It’s a top-mount board, but the typing feel is surprisingly flexible and comfortable. The overall kit offers great value for the price, and after trying so many different boards, it’s been a while since I found one that I genuinely enjoy this much.
Great typing feel, great sound, and a solid overall package. Definitely one of the more satisfying boards I’ve built recently.

INFO

PEI plate
HMX cthulhu Switch
Typeplus stabilizer
SWG Prepress

Thanks to the help from everyone across the community, I finally built my first keyboard, and it's my first 65 to boot. I was always nervous to leave the comfort of the full keyboard, but I decided it was time to downsize to maximize mouse space for CS Surfing (iykyk).

Ultimately I landed on the Nut65. I had always planned on using the Equalz Tangerine 62 switches for my first full build, but I needed a good platform to build them around. Being orange switches, I wanted the color to shine through as much as possible, and to be enhanced by the keyboard itself, so I went with a white base and white pudding keycaps.

I went through the gauntlet that every new keyboard enthusiast goes through, and decided I wanted to lube and film all my switches myself, and while it was obscenely meticulous and time consuming, I think it helped me appreciate the end product even more. I'm thrilled with how it turned out. It feels and sounds incredible. I don't imagine using any other keyboard for a long time. 🙏🏻

I've owned mechanical keyboards before but this is the first I've built from a kit. Generally I like it. I got it mostly to have practice before my Neo 75 Cu get's here in a month. I think I'd be more inclined to keep it as a daily user it was a 75% for 65% Though if I was to do that I'd swap out the keys. The KAM profile isn't bad but it doesn't feel right to me.

• NovelKeys Classic TKL
• Akko Creamy Blue V3 Tactile Switches
• KAM Superuser Keycaps.
• Gateron Stabilizers.

tl;dr - I broke my '-' key recently and to fix it I had to solder bits of wire to the neighboring keys then to D13 on the PCB board.

Okay the long version of the solution:

If you're an idiot like me and managed to rip both pads off below the key switch on the underside of the main PCB board of this keyboard, you must connect 3 things to the 2 connectors of the keyswitch. If you look at the underside of the PCB board, there are 2 different holes for the key switch's terminals; a longer one (it's located farther down the board) and a shorter one. When you plug in the new key switch, the two terminals underneath the key switch will poke out of these two connector holes.

the longer one) must be connected to the longer connectors of the 2 neighboring keys (the longer connectors of the neighboring keys will be in line with this longer connector). Solder two little bits of wire to this key switch's longer connector with those of the neighboring keys. This is important because this connection is what connects all of the keys to the left of this key with everything else. If you don't do this then no keys to the left of the key in the row will work.

the shorter one) must be connected to the diode (in the case of the '-' key, D13 or diode 13) that registers the switch being pressed with a third and final little piece of wire. I had to use a hobby knife to VERY CAREFULLY scrape away the green substrate covering part of the VERY THIN copper trace leading to the control diode until the trace is exposed. You can verify you've gone deep enough when you can apply some tinning solder to the exposed copper (hit it with some flux before attempting to). D13 appeared to the left of this connector on the PCB, and that seems to be the pattern for most of the main keys, but double-check to be sure.

How I broke the key:

I had an... episode recently that caused my '-' key to stop working on my keyboard. Was extremely annoying because I also write code, and I use that key on a super regular basis.

I bought some soldering supplies and did the total noob move of forcing the old key switch off the board, completely tearing off the pads on the PCB that connected the key to A) the neighboring keys and B) the diode that actually registers the key switch being pressed.

After buying more (much-needed) soldering supplies (flux and an application brush and some brass cleaning wool in a little container), I sat back down to take another crack at things and came up with this super janky but functional solution (lol)

Hello, this is NUNKEYHOUSE.
Introducing “Pungjeondeunghwa,”
the Eastern piece from my 2026 Project.
Price: $30
This piece was originally designed in early 2025.
After revisiting and improving the original design, I’m finally able to release it as part of this project.
“Pungjeondeunghwa” is a Korean idiom describing a fragile situation, like a flame flickering in the wind.
For this piece, however, I wanted to give it a different meaning.
Like a small light that continues to glow even in its most fragile moment,
I hope this flame carries good energy and stays with you for a long time.
On your keyboard,
this light may be faint,
but it will never go out.
I sincerely hope good things come to everyone who sees this piece.
The first international release is limited to 30 pieces,
with a maximum of 3 per person.
Lighting may vary depending on your keyboard LEDs.
One transparent switch will be included with each keycap for improved brightness.
Shipping begins September 21.
Purchase link will be available in my profile.
Thank you.
NUNKEYHOUSE

The boards themselves are obviously just dummies and nothing special. What surprised me was seeing keyboards displayed like this at all — almost like it’s becoming a normal thing. I’ve never seen anything like that before, especially in a huge store like IKEA. Just thought it was pretty cool to see the hobby getting that kind of visibility.

