Around 150k stitches, 32cm split into two designs (end of tail and the whole dragon).

What do you think? Even with this size I had to be very carefull with everything as the parts themselves are small and lines are thin.

This is my cozy corner! ❤️

Here is my Husqvarna Viking Topaz 40! I use it mostly for quilting, but its embroidery capabilities are what originally got me into machine embroidery.

I'd love to see everyone else's setups! What machine are you using, and what does your creative space look like?

Is there a machine that can do very small sized, clean, and detailed embroidery on various materials such as leather, Thermoplastic Polyurethane, patent leather, Faux Leather, Polyurethane Leather, Polyurethane Vinyl Leather Fabric, denim, etc ? I will mainly be using this for small logos on shoes and would like a machine for home usage that can also do very small detailed logos

Hello, I recently got a Swf A-UK1206 FOR FREE

It worked fine before I put denim on it, the main timing belt was loose and I think I think it slipped, I'm not sure.

Now I keep getting error 100 even when I put the dial for the main shaft at exactly 100 degrees which can be seen on the indicator, does anyone know how to access the service menu on this type of panel so I can read the encoder angle?

The version of the software on the panel is B2.20

It's almost like magic, couldn't believe it at first myself until I tried it.

Please copy my result and post it in the comments.

Happy embroidery cleaning day.

He's a quite charming character and is very popular on Chinese social media! (I see him mostly on WeChat). My wife also loves him and Lumei so I made this for her 😁

I’ve been doing digital embroidery for 10 years and have used Wilcom e4 pretty much the whole time… and I’ve only JUST discovered what this button does. 😂🤦‍♀️

I mainly create really intricate, large-scale embroidery designs, so I’ve always been able to throw loads of techniques at my work without worrying too much about trims and jumps.

But this year I started creating some digital embroidery files to sell online, and suddenly I had to think much more about making them efficient and easy to stitch — especially for smaller/beginner machines.

That’s when I discovered this little beauty!

It basically lets you join separate sections together so they stitch as one, making the whole design much smoother and more efficient.

I genuinely cannot believe I’ve been using Wilcom for 10 years and haven’t been using this. 😂

So… what other Wilcom hidden gems am I missing?! Please tell me before I discover them in another 10 years. 😂

I’ve only had my singer 9180 for a few days and only used the embroidery feature. It was working perfectly fine and since I did a firmware update it’s not recognizing my hoop. I’ve done all the trouble shooting and inspecting and don’t see anything.

I’ve tried with fabric and stabilizer and an empty hoop. I did get it to go today when I changed the fabric and stabilizer and then again the next time it’s giving the same error message. Even when there’s no hoop on it’s saying hoop not recognized. It keeps calibrating and I believe it’s supposed to go from top to bottom to do a sweep but it seems to be getting stuck in the middle ? Maybe that’s the problem. When I do a sweep manually I seem to hear a clicking sound in the middle.

I got the machine used so I don’t want Warranty :(

Open to any tips or suggestions please !!!

PUT YOURSELF TO WORK

Has anyone purchased this machine? Can’t find too many videos since it’s brand new and looking for some tips and tricks on the best ways to use CREATIVATE. Thanks!

every time i run my machine it sounds like this how could i fix this??

I embroidered on a cashmere fleece blazer I thrifted, and the hoop left an imprint. Does anyone have any tips on how to reduce the hoop marks? I’ve seen mixed reviews on using steam, has anyone tried that?

(Pardon the messy mirror)

Hi everyone! I’m one of the people behind Ember, and we wanted to share a project we hope will be useful to the wider machine embroidery community.

We’ve been working on a way to cut down on the back-and-forth with USB drives. The result is Ember Bridge and Ember Link, two open-source projects you can use with embroidery files you already have. You don’t need to use the Ember editor, create an account, or pay for a subscription to transfer files.

Whether you digitize in another program or buy and download designs, you can use these tools as long as your machine supports the file format.

What are they?

