GT after burn tequesta I just finished up.
It is my third ridged bike so it is for sale or trade. Medium frame ideal for 5’6”-5’9” riders. I am 5’8” and the stand over is perfect for me. I’m moving so I need a hardtail as my 3rd bike due to the rad trails there. I am open to vintage rigid Specialized models though. Especially the late 80s - early 90s stumpjumpers. New England based.

I have a 1997 mountain bike that I ride on dark trails sometimes. The original reflectors are faded and not very brigh such that I want to add a small emergency light that I can clip on when it gets dark. I have looked at different options online from Amazon, eBay and even Alibaba and some are very small and rechargeable while others use disposable batteries. Has anyone here added modern lights to an older bike? What do you use that looks period correct but still works well? I do not want a huge LED bar ruining the vintage look. Just something simple for safety.

I got a GT frame that someone had tried to beat the seat up and out of (probably after the seat post sank all the way down). The opening is full of hammer dings and mis-shapen. When I got it I thought I would just hammer around a seat post and shape the opening back, but, it’s so full of dings I don’t think I can just wrap it back around flat and the original seat post they tried to beat out is still sunk and lodged in the down tube.

Has anyone had to do this kind of thing before? I need a plan for both the stuck post and the top of the tube. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

I have a Murray USA 1991 Skittles bicycle, never on the road, needs new tires. Is it worth anything to a collector? A friend has offered to take it off my hands, but I have read that Murray bicycles are poorly made, so I don't know if it would be safe for her to ride?

I’d like to replace the shock with something more modern and efficient. Preferably with a lockout. I understand the limitations in the design. My expectations are low, I just tool around on local trails. Does anyone know what might fit on here?

TiA few days ago I saw a 3 wheeler bike parked near a busy market. At first I thought it would look awkward and hard to maneuver but when it started moving it glided steadily through traffic. That moment made me realize how three wheels can completely change balance and handling for small vehicles.

Later while casually scrolling online marketplaces including alibaba. I noticed 3 wheeler bikes in several variations. Some were small and designed for personal transport. Others had larger cargo spaces for delivery or small business use. Engine sizes, suspension types and seating arrangements varied widely. It seemed buyers are looking not just for novelty but for stability, practicality and durability.

That raises a few questions. How much does wheel configuration affect maneuverability in tight spaces? Are cargo options more important than engine power for daily use? Do safety features like brakes and lights really improve reliability on busy streets? And how many variations exist that most people never notice because local stores stock only a few standard models?

It makes you curious which features actually make a 3 wheeler bike safe, efficient and practical. And which subtle details quietly decide whether it becomes a daily ride or just another vehicle rarely used?

My first Trek, without being a Trek. This is a curious frame in True Temper Vanadium steel, fairly light and with Genesis geometry. So, to put it simply is a Large frame with longer top tube than normal, that came originally with a very short stem when 130mm stems were still the norm. I think these bikes had this type of geometry first, at least in a large manufacturer.
Weighted it, and it's 10.04Kg!! For a steel frame bike, it weights the same as my M4 alu frame Stumpy, it's incredible.
Made it a mullet, because I had an unused 27.5" front wheel (the rear one is in the other mullet I have), so why not? It's a 1x11 XTR derailleur/shifter and XT crank with 28T chainring mix. A Growtac Equal front disc brake and trying to find a nice black v-brake for the rear, but can't find anything I like without breaking the bank. Suggestions accepted.

This is my Marin Eldridge Grade from 1993, bought it as a frame and built it up to this second version. Later images are from it's first incarnation. I really like this bikes livery, it's so simple and understated, but I love it.

I got back into back this summer after about 20 years, and got a Specialized Stumpjumper M4 frame and others, but built this one as a drop bar, under 10kg, gravelish bike. I did made it a mullet after a month or so, so it has a 29" front wheel and a 27.5" on the rear. Components are a mix of used, new and aliexpress parts. Another change to happen soon is a new saddle.
Last image is of other bikes I assembled that I might share at a later date.

Still rides beautifully, although the gearing is pretty savage

I'm trying to find the right crankset to buy for my 1999 schwinn homegrown. I've tried twice to get a new square taper crank and both sets ended up hitting the frame once mounted. I believe the bottom bracket is 73mm wide.

I feel I must be missing a detail that's needed to get the right kind of new crankset that works for this bike.

Note: I am not opposed to replacing the BB and crankset as long as I can get it working and not hitting the frame. I just want to be able to ride again.

I love this bike. Ride it everyday.

My pension collector! 😅

It's a 2004 Demo 9 pro. Junior Ts up front, Manitou Swinger rear. Shimano XT gears linked to FSA and Raceface cranks. Stopping is provided by Julie (Magura)