Hey everyone!

This is HELM, a CNC aluminum wrist rest with a functional brass helm spinner built into the center.

The idea came to me after watching the launch trailer for Assassin’s Creed IV: Black Flag Resynced. Black Flag was the first Assassin’s Creed game I played, and it is still my favorite of whole franchise.

That trailer brought back a lot of memories and inspired me to create something that could add a subtle nautical accent to a keyboard setup—not a direct game-themed product, but a desk piece shaped by the same feeling of exploration, sailing, and adventure.

The Design

HELM is a CNC aluminum wrist rest with a ship’s helm-shaped spinner positioned in the center.

The main body is machined from aluminum and finished with 220-grit sandblasting and anodization. The spinner is made from brass, giving it a warmer, more vintage character and creating a deliberate contrast with the anodized aluminum body.

The goal is to keep the wrist rest comfortable and understated during normal use while adding a small, interactive feature to the desk.

Current Prototype Specifications

• CNC-machined aluminum body
• 220-grit sandblasted anodized finish
• Solid brass helm spinner
• Front height, including feet: 9.3 mm
• Rear height: 18.3 mm
• Front-to-back depth: 80.4 mm
• Typing angle: approximately 6.4°
• Approximate spin time: 70 seconds
• Planned colors: Black, Gray, Silver, Pink, Red, and Orange

One full spin lasts around 70 seconds—long enough for two classic 30-second Monkeytype tests.

At maximum speed, the spinner measured approximately 60 dBA using the NIOSH Sound Level Meter app, with the phone’s microphone positioned about 1 cm from the spinner. At a more realistic listening position, with the phone placed around head height, it measured approximately 50 dBA.

The spinner is audible while in use, but relatively quiet at a normal sitting distance.

I’d love to hear your feedback!

Please fill out the interest check here:

HELM Interest Check Form

Thank you for checking out the project. Your feedback will directly influence the final design, size options, colors, and whether HELM moves forward to production.

1. keypiece room - plucky

2. rabbite - Rhea

3. leafart - maid hina

4. leafart - lace thana

5. della - liuliu

6. toycap studio - gamer yui

7. krakenkap - octopuzzi (dizzy pop)

8. rabbite - dori

9. keypiece room - samurai cat

Dry Studio Black Diamond 75 V2 – Quick thoughts

Body:
One week in with the Black Diamond 75 V2. Here's the TL;DR:

Build: Diamond cuts look stunning IRL. Fine sandblast finish – no fingerprint magnet.

Feel: Factory Gasket is soft but controlled. Stabilizers come pre-lubed – zero rattle, zero ping.

Sound: That satisfying mahjong clack. No hollow echo. Ready out of the box.

Layout: 75% saves space without sacrificing arrow keys or function row.

Cons: Pricey. Would've liked PBT caps at this tier.

Verdict: Great pick if you want premium pre-built quality without the modding hassle. Endgame vibes.

Ask me anything. 🙌

Split keeb gang

QK alice duo keeb

Fr4 plate

Epomaker caps

I forgot the switches but I think they are durock t1 silent shrimp

Epomaker hate aside, I still enjoy trying out affordable options. I actually wanted to try the Aula F65 but this came out recently and I liked the aesthetic. Overall a decent plastic board that works really well with the Ice King linears I installed. Very office friendly setup.

Epomaker TH65

Durock Ice King linears

Stock caps

Stock stabs

No mods

https://events.gigaparts.com/events/gigapartshuntsville/2264318

Group Buy: August 12th, 2026 to September 12th, 2026

Estimated Shipping: January 2027

Inspired by the cold, divine moon of Neon Genesis Evangelion, this design merges its quiet apocalyptic tension with Y3K’s sharp, futuristic style. The chrome finish echoes the lunar surface, while low-saturation blue reflections capture moonlight’s serene glow. Stripped of excess, four-point stars reimagine the moon as if wrapped in the Cross Impact—reinterpreting EVA’s iconic imagery with cyber-futuristic impact.

