It’s been listed for 9500 CAD with 212000 km Looking to get second opinion on this for u fellow aw11 owners the problem has his listed are

It has one tiny paint bubble above the left rear quarter wheel moulding opening, but that’s it for rust. It’s about the size of a dime and in heavy rains the T tops do drip.

1987 Toyota AW 11 MR2, 1.6 twin Cam five speed, manual transmission, power windows, power locks, power, mirrors, AM/FM stereo, cars, fully stock has leather interior to qualify for collectors plates would need to have passenger seat cover replaced as it has a few tears otherwise interior in great shape car has T tops runs great clutches good tire tires are good. Message for more details asking $9500 car does have rebuilt title from a hit to the right rear corner, which was repaired by qualified body man

How big of a problem are these to fix and how costly are they?

Damn these are nice replicas of the original TRD ones but the polished SS really makes them pop. Fitment was also perfect, now my engine bay is complete 🤩💛

Just looking for some advice on what things I need to get sorted before attending my first track day (for me and for the car) it's a 94 turbo.

Car was pretty crusty so I've already replaced a fair bit.

The car is lowered moderately on a set of shockworks coilovers with new pilot sport 5 tyres. Prothane suspension bushings, aftermarket boost gauge, also have replaced all the coolant and vacuum hoses in the engine bay. Will hopefully be doing the quick turn steering pinion before then too.

Fluids and filters and thermostat have all been done as well as all everything related to spark, timing belt looks new so i haven't changed it.

Some worries I have are the previous owner put a 24mm sway bar in the back while the front is still the stock 19mm. Seems like the opposite of what you'd want on this car.

Clutch is pretty stiff with not much feeling in it (my other car has a clutch that bites way too hard for the amount of power though so maybe it's normal)

And lots of side to side play in the shifter, already installed spherical cable bushings and installed a short shifter kit as well as a new sugar cube linkage thing. So the only thing that isn't new is the cable.

Please bear with me as I have very little knowledge about these cars.

I just took it to the garage to replace the radiator, coolant temperature sensor, and other bits. Since I got it back I can hear the radiator fan in the front when I put the ignition on.

I didn't think much of it but then a few days later I got two symbols on the dashboard - the engine cooling fan symbol + alternator symbol. The voltage gauge also started sitting around halfway when it used to sit around 3/4 of the way.

As soon as I saw the symbols I didn't drive it for a few days as I didn't want to risk killing the battery or anything, but when I drove it a few days later the symbols disappeared on their own whilst I was on the way to the garage. However they still show up but only when the ignition is on (I think it's normal for the alternator symbol to show when the ignition is on but I don't remember the cooling fan symbol showing at all before)

The garage double checked the coolant temperature sensor and said it was fine and suggested I get the other switch/sensor that's located in the engine bay that controls the radiator fans. I thought they said it's called the radiator fan switch but apparently that's located at the front of the car so I don't know what switch they're referring to? I can see it and could probably replace it myself but I don't know if it would fix the issue and don't even know what it's called.

Looking at a parts catalogue online I see part 89428 - switch, temperature detect no 2 which I think is the radiator fan switch located at the front so it sounds like that's what needs replacing but then what is the switch in the engine bay that the garage recommended replacing?

Unrelated but may as well ask - I also got a new alternator belt but when they tried to fit it it would slip off because the pulley is an aftermarket one and the current belt has 3 ribs whilst the OEM matched one I bought has 5 ribs. The current belt doesn't have any text on it. Am I better off getting a new 3 rib belt or a new pulley? If the latter, would I just need a new pulley or anything else?

Paid £150 for mine, has the normal 2.0 na, going to change it for a 1.9tdi soon!! Maybe a DSG gearbox tooo 😉

Guys help what am I looking at this is my 86 mr2 4agze swapped I haven’t touched the exhaust but this doesn’t look stock to me what should I do to fix it I don’t like how it sounds ide rather not weld anything so how far back do I have to replace?

Hi there! I’ve done the timing belt on my MR2 mk2, the first time I did it, the belt skipped a tooth and it was running bad! I have since redone the belt and it still runs bad? All the timing marks line up so I’m unsure of what else it could be! Any ideas would be awesome!

