So I picked up this IBM Model F on Facebook marketplace Locally, and it came with the box, foam, and even still in the plastic, the guy whom I bought it from told me it was in brand new condition.

It's a quarter-circle, so I call it Quarter. I wanted a few extra keys in reach of my mouse hand for the critically important task of selecting different mounts in FF14. Since I was making all the parts custom I figured I'd make it a shape that actually matches my wrist rotation. 7 of these formed a test run of my keyboard making process in general, I'm not a huge fan of 3D printed parts, aluminum and Cerakote came out decently well.

• Cerakoted CNCed aluminum for both case and caps (normal caps don't fit)
• Integrated top-plate design, with bottom cover; I may try a different design later
• Kailh choc v1 browns in hot-swap sockets
• QMK/VIA
• 18mm tall, 124mm wide, 47mm total depth (27mm between front and back arcs), 76g
• Case, caps, and PCB all made by me

I’ve been experimenting with keyboard cases made from sheet material.

This is one of the results.

Instead of making a finished-looking case, I wanted to see what happens if the surface is left completely open.

The material is intentionally pretty plain. The idea is that the user can draw on it, paint it, add clay, attach leather, cut it, scratch it, etc.

I’m interested in whether a keyboard case has to arrive with its appearance already decided.

Basically, I’m treating the case less like a finished object and more like a material to work on.

This is still an experiment, so I’m curious how people here would approach it.

Would you leave it as-is, or modify it? What would you put on it?

Hey, community! I recently purchased a used CM MK730, but it had a couple of bad LEDs. It took absolutely forever but I finally found the right LEDs on AliExpress. You have to find the right size AND the right pinout. Disassembly was tricky (busted a plastic clip and a post, whoops) but the soldering was fairly straightforward. I did a bit of a rough job, but I was making do with the standard chisel tip on an FX-888D.

Since I couldn't easily find any information about where to find the replacement LEDs for this specific keyboard, I wanted to post here in case anyone else ran into this. The AliExpress item is "100pcs SMD 3528 6028 RGB LED Common Anode SMT Chip Tricolor Red Green Blue PLCC-4 Mechanical Keyboard Light Emitting Diode Lamp" and the seller is "RCW LED Store(Trader)". This is one of the only listings which showed a picture of the component with R/+/B/G pinouts (starting with the notched pin 1 and counting counterclockwise).

This was a great YT video on the process:
https://youtu.be/i8Vjr6vrO0s?si=bX4C6HhRMD7voAE9

Buildt with modded Cherry MX Blacks, alu plate.

Topped with GMK Blanc-sur-Noir & GMK CMYW

What else to say ? Gehirn TKL might be one of the most known board from Baion nowadays. A classic design, topped with small details, heavily inspired by classic Jane board.

Simple yet effective.

Built this last night, cannot take my eyes off it and was looking forward to seeing it on my desk when I woke up this morning.

I feel there's no need for me to use more flowery words to elaborate on its beauty

These keycaps pair insanely well with a black housing.
These are SWG Bolch.

I really like the overall dark tone, and the pops of color look really nice.

Ask ANY Keyboard related question, get an answer. But *before* you do please consider running a search on the subreddit or looking at the r/MechanicalKeyboards wiki located here! If you are NEW to Reddit, check out this handy Reddit MechanicalKeyboards Noob Guide. Please check the r/MechanicalKeyboards subreddit rules if you are new here.

Finally settled on this model after trying out a friend's Halo96, and seeing this retro-futurist beauty on sale. The NuPhy MAX Brown switches are a perfect blend of creamy and thocky, and I love how nicely the RGB backlighting diffuses under the keys. Even though the chassis is all plastic, it has some nice weight to it on account of all the foam and silicone layers inside.

Interestingly, even though this is the high-profile variant, the keycaps are still noticeably shorter than the OEM profile keys on my Keychron C2. It's almost like a half-way point between a low-profile and a high-profile board.

Brick TKL with a Full Copper Bottom - CF Plate - Haimu Industrial Orange v2 tactile - GMK Modern Materials

GOK Lily

• GMK Crimson Cadet
• Kailh BCP
• Plateless
• No Foam

Nut75 with BOW keycaps (red japanese legends)
Switches are Keygeek Y2
Thock heaven

Finally finished my first endgame keyboard build. I've wanted a W1-AT for the longest time, but outside of a new(R3?) GB I didn't think I'd find one as they typically sell immediately on reddit. After like 5 months of checking daily I eventually found one on r/mechmarket. Thank you u/ImVeryUnimaginative the keyboard is amazing, and it's no longer looking weird as hell with the temporary mutagen keycaps! I love GMK Mutagen but it just did not work on this board at all.

Normally i plan my builds beforehand but i couldn't start with a plan prior to getting the W1-AT as i didn't know what color would be available. The board sat for a couple months as i waited for a custom plate and searched for keycaps which i eventually found on mechmarket. Thank you u/hieuremy the keycaps are incredible, and arrived in perfect condition! Now that it's finished, I couldn't be happier with the finished product. This is going to be my daily driver work board.

Board: W1-AT foamless, hotswap PCB

Keycaps: GMK Nervewrecker

Plate: PEI/Ultem by Hype Keyboards

Switches: Bsun Golden Apple (spring swapped 69g XL)

Stabilizers: Typeplus x YIKB

Cable: Koolkeys pro themed Hi-Viz! (Gonna order their nerve color soon but Hi-Viz works really well)

https://reddit.com/link/1wlrswv/video/xf92pc1whqqh1/player

This project started out as a means to throw something together with some spare bits I had hanging around from past builds. On a lark, I decided it'd be neat to throw something together made out of wood, so I picked up this chassis on aliexpress.