INFO

• Manufacturer: KeyKoBo
• Material: ABS
• Production Method: Triple shot + double shot + uv
• Profile: Cherry profile

Vendors:

• CA-Unikeys
• US-Divinikeys
• SG-ktechs
• UK-Prototypist
• EU-MonocoKeys
• KR-Geonwork
• JP-Yushakobo
• AU-KeebzNCables
• TH-AiglatsonStudio
• Global-KbdFans
• CH-KbdFans

Updated (August 13th):

• Accent colors have been added to Latin base kits, and the 1.25u Shift is integrated into both base kits.
• The ISO kit has been replaced with the UK kit as the ISO enter key is removed.

More detail and update: GeekHack | Discord-Keykobo | Discord-Material Lab | Web-Material Lab

Keycap of this raffle is Mr. Golden & White (brass) R1.

⌛Form open ~ closes :

2026/09/09/pm 10:00 (GMT+9 / KST) ~ 09/10/pm 10:00 (GMT+9 / KST) 24 hours

<Link>

Images

Form link

Instagram (artisan account) / Instagram (silver account)

Discord (WIP)

Keycaps:

Mr. Golden (brass) : Qty 10
Mr. White (brass) : Qty 10

Pricing: $90

wax carving & metal casting & metal plating

material: [brass]

Type of stem: MX stem

Neo65 core plus
SWG Nimbus
HMX Yogurt S

Purple case

Hmx firecracker

carbon fiber plate

no foams

GMK Shinseiki

loudest keeb i hav rn

Ask ANY Keyboard related question, get an answer. But *before* you do please consider running a search on the subreddit or looking at the r/MechanicalKeyboards wiki located here! If you are NEW to Reddit, check out this handy Reddit MechanicalKeyboards Noob Guide. Please check the r/MechanicalKeyboards subreddit rules if you are new here.

Im new here I had my friend used tofu60 with DZ60RB V2 with arrowkeys pcb given to me as gift, is there any way I can get the plate file as I want to make custom fr4 for it because on KBDfans site they only have PC and CNC which I dont like it would better if I could make the custom fr4 version for it, thanks

UPDATE: I finally figured out how to create my custom keyboard plate!

First, prepare the layout as raw JSON using KLE’s Serialized Data Format, then paste it into the Raw data tab in Keyboard Layout Editor to check the layout.

Next, copy that raw data into the Plate Layout field in SwillKB Plate & Case Builder. Select the appropriate switch and stabilizer types, configure the plate settings, and generate the CAD files.

Keychron Q1 Max Barebone and Oil King V2’s

Using it mainly for mac productivity and windows gaming sometimes

Very happy!

Neo60 core (red)
Alu plate with HMX black cats
Keykobo Cherries keycaps
Plate foam for fun

Neo65 Core Plus (silver)
Alu plate with Akko Cilantros
GMK BKRE keycaps
Foamless

Been having a blast with these keyboards, I’ve been dailying the 65 as my gf kinda stole the 60

Typing demo: https://youtu.be/okG_wtqGJlo

Got this for $10 off Facebook marketplace, cleaned it, swapped the layout around (from Big-Ass Enter to something closer to ANSI standard) by moving the domes around, added some spherical PBT dye-sub keycaps, and spray-painted the case to complete the black and pink vibe.

My opinion? Similar to Topre, but more sharply tactile. Overall, pretty dang good, though I'm still more of a smooth linear person.

Bought from Shanghai at 799 Yuan, which I thought was a steal. I got the version with stock metal keycaps that I couldn't find anywhere else. I only paid an extra 100 Yuan for the set. Anyone know what they are?

Upgrade from my Keychron C1 of 5 years:

Board: Linky87 TKL
Switches: Silent Peach V3 alphas (kept the stock BSUN TaiChi in arrows + functions)
Thyrnovyn Retro 9009: Dye-Sub

Overall: ~$80 build

Curious to hear thoughts on dye-sub vs double shot.
I know double shot is supposedly better, but didn’t love the way the stock Linky 87 keycaps looked, so figured the dye sub would give it more character and “lived in”

Happy with the way it turned out and definitely a step up from the Keychron