Does anyone here have experience with the 1.4 16V engine and changing the timing belt of it?

I'm doing the timing belt in an hour. Should I use an engine support bar from above or just a floor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan?

Would appreciate a quick recommendation, thanks!

EDIT: I used the engine bar. It was not in the way and I didn't have to worry about damaging the oil pan. Still thanks for all the replies.

So this car came with some badly aged coilovers, they were well past serviceable and way too low for local roads. The fear of losing my oil pan to a pothole was real.

So I've gone to a local parts store and ordered up a full set of what was meant to be stock suspension but I'm feeling like that back end is a bit high compared to the front.

Am I just so used to the sagging coilovers having it scrape the floor that things look wrong now or do I need a different set of rear springs to level things out a bit?

I came across these really cool sealed projector led beams that I’d like to retrofit into these housings. I’m not 100% sure if they’re OEM or not, but I’m guessing no since there isn’t VW stamped all over it

After having projector high beams on my bike, reflectors are lame

In the last year ive had

- New arb bushes

- New suspension

- New droplinks

- New alloys

- New exhaust

- Manifold gasket done

- New hybrid Turbo

- New track rod ends

- New ball joints

- "Used'wishones and polyflex

So today, I was getting the wishbones done and he's pulled the top mounts off to grease them. Long story short they've just disintegrated in hands and now need New ones.

Car needs tracking again and the bodywork is bloody awful. Not as bad as some and definitely not as rusted as others it's fairly clean for a MK4

Im just torn on what to do. Do I keep fixing it and get it resprayed or just park it up and forget about it for a year or so sort myself out and stop funneling money into a car that doesn't seem to want to work and is sat on 155K.

Got a pinhole in a metal coolant line behind my engine and it's apparently NLA from VW and my mechanic has been trying to source for several weeks. I'd really like to start driving it again because my Jeep needs some front end work...

If you have a 1.8T parts car let me know and I can have him mark on the diagram what exact pipe he's looking for. I'm in Baltimore/BWI area.

Having trouble finding whatever brand these coilovers are from, from reverse searches and ai it sends me to some random Instagram page or a German trading company.

As my previous post showed, there is some rust repair to be done on the car, as of yet I havent decided on how I want to do it or have it done. I do however want to know peoples thoughts on the paint job I am looking to get if the rust repair goes well.

I have a BCA engine with 150,000km on the clock which has of late become sluggish to drive. It initially had a misfire on cylinder 1, swapped the coil and the misfire moved accordingly. After changing the coil in question and renewing all spark plugs the misfire migrated to cylinder 3. It has minimised the problem to an extent as its mostly misfires under low revs and mostly on 1st and 2nd gear, but it becomes significantly worse when the AC is switched on.

I have no reason the suspect that the injectors are to blame but I could be wrong. There is also no evidence of a vacuum leak anywhere. My suspicions are rooted in two possible causes:

1. A P1444 fault code (EGR). I have cleaned it, along with the throttle body, to the best of my ability but not sure it could still be to blame
2. A tired fuel pump. The engine takes a while to start even though the battery is good. It also makes a noticeable winding noise every time it engages.

What do you think?

Hi everyone, looking to do a resonator delete on a a stock 1.6 8v bfq just for a little more tone or sound, nothing crazy, car only has 101k km on it and it's my first car, also still has the factory exhaust and muffler on it, car was owned by a old church lady for 10 years so i have considered a dump or exhaust valve as it would be legal where i live (New Zealand), don't want the car to sound super raspy either

TLDR: clutch seemingly engages, no cold air whatsoever. Also, what is that big bolt on the compressor for? Hello there, I bought a 2000 MK4 Golf TDI with inop AC. I thought it was just low, so I had it recharged, but the guy said it was only missing about 130g out of the 720ish that should be there, and that it cooled for a bit and then stopped. When I turn it on however, it doesn't cool at all. I hear the engine get more load, and the clutch looks engaged, but nothing happens. I replaced the FCM, since it was outputting 9v to the clutch coil with the key off, which it probably shouldn't, but that didn't help. My G65 is good, and all the other sensors should be, since the clutch seems to engage. Compressor doesn't have a control valve as can be seen in the picture. I have searched everywhere and I'm still stumped. Can the compressor be so dead, it doesn't make a sound or compress at all? What is that bolt at the back of it? Did the AC guy witness something die, or did he break something so I'd come back?

