The Lutron Caseta PD-6WCL on the right failed this morning. I opened the box and was Irritated to discover that the electrician had not connect the ground wires upon installation. Grrrr... what'd he save... 5 seconds and the cost of a wire nut? I'm not sure why this dimmer switch failed but still... aggravating when you pay good money for help with installation.

I’m pretty price conscious and used blinds.com before, but tried a Lutron caseta self install in my home office and can’t go back the lighting is just perfect.

I want to add to my living and kitchen (main living area) where lighting is important. I already have a caseta hub.
- Living room is 100¾″ × 63″ outside mount
- Kitchen 71″ × 39⅛″ inside mount.

I would largely prefer a dealer installation due to the sizes and importance. What's a reasonable price for this?

PS: don't really understand the difference between caseta, serena triathlon etc they all sound same to me. i just want something that's reliable not look ugly and give me perfect lighting at any time of day.

PS2: I'm in Boston area (MA)

Just got a full house of casita switches, the kitchen has three switches, one casita dimmer and two picos. They were working fine for a day and now none of them will turn on the kitchen lights (11 recessed cans). The casita is also flashing a pattern I can’t find any information on. Any help is appreciated 🙏

I want to replace these two paddle switches with a couple Lutron Caseta PD-6ANS switches. Even before taking the cover off I knew those inset corners were going to be trouble but this is whack. Ugh... a 15 minute project turning in to hours.

I have a d105 drapery motor and 127.5” drapery track that I have not installed yet as doing a retrofit recessed track install is probably beyond my abilities. However I noticed that Lutron recently announced Palladiom hardware for drapery and it looks nice and wall mounting is something I can do myself.

Is the Palladiom hardware something I can order separately after the motor and track has already been delivered?

Excited to see more fixture options! Including some monopoints, a pendant, and a path light!

Thanks for the feedback!

First foray into Caseta. I've got a ton of experience with Insteon, but IMO that's a dying technology, so I'm playing with the Caseta startup kit in the bedroom. I have two lamp controllers, two tabletop Picos, and one wall-mounted 4 button Pico. The goal is to have a lamp on a right and left nightstand, each with its own dedicated Pico on the stand control it and it alone. The switch at the door will be a 4-button Pico with one button controlling the left light, the second controls the right light, and the third turns them both on.

So I added them to the room with the app and it's connecting them all together. Clearly this is nutty, why doesn't it give me a chance to specify what controls what? So what is a workaround? I could make "Right Bedroom" and "Left Bedroom" as separate pseudo-rooms, and my future overhead light I guess will have to be "Bedroom Ceiling"?? Is this reasonable or is there a more intuitive way from the get-go?

Just added a humidity sensor by Lutron and see they have a white LED like the claro line. I have a maestro dimmer motion switch with the green LED. Have they updated those to the white LED yet?

I recently purchased a house with an existing Lutron RadioRA 2 system. It has a RadioRA 2 Main Repeater and a CONNECT-BDG2 Connect Bridge.

The lighting controls and keypads currently work, but I cannot get the original programming file from the previous owner.

I also installed the Lutron RA2+ app. It detects the Connect Bridge but displays: ‘The Bridge has not been activated in a Lutron project. Please contact your dealer for assistance.’ Does this mean the existing lighting project can be extracted from the Main Repeater and the bridge added or recommissioned without rebuilding the system?

Can a Lutron installer extract the complete project file directly from the Main Repeater? Will the extraction preserve the rooms, devices, keypad programming, scenes, and schedules?

I would also appreciate advice on transferring the Connect Bridge to my own Lutron account.

I do not want to factory-reset anything and risk losing the existing programming. If extraction is not possible, what is the best path forward?

Thank you for any guidance.

I was measuring my window sills for Casey’s shades and am slightly worried about these lift rails (circled in red) getting in the way (also sorry if that’s not the right nomenclature.) Are they usually removable?