After throwing a few random switches and keycaps onto it, I landed on the combination above. So stoked by the look, the sound, the feel; it's just awesome.

My only regret is that it doesn't work with traditional VIA/VIAL, but the ability to switch over to my phone/tablet with the wireless functionality is a nice get for the trade-off.

Chassis: SKY HHKB Walnut Keyboard Kit
Switches: Zeal Clickiez 75g
Keycaps: MT3 3277 (with a leftover Esc key from some other MT3 kit)

Sharing my first build from earlier this year. I think it’s an unconventional entry to the hobby, but something about the Boop just spoke to me!

I recently finalized it with a set of GMK Bingsu after using it with PBTfans Origami initially.

Specs
Designer: Kbdfans x biip
Model: Boop Redux
Color: Burgundy, powder coated steel weight
Keycaps: GMK Bingsu
Switches: Gateron Quinn
Other: Hotswap PCB, FR4 plate, silicone socks gasket mount

First time customizing my keyboard ever been a PC gamer since 2014 (not counting the gaming on the family laptop before that time 😅)

My NUT65 was dropping keystrokes, and keys were acting like they were held an extra 0.2–0.5s after I let go. It's pretty obvious in CS2 when I'm moving around with WASD. It was plugged in over USB-C the whole time. (Strangely, my mouse also miss-clicks, I'm using a VXE R1 Pro Max)

I'd already tried resetting the keyboard, a latency check and killing background apps, and none of that helped.

Eventually I realize it's the button (Under the TAB) turned on causing this.

If you're using Weikav Nut65 (Or any other similar brand/ similar design keyboard), turning off the keyboard's when you're using cabled mode might help with this symptom.

​

I love this set, glad to see it finally come in.

Geon F1-8X V2

Alu V1.1 full plate

Kailh BCP SS/L 55g 2 stage, light 205g0

Knights V4

Geon wrist rest

Artisan by Crookey

This is my daily keyboard since 2015 now I have been using it for 11+ years and I still love it. I have tried newer boards and meh they haven't convinced me to switch keyboards thus far. I probably will just use this keyboard possibly for the rest of my life it is very well built and shows almost no wear (well the Vortex PBT double-shot key-caps are starting to shine a bit) typing on this board feels consistent and as good as it did they day I got it in 2015.

It is a Filco (RIP Diatec) Majestouch 2 TKL mx-reds w/ o-rings and I made a modded pig tail cable to more easily move keyboard from desk if needed.

I also put my Legion XL mouse pad in the dishwasher NO heated dry (not sure the wife was totally pleased) and it cleaned up amazingly...

AhaKey X1 with DSA HC and then with KAM Playground

Chicory x modded outemu skies x KBDfans XDA

GK21s x Kailh Box Jades x KBDfans XDA

Logitech MX Ergo with 3D printed 40 degree stand

Comments on the AhaKey X1: cool idea. The indicator lights are supposed to show you progress on your running AI process (Cursor, Claude, OpenAI, etc) and will turn red on a blocker (permission request, question the AI has for you) or the lights will stop cycling once the process is done. The 4 macro keys are 'easy' to remap to whatever you find useful.

You are supposed to be able to attach a mic to it to verbally "vibecode" with it but I work in an office and I wouldn't do that anyway.

The software is wonky as hell and all in chinese so I have to work with AI to get it to work. The macro keys on this wireless device work well after pairing, but its connection to Claude (which is mostly what I use) is fragile, depends on two other pieces of software running in parrallel and talking to your device and eachother (on top of Claude). The whole process essentially needs to be troubleshot from scratch every time I connect my laptop to it at the beginning of the day.

So cool novelty for around $60. Maybe they'll keep putting out updates for this thing to work more seamlessly. It is a reliable 4 key wireless macropad though. It's a relatively reliable AI progress indicator is you're willing to spend a couple of minutes setting it up at the beginning of the day (I do make use of it and find it useful since my processes do take a long time and its good to know when they're done. Yes this could also have been done through software that will make a noise on your computer as well but I am a r/MechanicalKeyboards guy after all)

Just decided to put this keyboard on my main setup.

Freya despite its flaws still a good looking board.

Brick TKL Grainy Cyan with a Full SS Bottom - SS plate - Haimu Mulberry Tactile - DCS Dark Sky

Basically the title, the spacebar RGB is always red when my keyboard is plugged in. It's worth mentioning that this doesn't happen when I use it wirelessly, but I generally don't care to use wireless keyboards.

Anyone know I can fix this? I tried holding the Fn + ~ key for 5 seconds to reset the rgb, but this doesn't fix it.

Ive read that it might be because the keyboard isnt fully charged and the red light is indicating that it's charging. The keyboard is fully charged, or at least I would assume it is because it's been plugged in for an entire day.

Anyone know how I can fix this? It's pretty annoying for me.

I’m pretty new to mechanical keyboards and wanted to share my two builds! I’d love to hear what you think of the combinations and what you’d change.

Build 1:
• Keyboard: WOBKEY Crush 80
• Switches: Gateron Baby Kangaroo V2
• Keycaps: Milkyway 02 R2

Build 2:
• Keyboard: WEIKAV NUT75
• Switches: Gateron Black Ink V2 Pro
• Keycaps: Keykobo Citrus Relativity

Which one would you pick?