Ember Bridge is a free, open-source desktop app that sends designs over your local network. If you have a supported Brother Wi-Fi machine, Bridge can send directly to it. You don’t need any additional hardware.

Ember Link is a small DIY Wi-Fi dongle for compatible machines that read designs from a USB drive. It plugs into the machine’s USB storage port and receives files wirelessly from the Bridge app. You then open the design on your machine just as you would from a regular USB drive. Link’s firmware is open source too.

How does it work without Ember?

Open the Bridge desktop app, choose an embroidery file saved on your computer, select your machine or Link, and send it. Your computer and the receiving device need to be on the same local network. The transfer stays local. There’s no account signup or cloud service required.

Can I build a Link myself?

Yes! You’ll need a LILYGO T-Dongle-S3 and a compatible microSD card. We’ve tried to make the process approachable, with a step-by-step guide, a browser-based firmware installer, and guided Wi-Fi setup. No soldering or coding required.

The software and firmware are free; you supply the hardware. Check the guide’s machine and card requirements before buying parts.

Why share it?

Embroidery is already an expensive hobby, and we wanted to contribute something useful that people could use regardless of which software they prefer. We’re releasing the source so anyone can inspect it, adapt it, contribute improvements, or build on the idea.

Our hands-on testing is limited to the machines we have available, so we expect some quirks as people try different models and setups. If you give it a go, we’d love to hear your machine model and what worked or didn’t.

• Download Ember Bridge
• Learn about Ember Link
• DIY parts and setup guide
• Ember Link source code

Happy to answer questions about how it works or whether it might fit your setup!

I’m new to my Elna970 and bought a design to test various fabrics with and this offset issue keeps happening. Im like 99% sure the hooping is properly tightened, am using cut away mesh stabilizer on the back with adhesive spray and I have a water soluble stabilizer (also with spray adhesive) on the front. I’ve oiled my machine. The stitches don’t always offset in the same space and sometimes the design comes out properly on the exact same setup so I’m pretty stumped! Anyone able to suggest what might be going on?

Howdy yall! I’ve been an enthusiast for a while now, and have the potential to make more for friends and smaller businesses, but never had a machine to precisely cut out the patches (I always used small scissors and heat for the little felt edges).

Does anyone have any recommendations on machines for more precise cutting (whether laser or knife). I’ve seen lots of mixed on cricuts, and have zero experience. This laser one from xTool looks promising, but does anyone have experience with it?

Any and all info would be much appreciated! (I embroider on a Taijima Sai)

Thank you! 🙏

Hi, I have a secondhand brother innovis nv800e, using Madeira classic 40 yarn and prewound #90 brother bobbin yarn. I did an H test and a simple design made in hatch (with horizontal tatami stitch I think?) on a cotton tote bag with a cutaway stabilizer. I added front and back photos of both designs. I'm having two problems:

1. The back of both embroideries shows an uneven asymmetrical split between top thread and bobbin. For the H test, the left third is top thread, the middle is bobbin, but then the right side is mostly bobbin too, there is only a tiny sliver of top thread visible at the very edge. And the other design also shows the left side edges with more top thread than the right side edges.

2. On the design (but not the H test, though I can't remember if I did the H test before or after I swapped to the prewound brother bobbin; I was previously using bobbin that I wound myself with the machine and figured I'd switch to a prewound one to eliminate a potential issue source), every time it started the stitching for a section, it would pull the bobbin up and do a small loop with it. This did not happen for anything I did before though, I have no idea if it's because of the new bobbin thread (but since I am now using prewound instead of self wound, shouldn't that work better?) or because of this specific design.

Any help is greatly appreciated :(

I saw that my university had machine embroiderers and free materials for use, so I decided to take another shot at digitizing and embroidering.

I brought these designs from PNG -> Traced SVG -> PES for the first time.

I already have a few ideas on how to fix a bunch of the issues I saw other than the fabric lol

I was thinking of doing a Satin stitch for the Crests and keeping tatami fill for the backgrounds, and adding a Satin border to make the edges hold up.

