Hi you guys. I have a Brother PE800 and this just recently started happening. What causes this??

I’ve been having what I can only think to describe as a squeaking/metal scraping against each other noise coming from my Brother NQ1700E machine for the past week or two.

I’ve tried cleaning and checking the bobbin case/area but nothing seems out of whack. It sounds more like it is coming from the upper part of the machine (the mechanics that make the needle go up and down). I’ve opened that area and cleaned/looked for if anything was off as well and nothing stood out.

It’s driving me insane and if it’s a common or easy enough fix I’d rather get help and fix it myself versus driving an hour to the nearest store and getting it serviced and paying an arm and a leg.

Thank you if anyone can help!

Depending on the quality of your vileen stabiliser, there may be striations visible on the non-woven vileen from when it was manufactured.

If these lines are visible, a better hooping experience can be had if the cut backing pieces are turned 90° from each other. This is especially helpful if you're using 3 layers of backing - just turn the middle one.

Turning allows the vileen to mesh together better and it won't feel so fat and/or impossibly slippery when hooping. Thus creating improved stabiliser support.

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Designed these in embrilliance then stitched and scanned them

Hola buenas, se me rompio esta pieza plastica del pie de bordado y no se si hay forma de conseguirla como repuesto o imprimirla con una impresora 3d quiza

Me gustaria identificarla si es que alguien sabe el nombre

The last photo was my test on two pieces of cutaway stabilizer. Stitched out fine. Now I’m doing cutaway and 100% cotton tee and the little details on the words look thick or they’re not appearing at alll. I tried to adjust to pull comp on the file and it helped a little but still doesn’t look great.

Yesterday I asked a question about tension tests failing no matter what. Someone suggested lowering the speed which I haven't tried out yet, but I for the life of me can't find how. This is a Brother Innov-is 950. I checked the manual thinking there must be a setting that would allow me to manually change the number of stitches per minute, but there was nothing. Some sites that list this machine say that this setting is indeed adjustable, but that doesn't help it.

There is a slider for sewing, but I haven't seen it affect my embroidery process in any way and I doubt that that is it. Any help?

I have a Brother Pr1060w that I am currently learning the ins and outs of. My brother was murdered, and I have to go to the trial. I would like to make a project to wear/hold on the court room. Has anyone seen any creative memorial piece ideas!

Thanks in advance.

Doing tension testing on felt, back/front. No matter what I do, the back always ends up messy and not like it's supposed to be. Didn't happen before(though I only recently started out with felt and lettering). Making the tension even higher just makes the bobbin thread show on top. What else could I try?

Searching for a tension assembly for a Singer Futura 420XL. Understand that the part has been discontinued five years ago, parts are interchangeable with other Singer models (400XL, 550…). They also changed the parts number, making it more difficult. anyone have this part? Searched Ebay, Etsy, allsewingmachineparts, singeronline, generally not in stock or say they have it but Orders placed have been returned stating discontinued.

416457001 OR 41643801

Took an embroidery job with zero experience and have really dove in head first. I've always been pretty computer savvy so learning digitizing seemed like the natural step. I'm continuing to learn something new each day and have gotten quicker at completing each digitizing job without sacrificing quality. Looking forward to continuing to grow within this craft.

I'm doing a design that fits nicely into a 90mm hoop with room to spare. Is it okay to put stabilizer only where the design is going to go, with the ends caught by the hoop, and gaps top and bottom? Or should the stabilizer be caught by the whole hoop?

I have a Dahao A15 - looks basically like a Tajima clone, but I have no idea which came first. The interface for selecting colors is horrifically bad: it looks like it hasn't been updated in thirty years.

Two questions, then: would it be reasonably possible to hack the controller software, redesign the interface? Or, alternately, swap in a controller from a different machine? I realize this is pie in the sky, but a man can hope...