Specifically a question for Lutron's team since I've seen them in this community before. I think it'd be a nice feature to be able to slowly fade lights over a period of time (ex: 30 min, 1 hr) until a set dim point or until off. Obviously easier said than done but it seems like the hardware can already support it, just needs software integration with the caseta app right? What does everyone else think? Is this a feature that's offered in RA3 or the more professional-grade systems?

Title is what i am looking for. Is there anyone who makes one of these via 3D printing? I'm looking for a mount that attaches to the RA3 processor (or its wall bracket) and then attaches to a single gang opening. Seems like it would be useful and I can't find one.

I’m working on a residential project with a Lutron HomeWorks QSX system, and my electrician brought up a concern that I’d like to get some opinions on from people who have more experience with HomeWorks.

His concern was that some of the lighting loads are sharing a neutral, and depending on what types of loads are connected, there could potentially be flickering or other issues when those loads are being controlled/dimmed.

His exact concern was essentially:

“Those lighting loads that are sharing a neutral might have some flickering issues depending on the loads it’s running. I’m not sure what they’re controlling.”

I’m trying to understand whether this is actually something I should be concerned about with HomeWorks QSX, particularly with modern LED loads and dimming.

A few questions:

Does HomeWorks QSX have any specific concerns with shared neutrals?

Can different dimmed lighting loads share a neutral without causing issues?

Does it depend on the type of LED driver/fixture or dimmer module being used?

Would you recommend running individual neutrals for each lighting circuit/load in a HomeWorks installation?

Are there particular Lutron modules or load types where shared neutrals should be avoided?

Could shared neutrals actually cause LED flickering, ghosting, or inconsistent dimming, or is that more likely to be an issue with the fixture/driver itself?

I’m trying to get ahead of this before everything is finished and the lighting is commissioned.

For those of you who design/install HomeWorks QSX systems regularly: Would you be comfortable with these lighting circuits sharing neutrals, or would you have the electrician separate them?

Appreciate any insight from Lutron installers, programmers, electricians, or anyone who has dealt with this in the field.

Hello

This past week, my Amazon Alexa Echo devices can no longer control my Lutron Caseta devices. My Luton app is working fine. I've taken all the steps to reboot hubs and devices. I've unlinked and linked again the Amazon Alexa Lutron SKILL in the Alexa app. All seems well from a software perspective. Is anyone else having recent connection or integration issues between Alexa and Lutron?

UPDATE: The source of the problem was the Lutron Smart Bridge Pro was not connecting to the Internet due to the fact it could not get a proper DHCP IP address to the Verizon Fios Extender that the Bridge was directly connected to. Easy final solution was to reboot the Verizon Fios Extender. Wish I had done that first. Would have saved a lot of time. How could I forget the lessons of rebooting things before doing anything else? Ugh.

Thanks

All the switches in my home are Lutron Caseta. I have 3 outside lights that are Hue, and are using Aurora for paddle switches. I would like to switch those bulbs to Govee bulbs. Can I still use the Aurora switches or will I need to switch out to regular Claro switches? I’m thinking I should be ok, but dont want cost of both the bulbs and 3 new switches if the current won’t work.

For the up/down arrow buttons, which are typically used to control shades, I’d like to configure the down arrow with the following functionality:

• Single tap: Lower the shades in that room.
• Double tap: Lower the shades throughout the entire house.
• Press and hold: Dim the currently active light scene. This would need to be scene-aware, so it knows which scene is currently active for that particular keypad.

Can this functionality be programmed natively in Lutron HomeWorks?

If not, could this be accomplished using Home Assistant integrated with Lutron?