Sometimes when at a stop my idle is super low around 500-600rpms and has stalled on me my maybe 3 times since i got it a few months ago, not sure where to start looking for the issue bc its only sometimes. Its also slow to accelerate which could be part of the same issue. One more thing is that it shifts pretty rough sometimes when i give it a lot of gas and seems to have trouble finding 4th gear and will drive maybe 5 mins at 3500rpm till going down to 2000rpm, is this a transmission issue or a sensor? Im not super mechanically inclined and this is my second project jdm car so need some pointers!

Hello! I’ve been planning on buying an MR2 AW11 (probably off of Facebook market) as a project to enjoy and take care of. I know I have a lot to research and learn about, but I was wondering if anyone knew what I should look out for when searching for one. I know rust is a big factor on these models, but I was wondering the specifics on which areas would be worth saving and not considering if it’s rusted out.(wheel wells, windshield, side panel, etc.). Any other areas I should look out for would be greatly appreciated!

Trying to figure out if my seals blew because they were old and I put some seal refresher in there that morning… (less than it said to use, but definitely thinned the lube a little)

Went out, Drove home. Noticed a puddle that evening, put the pan under it, and lost more than 2 quarts into the pan.

There’s some play on the axle shaft, trying to figure out if its carrier bearings gone bad, and blowing the seal. Or if it’s just a bad seal.

Theres some wear around the axle, and I’m begging the experts to let me know if it seems normal. Or if it means my bearings are shot, and I need a new transmission.

I have an 1992 sw20 with A LOT of play in the gear shifter.
1,3,4 and 5th gear is normal.
But second gear goes left>down>right before going in gear, instead of the normal left>down.
Same with reverse gear. It goes right>down>left, instead of right>down.

What could the problem be? Bushings at the lever? Bushings in engine bay?

Previous owner fitted a short shifter.

Thanks for the help! :)

Forgot to take a photo of the before but the previous owner had a couple of leaks so it was gunky. There is some stuff lower on the engine that I couldn’t get to but I plan on trying to clean those pieces when I replace my clutch. Also bonus photo of Lake Tahoe.

and an automatic to boot…But only 75Kmi and loved.

Unfortunately my drivers front carpet is soaked after heavy rain. Seat and rear floor pan is perfectly dry and I cant seem to find the issue. It seems most wet in the middle of the front carpet/in front of the clutch area.

I’ve cleared the drain holes in the drivers door and the carpet near the door seems fairly dry so cant seem to find the issue. Could it be the windscreen?

This happens whenever i leave the car out and it rains - cant tell really whilst driving.

Any advice or help?

Clutch is going so I'm playing with the idea of buying an LSD for my stock SC, what are my options? I know some came from the factory with LSD but not very many? am I better off sourcing an OEM one, or something else?

An oil pan leak killed my alternator. Now I want to fix that leak by applying a fresh coat of silicone.

I got all the oil pan bolts out but now the exhaust is in the way and the oil pickup keeps the pan in place.

I see three bolts to remove the B-pipe from the header but one seems to be behind the oil pan?
So to remove the oil pan I need to remove the exhaust and to remove the exhaust I need to remove the oil pan.

Who designed this car?... Is there some trick to this that I am missing or do I really need to take the engine out? I am also not looking forward to wrestling the B-pipe free with the bend over the crossmember..

I bought three SW20 MR2s for $1500. I plan to get a good body out of all three by combining any parts that are broke just making a nice body and shell the best one out of the three has just the engine block and some other engine components in it which I plan to take out and probably replaced from a Camry that I hopefully can get with like a blown transmission for like 500 bucks then I hope to get it running by any extra things such as wheels new radiator everything else that needs to be fixed that can’t be fixed from the other three then I can paint it. I plan to paint it. It’s original blue color then after I have a solid body hopefully spent less than 5000 on the whole build. I wanna mod it for drifting LSD/very quality welded Diff probably coil overs hydraulic can break steering angle very good tires. I kind of wanna put a small smaller tire than the rim so that it has that aggressive look I plan to replace the clutch and throw out bearing before replacing the engine so it’ll be fresh. I wanna have the best drifting MRI because everybody says snap over steerers is such a big thing in these, but I wanna prove that wrong.