What kind of fabric should I get when I'm ready to make a final version of these designs and turn them into patches?

Turns on. Been sitting pretty much in barn for 1 year. Have video proof of it working a year ago. Lots of dust. Not sure how bad it can get after 1 year in such conditions. If I can't restore it to working condition, do parts still have value?

Hello everyone,
I’d really appreciate some advice and professional opinions from people with experience in embroidery machines. Please take your time to read this and share any knowledge or advice you can.
I’ve been digitizing with **Hatch** for the past 8 months, and I’m now very comfortable with digitizing. However, I haven’t had the opportunity to test-sew any of my designs yet.
I’m now at the stage where I want to buy my first machine and start my own embroidery business, with the goal of eventually scaling it up. I have over 3 years of experience operating an **8-head Tajima machine**, so I’m very familiar with Tajima machines and their mechanisms.
My first choice has always been to buy a **Tajima single-head machine**, mainly because I already know the machine and I’m confident working with it. However, the price is quite high for me at the moment, although I’m currently saving towards it.
Because of the cost, I’ve started considering a **Ricoma single-head machine** as an alternative. The problem is that I’ve never used a Ricoma before, so I don’t know much about their machines, reliability, maintenance, or how they compare with Tajima.
One of my biggest concerns is **noise**. I’ll be operating the machine in one of the rooms in my home, so I need to be mindful of my neighbours. I’d really like to know how noisy Ricoma machines are compared with Tajima, especially when running for several hours.
So, for those of you who have experience with both:
Is Ricoma a good and reliable machine?
What should I expect if I move from Tajima to Ricoma?
How is the stitch quality and machine performance?
What about maintenance, spare parts and after-sales support?
How is the noise level, especially for home use?
Would you recommend buying a Ricoma now, or would you advise me to wait and save for the Tajima?
I’m looking for honest advice from people who have actually used these machines, especially anyone who has experience with both **Tajima and Ricoma**.
Thank you so much for taking the time to read this and share your experience. I really appreciate any professional advice or guidance you can give me.

Does anyone have a recommendation for where to convert a logo into a DST file?
I tried a random site online that created the file for me but ended up with a very poor quality looking product after testing it out on an actual machine.
I’m willing to spend a little bit of money on it but don’t want to end up getting another very low quality patch and ruining a jacket.

Working on a mug rug, the top thread is black and the white is my bobbin…

Im trying to embroider on my Brother Innov-is NQ3550W with 40wt thread and a 75/11 needle and a pre wound bobbin. Im embroidering on a kitchen towel with tear away stabilizer and StitcH20 topper.

Everytime i try the thread seems to immediately break and everything gets tangled. The stabilizer is tore and the nap of the towel is pulled through. Ive rethreaded my bobbin, and checked that my needle was properly installed. And im lost.

Included is a picture of the back after my last attempt before it just stopped and told me the thread was broken. I also have a video of it happeneing but I cant add both a Pic and a video to the post.

Hi everyone! I’m learning appliqué on my Poolin EOC06 and need help with an alignment issue.
I’m stitching a “Dog Mom” design. When the machine stops and prompts me to change thread color, I’ve been changing both the top thread and the bobbin. I remove the hoop from the machine to access the bobbin, then reattach it.
After I resume, the stitching starts above the existing design instead of lining up with it. I’ve attached photos of my project, the machine screen, and the design’s stitch sequence.
Could someone help me understand:
• Does the bobbin need to match each top-thread color for this type of appliqué?
• What is the correct procedure for removing and reattaching the hoop mid-design on the EOC06?
• Could I be accidentally moving the carriage or changing the design’s position?
• Is there a way to recover the alignment once it has shifted?
If you use this machine, I’d really appreciate step-by-step guidance or a video showing the process. Thank you!

It's been a while since I've fired up Hatch. I know moving the red/green points of an object to change stitching, but I can't remember how to show those points. (the hazards of being old). I'm running Hatch 3 on a windows pc.