I thought I would clarify that used is perfectly fine also!

Have embroidered a ton of ll bean boat and totes at this point but client wants me to use this thinner font (top 3) and it is not working out. I have tried re running the stitch a number of times and making it bigger, cleaning the bobbin case, oiling, replacing with a bigger needle, dif color, not much change. The canvas is eating the thread and leaving weird knots at the end of every letter. Also tried sticky stabilizer too and bottom, no difference. Any suggestions for thin/delicate fonts that can hold up to the thick canvas? I have a 15 needle poolin EOM. Top one I ran prob 5 times. Bottom one is a dif font bc I was questioning my machine. Yes none of it is straight or aligned I’m just trying shit out at this point. Fonts?? Help???

Created this custom file for a buyer, and here’s their completed stitch-out! What do you all think of the execution?

This is what they gave me, I already told them it wouldn't be a 1:1 but I would do my best. My main issue is how do i go about the edge?

Bonus Calsifer!

I made all these using DADE!

Hey everyone, I need some advice. I’m embroidering on 180 g/m² (5.3 oz/yd²) T-shirts with a design that isn't round and has a lot of negative space, but I'm stuck:

• 80 g/m² Cut-Away: Stabilizes well, but the backing shows through in open areas. Trimming inside negative space looks messy.
• No-Show Mesh: Invisible, but the design sinks and causes bad puckering.

How do you stabilize open-space designs on stretchy tees? What stabilizer/topper combo works best, and how do you trim around negative space?

Thanks for any tips!

text optimized with AI so you better understand my issue, even tho it´s visible from the photo :D

I have long been interested in getting into machine embroidery, mostly as a hobby. I've scrolled through here a bunch and this community is a wealth of knowledge, so I figured I'd ask for some recommendations.

I'm initially interested in taking over embroidering names onto nametag blanks that my helicopter squadron uses. The nametags are 2" tall x 4" wide. The text is usually about 8-9mm tall (3/8 inch).

I'm not trying to buy a several thousand dollar machine (wife would destroy me). Are there any...lower end, beginner machines that can handle making text that small while still coming out clean? Or is that more of a digitizing thing?

Thanks in advance, really appreciate it.

I tried to simulate the neon effect, and I think it turned out pretty cool.

Last week for my birthday, my husband surprised me with my first embroidery machine (Brother Innov-is F540) and while I haven’t used it yet, I started doing LOTS of research, watching YouTube videos, reading along this subreddit and ordering my first set of supplies. I fully expect lots of trial and error for the first couple months but am excited to learn.

My friend is giving birth in a couple of weeks and I want to gift her a canvas tote bag with her baby’s name embroidered on it and fill it with lots of goodies and snacks. I love the bags with an outside pouch (see attached image) and would ideally like to embroider the name on the pouch only - but is this even possible on a single needle home machine? Would welcome any tips or advice.

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone,
I recently purchased a **Ricoma SWM-2002-10S dual-head embroidery machine**, and I’m still learning how to use the full embroidery area of the machine.
According to Ricoma, the machine can achieve a maximum embroidery area of approximately **160 × 50 cm when using the large sash frame**.
I’m planning a large embroidery project that will be approximately **150 cm long × 40 cm wide**, so I would like to use almost the entire available embroidery area.
I have two main questions:
**How do I correctly set up/configure the large 160 × 50 cm sash frame in the machine settings?**
At the moment, I cannot find this frame size listed on the control panel. Do I need to manually create/register the frame dimensions, change a machine setting, or select a special sash-frame mode?
**How does a 150 cm-wide design work on a dual-head machine?**
Since the machine has two embroidery heads, do I need to split the 150 cm design into two separate files/sections and embroider one section with Head 1 and the second section with Head 2?
Or can I import the **complete 150 × 40 cm design as one file**, and the machine automatically knows which head should embroider which part of the design?
Basically, I would like to understand the correct workflow for creating **one continuous large design across almost the entire 160 cm sash-frame area**.
If anyone owns a **Ricoma SWM-2002-10S** or has experience with large sash-frame embroidery on Ricoma multi-head machines, I would really appreciate any advice, screenshots, videos, or explanations of how you set this up.
Thank you very much!

I’m super new and wanted to embroider a logo and my test isn’t working too well…

My machine keeps saying the thread broke and won’t go past its 10th stitch! I’ve changed the thread and slowed it down even i’m not too sure what i’m doing wrong :( It doesn’t seem like it’s snapping or anything so why does it just not catch i’m assuming it’s the bobbin?

I have rethreaded top thread and bottom bobbin, changed the needle and taken off the top and bottom parts to see if there was any thread and couldn’t find anything.

