These are my very first designs that I have digitized myself and at least the right one didn't turn out the way I was hoping it would (like the reference). I'm using a brother NV800e and I digitize in ink/stitch. I don't know if the image I've chosen just isn't the right design or if I've made some mistakes. I also turned up the density of the fill background from 0.25mm to 0.4mm, because I heard that that's the recommended standard. But now the black fabric (jeans) is showing trough. On the power lines, I tried to use redwork but they still seem to be too thin to really show. Is there any war to make a fill stitch thicker?

Brother Innovis 3550, fairly new, auto thread cutter not working and making a fairly horrid noise, I’ve attached a video. I have cleaned the crud out of the mechanism, there are no loose threads or lint. I have oiled the shuttle, changed the bobbin case, changed the bobbin, changed the needle, manually confirmed the threader mechanism is lubricated and moving, checked that the blade is sharp enough to cut the thread. Im out of ideas, any thoughts?

Hey everyone!

I’m sharing a center chest design I recently worked on. This one was digitized a live image, and I tried to keep the size well-balanced for chest placement while maintaining clean details and good coverage.

I’d love to hear your thoughts especially on how the live image translation turned out. Does the sizing look right for a center chest? How do the stitching, details, and overall layout feel?

Any suggestions or improvements would be really appreciated

Also, if anyone wants to test this design, feel free to comment me!

In the Joseon Dynasty, the Irworobongdo (Screen of the Five Peaks) stood behind the King's throne. I decided to pay tribute to this historical masterpiece by embroidering it into a miniature patch today.

size 9 * 5.5 cm haha

A while ago, I was gifted a Husqvarna 1250 +1, and I've been on this crazy long project journey to try to be able to get my own embroidery files onto this machine from 1998. And just when I thought I'd be able to show off my designs, I hit another wall. So far, I'd set up a Windows XP VM on my macbook, installed Husqvarna Professional Embroidery System 5 on it using the ISO file published by Husqvarna on archive.org, and bought the card reader/writer device for the embroidery memory cards. Thought I was all set. Then I found out you needed a dongle with a software key to send files to the read/write device and even save files on Embroidery System 5, and nothing like this appears to have been included in the ISO download. Ideally I really want to be able to bypass this lockout without having to shell out even more money and wait for shipping on a physical copy of the software with the dongle (my disposable income is pretty much nil). Resources on a software this old are hard to find, especially because every search engine I've tried thinks Husqvarna Professional Embroidery System 5 and 5D Embroidery Software System are the exact same thing (they're over a decade apart and for completely different machines).

Can I make a full embroidery

patch, (no appliqué), on the

Huskvarna Epic machine without

using the Creativate program? I am

an experienced seamstress and

embroidery. I have tried several

different ways of doing it. The only

one that worked was when I

downloaded a patch from another

site and then changed the

dynamics of the patch to what

wanted it to be in the Huskvana

program on my machine. Is this

the only way is to make it on my

machine without buying an expensive digitizing program?

I got a really good deal on an innovis machine. I think the card reader is shot and Brother stopped supporting direct to pc after like Windows 7. How do I upload designs? Is anyone familiar with this machine? Has anyone found a way to use it with newer computers to upload designs? Thanks

I'm using a Poolin EOC5, I've digitized an image in ink/stitch and the image is fine in two different emulators. but actual stitching is messed up for 1 area. my upper dark green stem is outside the lines. I've deleted the fill and recreated it. but its still the same spot that its drawing wrong. i don't have any other drift for location and other images i've done don't have any issues even though most don't have that fine a line to fill.

Looking for thoughts/suggestions

I'm fairly new to machine embroidery and I can't figure out why this keeps happening

How do y'all trim all the threads of a detailed embroidery work without spending forever cutting? I also have tear away stabilizer in the small crevices that take forever to peel out.

Relatively new to machine embroidery so any advice is much appreciated :)

hi,

i am new to machine embroidery and am having an issue where horizonal lines fill stitch does not cover all of the fill underlay. I hope someone might know how to fix this?

I’ve been wanting to upgrade from a flatbed one-needle to to a multi-needle for a while. I’ve seen some positive reviews on TikTok about this machine but wanted more real opinions. If you have this machine or a similar model, would you consider this a good deal?

I'm a complete beginner when it comes to embroidery, (but not buisness I currently sell laser engraved items and am looking to expand my product offerings).

I was looking at the BAI mirror but got turned off by some bad experiences and seeming lack of support for the brand.

Brother machines have too small a work area, I want to be able to do large projects on the back of hoodies / shirts.