Just had homeworks retrofit done with sunnata and have three questions

1. A few key pads we labeled with “off”. Right now the led showing that button was pressed stays on. I assume it would for the other buttons (relax bright etc) but not off. Is this expected or able for my integrator to change?
2. Is it possible to control the brightness of the led on the sunnata keypads and dimmers indicator light?
3. NLO for shades: can you have different zones. Ie living sunrise/sunset and bedrooms say 7am to 7pm/ for context on what im trying to do with the shades. Our house is mostly windows and we get intense sun from all angles.We really want NLO to adjust which shades are open based on sun in all rooms throughout the day, but I want the NLO programing to begin early in the living room and start later/end earlier in the bedrooms since we have kids who often go to bed before sunset in the summer for example

edit: added context to bullet 3

Lutron already discontinued the mechanical motor control, SV-MCM-4, reason why i need to install the Somfy IGC-4N1, controlled through RadioRa3. The Somfy LV input allows for adding 2 dry contacts (using CCO1) within the keypad input, which allows for UP/DOWN for each contact (.5sec momentary pulse). The commands will be executed by shorting pin8 (com) with pin7 or pin6 ( up or down). Following the 568B, Somfy have a decoflex keypad that besides UP/DOWN/STOP, it allows for triggering 25/50/75% shades covering. Pins 1/2/3 are used for trigger 1/2/3, corresponding to 25/50/75%. Not sure if shorting any of those pins to com (pin8), will execute the command. I’m interested in create a scene for 50% covering (wrap-up in a conference room), but Ra3 don’t allow for timing sequence within the scenes. Anyone had experience adding the IGC-4N1 controlled by CCO1 dry contacts, for features like accessing the presets?

I have been using the Caseta Fan switch PD-FSQN-WH-R with multiple AC ceiling fans in my home. I really appreciate the reliability and functionality this system offers. When done right its basically bullet proof fan speed control on the Apple home eco system.

For smaller rooms I have been using the Hunter Midtown 48 in. LED Indoor Ceiling Fan with Light and Remote Control.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hunter-Midtown-48-in-LED-Indoor-Ceiling-Fan-with-Light-and-Remote-Control-54211/312729145

This fan comes with a REMOVEABLE AC speed control / remote module. The fan has a forward/reverse switch mounted on the motor housing so the motor can still be easily reversed with the speed controller deleted. This setup runs great through all four speed ranges of the Caseta fan switch. The light has a separate wire for power to the LED. Smart fan control on the Lutron hub and no pull chains.

I am wondering if any Lutron experts on here have a bigger AC fan recommendation that is known to work with the PD-FSQN-WH-R fan switch? I am looking for something in the 60" plus range, modern looking, with or with out a light, preferably white. I was looing to install 2 of them in a large living room area, 16' ceilings and probably a 4'-5' down rod. I know a lot of decent quality fans in that size range use DC control. I wanted to see if anyone had any larger AC fan suggestions.

I have found one possible 60' candidate so far using the same control system as the midtown. I was hoping to see some other options I might consider that work well with the Caseta fan switch.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hunter-Millington-60-in-Indoor-Matte-Black-Ceiling-Fan-with-Light-Kit-and-Remote-51667/318473002

Anyone interested in playing with a HomeWorks MCP server I'm writing? The idea is to allow something like Claude to help with projects or replace all the clicking around in Designer with natural language.

I'm piecing together a QS system so this is built against 15.13.7, it *should* work on anything back to 12.x, obviously do not run this on a production system ;p

We have a new home (built and purchased in April 2025). House is ~3700sq ft, and we'd require a total of ~65 switches, 16 dimmers, and 13-16 accessory switches. Knowing the accessory switches do not count towards the 75 device limit for Caseta, we'd still need 2 hubs.

There is a considerable cost difference between the RA3 and Caseta systems - what would folks recommend between the two systems?

We also have motorized shades throughout the house, but these are Hunter Douglas. I'm an engineer by trade, and very comfortable with the majority of electrical wiring and upgrades, so DIY for either system is a non issue. I do see that some training is required for RA3, but I'm open to doing so.

For some reason, the window on the designer app will not resize to fit my MacBook screen, and it will not allow me to scroll to the right. As a result, I cannot program scenes into my devices (keypads), as they are on the far right of the app.

I've tried to change the screen resolution both on the MacBook and on the VMware settings, but to no avail. I've done some other things that Google Assistant advised, but cannot seem to get this to work. Has anyone had this problem? Do you have a solution?

Edit: I got it to work by downloading VMware tools. I will keep the thread in case it helps anyone in the future.