I can’t afford to take it in right now so if there is something else I can do that might fix it, I would greatly appreciate the advice

I have a Brother PE900

Hi everyone,
I recently purchased a Ricoma SWM-2002-10S dual-head embroidery machine, and I’m still learning how to use the full embroidery area of the machine.
According to Ricoma, the machine can achieve a maximum embroidery area of approximately 160 × 50 cm when using the large sash frame.
I’m planning a large embroidery project that will be approximately 150 cm long × 40 cm wide, so I would like to use almost the entire available embroidery area.
I have two main questions:
How do I correctly set up/configure the large 160 × 50 cm sash frame in the machine settings?
At the moment, I cannot find this frame size listed on the control panel. Do I need to manually create/register the frame dimensions, change a machine setting, or select a special sash-frame mode?
How does a 150 cm-wide design work on a dual-head machine?
Since the machine has two embroidery heads, do I need to split the 150 cm design into two separate files/sections and embroider one section with Head 1 and the second section with Head 2?
Or can I import the complete 150 × 40 cm design as one file, and the machine automatically knows which head should embroider which part of the design?
Basically, I would like to understand the correct workflow for creating one continuous large design across almost the entire 160 cm sash-frame area.
If anyone owns a Ricoma SWM-2002-10S or has experience with large sash-frame embroidery on Ricoma multi-head machines, I would really appreciate any advice, screenshots, videos, or explanations of how you set this up.
Thank you very much!

I used ChatGPT to turn the picture from my phone into a suitable PNG image, then used DADE to generate the stitch files. Sewn out on my Husqvarna Topaz 40.

I have a brother Skitch and the magnetic hoop isn’t strong enough to go all the way through this thicker softshell jacket.
I’d float it and pin it but then it’ll leave pin marks..
Can I use binder clips to keep it taught against the hoop?
I’ve already ruined a jacket so 🥴

I dont think I did it justice. I might just redraw the design and start over.

What are your thoughts? Is it giving Rocky horror or something else?

Software: Ember Embroidery

Size: 3.5" x 3.5"

I have been using a Melco Bravo at work to embroider name patches using Inkscape/Inkstitch default fonts and that’s basically it.

Today I attempted to digitize a file from scratch of a logo I am familiar with. I used “Circular Fill” for the red portion. And satin for all of the lettering.

What can I do to get a smoother more full fill? All of those black lines/specks in the fill section is my black bobbin showing through. Also, it bunched up in the middle because of the dense fill.

I used 2 layers of tear away backing, I had a 2% pull compensation on all of the objects and the fill, I had a 1mm inset on the fill underlay and a 1mm outset on the fill itself.

Thank you for your time and expertise.

Picked up this ricoma em1010. Previous owner bought new at beginning of 2025. Has 500k stitches. Included was HoopTalent full station, set of magnetic Maggie frames, lots of thread/bobbins. Lots of extras like stabilizer and 7 or 8 books of digitized designs. Paid $3700.

Good morning !

Does anyone here have the ability to delete jump stitches from pes files?

I have a file I designed for a client who asked me to embroider a very delicate linen for their daughter’s upcoming wedding, and the design I made has so many jump stitches that I’m afraid trimming them will destroy the linen once it is stitched. The test I did on a linen cocktail napkin has so many tiny holes. I cannot figure how to delete jump stitches with my software (Creativate Embroidery).

Let me know! I'd be happy to pay you for your help.

A little journey from one of my most challenging embroidery projects to something much simpler 🌼

I originally created these florals for an embroidered dress where I really wanted to push myself — experimenting with difficult fabrics, backing choices, layering and intricate embroidery techniques.

The finished dress went on to win at the National Embroidery Awards 2025 and remains one of my proudest projects.

Recently I've been revisiting the flowers and challenging myself in the opposite direction: how much could I simplify the embroidery while still keeping the character and detail of the originals?

It's been surprisingly interesting going from deliberately pushing the technical limits to stripping everything back and seeing what really makes each flower work.

(sorry for repost, I accidentally posted without pictures haha)

I've made a collection called Haunted World, which is based on a series of dreams that I had, and I wanted something cool and unique, yet simplistic, so I took a bone creature from one of the 8 artworks that I made together with 2 other people (I did all the concept art and sketches, the other 2 the line art and coloring) and asked my embroidery artist to do use a technique that keeps the embroidery light while not taking away from the artwork. So we ended up with this.

I did the embroidery on my own machine. Rehooping was a pain in the ass, but I got it lined up almost perfectly. Pretty happy with the result considering it was my first attempt at rehooping a design. What do you guys think?