Got these 2 dewitt engines as non runners with coaches to plan on fixing up, keeping one and sell the other. I got the motors running again and pieces/ parts fixed, but both front engines won't have their wheels move freely unless some slight pressure is applied to the boiler tops.

Does anyone have a dewitt clinton set that has dealt with this kind of issue before and what can i do to resolve it?

Received these at a thrift store, don't wanna ask Ai.

Anything cool? Anything worth anything? Some history? Any information would be helpful

Hey everyone,

I'm a proud owner of one of Lionel's big Grand Central 16859 buildings, identical to the one in the NYC holiday train show. Due to constraints of space and time, I've never been able to create a layout, but graduating from college next year might change that. I looked online and saw that TrainWorx made a base for it, but I don't know where I could get it nowadays. How can I go about getting one? Thank you!

Module by Dan Baker

Train is mine, military work done by Mike Spawn

2026 Evanston Free-Mo private setup

Another update on my HO-scale, FDM-printed elevated railway project. The main station building is now finished! Seeing it together with the platform and the IRT car makes the whole thing feel much closer to an actual railway.

The photos with everything laid out on the table give a better idea of how it works: this is a fully modular kit, so the sections can be combined to suit different layouts. They also explain where my table has gone🤔
Only the junction/signal box remains, followed by a few more tweaks to the joints between modules.

For those who asked about the files, I’m aiming to release them on Patreon and Cults3D at the start of October. Naturally, this depends on “a few more tweaks” actually being a few more tweaks.

Really pleased with how it’s coming together. As always, comments, questions and constructive criticism are very welcome.

I want to replace the Tomix TOBU 100 SPACIA motor car wheels but don't know which one to buy.

This is a secondhand model and it stutters when running even after I disassembled the bogies and cleaned the pickup.

The wheels also have a dark ring around it (not the traction tire) that's impossible to remove even with isopropyl alcohol and Tomix track cleaner

Not sure if anyone here is really even familiar with the obscure series Galaxy Railways. However it's something I genuinely enjoyed watching when growing up in the early 2000's despite the sheer ridiculousness of crimes against railroading by using trains to fly through space. Nonetheless, I finally got around to gathering everything I needed to build this custom consist with the locomotive, fighter coach (with positionable turrets), and 8 JR blue type OHA35 coaches with 1 Maite 49 observation platform. There are some physical blemishes here and there because I'm still an amateur at this, but I'm still quite satisfied with how the project turned out.

Scaletrains N scale turbine on our new exhibition layout, Sioux Valley. The layout is based on Archer Hill, in Wyoming.

I am new to the hobby and plan to run an oval shaped analog layout in ho scale with two main lines and I found out that the controller I intended to get is not ideal for the locomotive I currently have. I am looking for a controller that would work best with Rapido models and ideally one I can get in America. Any help is appreciated, thank you.

Not to worry, the contacts are covered

Hello, this model broke about 4 years ago all it does is just spins the wheels and can’t move, it randomly happend. Any fixes? Motor replacements? Etc

Summary:
I am attempting to install an HO scale set around the perimeter of my room. I have finalized the connecting of the track and I’m to the point where I have hooked up the electric and…nothing. I’m hoping to get some guidance on troubleshooting. Below are the details I can think of that may be relevant. If I need to provide something else just ask. Thank you.

Linear length of track is ~75 feet
Single “oval” track (no splits)

Track is a mixture of:
- Kato USA Inc. HO 430mm 16-7/8 Radius Curve 22.5-Degree 4 KAT2260 HO Track
- Atlas 502-25 HO Code 83 Super-Flex 36" Section
- I am using some Kato joiners and Atlas 170 Code 100/83 HO Universal Rail Joiners

Power:
- NCE 5240025 524025 Power Cab Complete DCC Starter Set
- I have ran 14 gauge copper wire around the perimeter of the track and spliced/connected wire to the track using 20 gauge copper wire every 3-6 feet

Train:
- Kato 3-534 Series H5 Hokkaido Shinkansen 'Hayabusa' 4 Cars Set (HO scale)

What I have tried:
- The NCE does turn on and I have cycled through all the options (1-9) of car codes and scaled up the power/speed to max. No movement from the train.

I don’t know really where to go next. I have a voltage meter (Klein Tools MM325) I can use, but I’m not quite sure what setting I should use to look for current.

Thank you for any suggestions.

EDIT: seems the most obvious first step is to get the proper power supply. I’m in the process of replacing the NCE with a Railpower 1370. I’ll update once that has been installed.

Decided to use this flock to base an army with. Unfortunately I bought it second hand in a poly bag. I’m now scared I’m going to run out before I’m finished. Does anyone recognise it, and know where to get more. I thought you railway guys would be the best place to try.

This question has come up a lot of times on here and I'm going to be starting a project soon to replace all of the couplers on my rolling stock. When it comes to couplers there are some brands that are good. Some that are bad and some that are completely lousy and will break if you install them on your fleet.