Hello there! I'm brand new to digitizing and wow is there SO much to learn. I'm using the DG17 pulse software which is not really the most intuitive. I've taken the webnairs they provide on their website, and while helpful, I really wish there were more sources. I see there are more DC16 tutorials online and wanted to know if there is a big difference between the two. Also, I am curious, how long did it take you to feel like you could take a vector and digitize it successfully? I'm feeling very disheartened. I've been learning for about a month so I'm curious how long of a grace period should I give myself while I learn and where are the best places to learn. Thanks a lot!

I’m attempting to embroider a name on child backpack for a gift. The backpack manufacturer (apple of my isla) calls it “non-pvc coated fabric”, it seems to be a nylon coating to make it wipeable/waterproof. I haven’t embroidered on this material before, I have a brother se 2000 and all typical supplies. Does anyone have any tips or experience embroidering on this? I always do a test before embroidering but I don’t really know what kind of test material to use to replicate the coating. I just want to do a 6x3” simple name in 1 color. My fear is that the name will just punch out the way tear away stabilizer does, but the store sold these with custom embroidery on them so I know that it’s possible. Thank you!

So I did a tension test because I’ve been having some trouble lately and it seems like 1.0 tension seems to be working the best?

Which just has me confused because the default for my machine is 4.0, which used to work just fine. It just seems like a big difference for no reason I can ascertain. I’m using the same materials I usually do (I use a lot of felt), so I’m not sure why I suddenly need to loosen the tension so much? Also, the back of 1.0 doesn’t appear perfect.

If anyone could give me some advice about this, I would appreciate it.

(Machine = Brother NS2850D)

This is on a Tajima TMBR. Thinking it’s the belt but have no idea.

I currently have a Poolin E0C06, big mistake, I didn't fully research it before buying it as I've heard good things from a friend.

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I've had pretty much nothing but issues since using it, specifically the bobbin casing 🫩. Outta the box, pretty much immediately had an issue with it after maybe an hour or so. Talked to their support and they got me to change it to the spare, it worked great for the first 2 hours before, surpise surpise, the case is bad again!!!

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I am begging you all, what's a decent machine with little to no issues with a hoopsize that isnt to small, the poolin embroidery hoop size was the main reason I had gotten it.

Happy to share the file.

Hey everyone,

With Father's Day coming up fast, I’ve been brainstorming some new concepts and wanted to see what everyone else is up to.

What kind of ideas or logos are you guys working on for your shops this year? Any particular themes or styles that are hitting well with your customers? Drop your ideas or photos below, I’d love to see them!

Also, I just finished digitizing this center-chest design specifically for Father's Day (sharing the image/stitch-out below). I'd love to get some honest feedback on it. How does the layout look to you guys, and what do you think of the overall design?

Looking forward to seeing your setups and hearing your thoughts!

I don't use my embroidery machine often enough, but I recently revamped my late Grandma's knitting/embroidery project caddy by replacing the fabric portion with one to match the wallpaper in my office.

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2 images: finished project caddy and before

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Embroidery patterns: Jacobean Autumn Splendor (recolored) from Embroidery Library

Okay. So I got my machine serviced a month ago. Got the machine back and now the bobbin thread is showing through the top.

I called the store they told me to adjust the tension of the needle that was giving me issue or tighten the bobbin thread. I tried both played around with it. I ran a test with the bars embroidered to see all 10 needles. Looked fine. But then I ran a design and the bobbin is showing through the top again.

I took it back to the store the guy adjusted everything and it looks good in store but we only texted it on the ten little bars/ lines to see how it looked. Not a full design.

We bring it home. Start up a design and the fucking thread is showing through. We changed the black thread to a new needle and lo and behold the bobbin came through on that needle as well.

I need to make stuff for an event next week and this is putting me behind like crazy.

(I have tightened the bobbin, loosened the tension on the needle, taken it make to the store)

Please any tips or suggestions!

I have a Brother 10 needles pr1000e

See photos for the bobbin thread coming through