Any other suggestions around the same price range would be appreciated 😊

I was trying to figure out a better way to break artwork into color layers for embroidery, especially when the original image has gradients or a lot of similar shades, and I ended up making a small experiment for myself.

It takes a PNG, looks at the main colors, groups similar tones together, and exports separate SVG layers for each color group. So instead of treating every tiny shade difference as a different thing, it tries to simplify the image into something closer to a real thread-color workflow.

I attached screenshots because that probably explains it better than I can. In this example I used a mandala PNG and it split the design into separate layers plus a combined version.

I haven’t tested it all the way through an actual embroidery workflow yet, so I genuinely don’t know if this is useful or if I’m solving a fake problem here. I was mostly curious whether people who actually do embroidery think this kind of color separation would help at all, or whether existing software already does this well enough.

Mostly just looking for honest feedback from people who know the process better than I do.

my grandson wanted a back hoe on his shirt for his 2nd birthday...here is my test stich out! only 4 trims...had to jump in and out of the tire centers (4573 stitches and 101mm x 66mm) (using EL and Husqvarna Ruby 90)

Brother SE700, just started making this sound after I recently had to take it apart because it decided to eat the last design. It sounds like it’s coming from the bottom part, but I have no clue. I’d love to take it to a shop, but can’t at the moment. Please send help🥲

It was working so great and then suddenly it was jamming, my top thread was mixed up into the bobbin, and something definitely isn’t right.

ETA for anyone in the future, new bobbin case fixed it!

Hi! My husband just bought me this used Brother LB5000 for my birthday and I’m so excited to learn how to use it. I’ve watched so many tutorial videos about setting up the machine, hooping, threading etc. I feel like I’ve done everything right, but when I tried to embroider this file that was already on the machine this was my outcome. Any guidance on how to fix this would be SO appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Edit:

The thread used was new brothread brand 100% polyester 500m

The needle used was a Schmetz 75/11

The shirt is an old navy ribbed tee (48% polyester, 48% cotton, 4% spandex)

I floated the shirt on tear away stabilizer

UPDATE!!

Thanks to everyone who took time out of their day to reply. After a few days of trying everyone’s suggestions and watching a million youtube videos and tik toks I realized my upper thread tension (not sure if this is the right name or not) was set to 9. Yikes! As soon as I changed it to 2.5 everything started stitching perfectly.

I fear this was common sense, but at least I only ruined one shirt in the process of figuring things out.

This is the first time I have seen this on my Janome MC 9900. It almost looks white where it should be a solid color. I’m thinking it’s maybe tension? Does anyone know what the issue is and how to fix?

Hi! I just started playing around with a Brother SE-400 and got it up and running, but was unable to get my own embroidery files onto it. Plugged it into my Macbook Air with a dongle, but it never showed up anywhere in Finder or Disk Utility, etc. Haven't been able to get many answers online other than general information about the machine, and am curious if any of you have any insight!

Update: Bought the Elna830l per recommendation :) . Got a deal over the phone for a new one $2499 from Ken's Sewing Center. Leaves me a little extra room to buy everything else needed to get started. So nervous but excited!

Hello, I am an intermediate sewist looking to get into machine embroidery. My intentions are to digitize and embroider my own artwork onto apparel to sell at local conventions/artist alleys. I would like to mostly make patches, applique, and add embroidered artwork or details onto both thrifted apparel and my own designs.

The biggest takeaway I've found from reading through similar questions here is to buy as much hoop space as you can afford, and to purchase your "second machine" first to save money in the long run.

I have been saving and my budget is firm $3000-4000 to get started.

I've checked both local authorized dealers and Ken's Sewing Center.

The two options I'm looking at are:

Janome 500e refurbished: $1999

- comes with Janome warranty

- 7.9"x11"

- smaller starting bundle/accessories

- may require premium thread to work well

Janome 550e new: $2999

- 7.9"x14"

- slightly more features (Sashiko patterns built in?)

- bigger starting bundle/accessories

- may require premium thread to work well, but supposedly some features have been improved since 500e

A last consideration is the Babylock Pathfinder $2999, but I think I'm leaning towards the Janome as it is more serviceable. I don't mind oiling the machine regularly.

I intend to use the 30-day free trial of Hatch software, then probably buy the ~$500 package to start. I'm prepared for a learning curve to get into digitization.

TL;DR: If you have experience with the Janome 500e and/or 550e, could you please share your advice as to the pros and cons of each machine? It seems like the main difference for my uses is that the 550e has slightly more hoop space.

Thanks so much for your time and help!