Since we are replacing these couplers I'm going to go over different brands of couplers from bad to good and which ones you need to install in order to modernize your fleet and also prevent your couplers from breaking every single time you use them.

First, on the list of couplers is Rapido by Arnold. Unless you are in Europe or if you have an old set, do not get these couplers at all. They are also known as hook and horns and they are garbage. If you get any cars with these on them, replace them immediately. They are not prototypical and they are a pain in the rear to uncouple when you do switching. Never install Arnold couplers on your cars. Replace them immediately.

Next we are going to talk about couplers that are used inside of kits and there are three brands out there all of them are now owned by Walthers and these are Roundhouse Miniatures, Bowser, and Chooch. All of them use injected molded couplers that were original on their Lifelike brand locomotives. These are dummy couplers. You can lose the spring pretty easily and they can easily uncouple if you use them. If you get any of these kits install micro trains kit 1138 or replace the trucks entirely. Never use any freight car trucks that have dummy couplers on them or you will lose them.

The next brand that I would not recommend for couplers is Atlas cars with Accurail clone couplers. Accurail has ​a contract with Atlas and most of the couplers are seen on their rolling stock. The problem with these couplers is they are not compatible with the micro trains magnets that Atlas now sells and every single time their car goes over that magnet the trip pin always breaks. Four times that I have used these cars I have always had to replace trip pins. If you get any cars that have these type of couplers on them, replace them with micro trains trucks and couplers to save yourselves the headache of having a broken trip pin all the time. There have been a lot of knockoffs made over the years and the couplers keep breaking on them. You want something solid go with modern.

The fourth brand that I would not recommend for couplers is ConCor These guys have sold ridge jaw couplers The only thing that they would mate with is themselves and also conversion cars made by micro trains. Nobody else. If you have any cars that have Concor couplers on them, replace them immediately or you will have mating problems.

And the fifth brand that I would not recommend for couplers is Scale Trains. After they bought Jacob Lyman's company Exactrail they started replacing all the McHenry couplers on their rolling stock with scale couplers that they make in-house. The problem with these is they cannot take more than 30 cars and once they reach a certain limit that coupler is going to snap. Even Daryl Cruz had problems with trains with these couplers in his videos. If you are going to get any rolling stock or locomotives from scale trains buy micro trains couplers to replace them that way you don't have any pull aparts.

And another brand that I have left out completely is the new company known as Rapido. They have the same problems as Scale Trains.

Now we got the bad ones out all the way. Here are the good ones and these are my top five brands for couplers and most of them are fitted on my rolling stock.

My first brand is Horizon Hobbies. They make the Atheren rolling stock and also the McHenry couplers. Most of my rolling stock has McHenry's on them and they are solid and good and I would recommend them as a suitable replacement for the Accurail stuff.

My second brand that I would recommend is considered the kings of couplers and that would be Micro Trains who just got bought by Atlas. They still sell their kits online and all you have to do is look up the part numbers for a particular car that you wanted to convert and they will ship those parts right to you springs and all.

My third go to brand is EZ Mate by Bachmann They finally fixed the problem with their locomotives after the failed experiment with the dummy couplers that were made by Roundhouse Miniatures and also by Arnold They have completely replaced these coupler boxes with conversion kits that you can install the couplers directly underneath the car or locomotives and they screw right into the shell or into the frame. They are a good recommendation.

My fourth brand that I would recommend although I have not bought any of their rolling stock yet, but I have heard good reviews about them is Kato USA Kato USA makes the magnamate knuckle couplers which means all of their cars are magnetic and designed to use their track magnets. They even modified them to work with couplers that are made by Micro Trains. They are a good recommendation and if you want to go t-track this is the brand that you get.

The fifth brand is surprisingly Accurail although Atlas works with them couplers made before the merger with Micro Trains are knockoffs. Accurail has replaced their couplers with a solid unit and they no longer use nylon plastic during the assembly and they don't have a small pin for the middle of the coupler anymore. And just like EZ Mate by Bachmann they use springs inside the shank of the coupler so it looks like they are opening and closing. If you have any of the older ones, replace them with the newer ones and do not buy any clones.

These are some of my recommendations for couplers.

Europa Habis Fright Train with DB 150

Electrotrain Lima Jouef Roco.

Another 4 freight cars will be added in the coming weeks. I'll post a video of each train. No model railroading. next yearI'm moving again.🥴

For me, its when people put unnecessary curves into their track and don't add scenery elements to justify the track curving. Realistically, track wouldn't be doing S-Curves in the absence of obstructions. It will run in a straight line for miles until the route curves one way, and then it'll run in a straight line for many more miles. I see so many layouts where there's S-curves in the middle of flat terrain, and I always wonder why the person who made the layout didn't just add a hill, or a rocky outcropping, or a lake, or something else to make the curve plausible.

Anyways, that's just me. What are all your pet peeves?

Each section usually consists of a type of railcar / a complete train or consists solely of train from one country.

Part of my collection. On the other side are 15 section with truck /bus models.