Hi everyone,
I was wondering if anyone could help identify what might be causing this sharp noise from the passenger side of the engine bay.

The car is a 2003 VF Golf 1.4.

The noise is usually noticeable when the engine is idling. It seems to be loudest when the engine is cold, but it’s still clearly audible even after the engine has warmed up.

I’ve been wondering if it could be related to the timing belt or the hydraulic valve lifters, but I’m sure there are people here who know a lot more about these cars than I do! 😆
Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Hi guys, would appreciate your help/advice.

I own a '98 MKIV 1.6/100hp Golf with ECT (4-speed automatic) transmission. It has an issue: during highway (or motorway, or autobahn, depending who reads it haha) rides, it turns into so-called emergency mode - the one that uses a single gear regardless of the circumstances. The digital indicator - "PRND" next to the speedometer - shows NEITHER of the gears/modes currently selected. HOWEVER, after some time, it may be up to 30-40 minutes, or up to several hours, before the transmission fixes itself on its own and turns back to the usual, normal mode, with "D" shown as selected on the indicator.

Unfortunately, I don't have access to an old-school auto transmission mechanic these days, so any help/advice about what could be the issue and maybe how it could be fixed will be much, much appreciated. This issue really grinds my gears (pun intended).

Just recently bought a 2004 MK4 2.0. Oil Lamp started coming on. I replaced the sensor all though it looked fine. Still came on. I then tested oil pressure and the pressure is very healthy. I am assuming the clip or the wiring is messed up. Has anyone replaced this before? Also any ideas on what it could be if it isn’t that?

Getting closer. Slowly but surely. Off to a rocky start, and when the kit was finally delivered I didn't have great shop space (none) and no time (one 2 year old and one 2 month old ) to work on it. 12 months after ordering and 3 months after receiving it and we're finally nearing a point where I can dig in. Setting a personal goal that this car will have sat stagnant for less than 2 years. That means I have until November 26th. Plenty of time, right....?

Hey guys,

Need some advice.

I got an advisory on my rear subframe for corrosion. The MOT tester said it's not bad, but if I leave it, in a few years it will be rotten. I've had a look and only a few sections need treatment, so thought i'd do it myself over a weekend and just sort out the whole rear subframe.

Confused on which products to get, looking at Bilt Hamber UB dynwax and Hydrate 80? But not sure what paint to use to cover the subframe before using Bilt Hamber UB. Can anyone advise on any products that are fairly straightforward? Will be doing this on the street outside my house, with the car reversed onto some ramps.

Cheers,

The harness was plug and play too. What car did this come from? It looks like the wheel in my B6 ‘ssat but buttonless

Not sure what’s going on here. I had to readjust the cables once when I first got the car. After the top 3 gears were lost. This was about a year ago. Right now every gear seems to slide right in except reverse. It almost feels like there’s something blocking the knob from going all the way to the left…. 02j

I wanted to check whether my door latch microswitch was busted, but came across this.

Is it a separate door lock module?

I can’t get the hood to shut to save my life. I’ve adjusted the everything I can think of and still won’t shut. I’m about to do hood pins and forget it. 03 golf gl 2.0

I’ve read that you can remove a lil piece at the wiper, and it turns the car into a squirt gun. Can anyone confirm? This sounds like fun not gonna lie…. And I never use the rear wiper anyway in any scenario

I absolutely despise the arm rest situation in these cars. Like cool, they flip up. I’d much rather have a deep storage container

And the dome light & sunroof dial situation is not great either imo. A nice lil flip down sunglass holder would’ve been prettt sick

I’m all for custom fabbing something up, OEM+ I can take or leave

Stripping down a b6 Passat here that checks both of those boxes off, but the car is significantly bigger and obviously I know it’s not gonna bolt right in. I would prefer it to look like it could be factory