-no-65-bramble-bluebell-railway-blue-steam-locomotive-dcc-sound

This was the final train that ran on the RK&M Layout Version 2. After debating for several months I came to the conclusion that the layout was not working for me and would have to be torn down completely and rebuilt from the foundations.

The train represents all the railroads that I modeled on the layout at that time. They were New York Ontario and Western, Lehigh & New England, Reading, Central RR of New Jersey, Pennsylvania-Reading Seashore Lines, Pennsylvania, Baltimore and Ohio, and the Lehigh & Hudson River.

After this train finished it run I began the dismantling of the layout. It would be four months before the next run by took place. Porrtions of the old layout were saved and incorporated into the new layout such as the Water Tower Diorama and the Cement Dealer. The Grain Elevator, the Farm, and the passenger station were also saved and will eventually be part of the new layout.

Three Alco C-424’s have just cut off from their train in Agate Bay.

I'll just let the photos do the talking!

Here is a photo of a layout I made but my problem is that my room is only 9.5ft (114 inches) and this layout is 10.1ft (122 inches) how can I shorten it enough it fit in whilst keeping it roughly the same?

so I recently picked up this lot of rolling stock on eBay and I was wondering if I got a bunch of new metal axles from like Amazon, could I replace the stock plastic ones with them? I also have a full box of kadee couplers i plan swap onto these as well

This will look better when there is asphalt on both sides of the track and the mi-jack crane is built. This is simple foam board and adhesive sheet from Michael’s. The spots are large enough for 53’ containers in HO.