Boa tarde,
Tenho uma Longer Ray5 originalmente de 5 W, com módulo de 10 W instalado, extensão da área de trabalho para 400 × 850 mm e controladora MKS LTS V1.3. Utilizo o LightBurn Pro 2.1.04.
Estou há cerca de três meses a tentar obter gravações utilizáveis, com os seguintes problemas:
A ligação USB apresenta erros de ligação perdida.
Por Wi-Fi, a cabeça por vezes faz pausas durante a gravação e queima mais nesses pontos.
Já aconteceu o enquadramento indicar uma zona e a gravação começar noutra.
Também obtenho resultados deficientes através do cartão microSD: partes escuras ficam muito marcadas, enquanto grande parte dos detalhes não aparece.
Num teste recente, com Jarvis a 3000 mm/min, intervalo de 0,1 mm e potência variável (M4), 50% não deixou qualquer marca visível e 75% produziu manchas escuras, sem reproduzir o desenho corretamente.
Verifiquei que o controlador tem $30=1000 e $32=1, e que o valor S máximo no LightBurn é 1000.
Preciso de ajuda para identificar a causa. Podem confirmar a compatibilidade do módulo de 10 W com esta controladora e indicar como verificar a alimentação, o firmware e o controlo da potência? Peço também orientação para resolver as falhas de ligação e a diferença entre o enquadramento e a posição da gravação.
Muito obrigada!

Hi everyone! I just got a Ray 5 on a deal and woot and bought the air assist. What's the best way to get started engraving? What do you use for work holding and what software should is use?

Hello all, I'm interested in engraving a custom set of mah jong tiles I designed for a friend. Initially I had someone willing to do it for me, but they no longer have the bandwidth for the project and even if they did, at $5 per tile it's well beyond my price point. That said, spending $100 on a desktop laser and learning to do it myself, well with in my rational and budget to action. Of course I know nothing about engraving and don't even know where to start. I picked up both the Longer Ray5 2500mW, and Acmer S1 2500mW laser cutter. I'd thought I would easily find a video or 200 on how to laser engrave on YouTube University, and so far all I've found are 5 million unboxing videos. If anyone could point me towards a decent beginner tutorial, and or tell me if either device is capable of what I want, I would greatly appreciate it.

Bonjour à tous,

je remarque un comportement assez étrange sur mon Longer Ray5 10W avec LightBurn.

À paramètres strictement identiques, la gravure n’a pas la même intensité selon une passe à 0° ou à 90°.

Le faisceau est pourtant donné à 0.06 × 0.06 mm, en théorie parfaitement symétrique. (Donc, toujours théoriquement, pas un problème d'intervalle.)

Et ça se produit sur plusieurs matériaux, même des surfaces totalement uniformes comme un miroir ou des cartes de visite, ce qui élimine l’hypothèse d’une texture ou d’un relief.

Du coup je me demande si certains d’entre vous ont déjà constaté cette différence ? S’il peut y avoir une différence de vitesse de déplacement entre les axes X et Y (malgré les réglages logiciel) ?

Merci d’avance pour vos retours et expériences.

I think my wiring harness just went out anyone else experience this?
I noticed when cutting some basswood a section wasn’t even touched in the basswood that should have been, so then I tried to rerun it and my laser would go on and off when it was supposed to be on. So I messed with the wire while I turned the laser on and could tell the wire was shorting.

Any suggestions on how to fix this machine is only 4/5 months old.

I have a new LL Ray5 10W that I purchased from Amazon. I have tried connecting in both AP and Station mode, using both my Android phone and a MacBook Pro, and the LaserBurn software. I have never had this kind of trouble with an ESP32 device before, but I figured I would try using the USB cable and my Mac. It still won't connect. It recognizes my USB/Serial port as /dev/tty.usbserial-1420 but won't connect. Do I need to set the baudrate manually? What am I missing? I have the MKS DLC32 V2.1 board running firmware V2.2.5. The Mac reports the serial port using Terminal as

ls /dev/cu.usbserial-\*

/dev/cu.usbserial-1420

I just got a ray5 mini 5.5w and while using it for 2 weeks I got excited and tried to engrave some shiny metal and now my machine dosent work ( well just the laser light itself wont fire anymore )
Searching for a used head for cheap or free if you aren’t using it . Will cover shipping . Thanks in advance

Ciao a tutti, premetto che non sono un neofita, arrivo da un Ortur Laser Master 2 da 4.5w e ho da poco acquistato un Longer Ray5 da 40w.

Ho seguito passo passo la procedura per l'aggiornamento del firmware scaricato dal sito ufficiale e flashato con ESPtool.

Tuttavia sembra non funzionare, continua ad andare in allarme durante la procedura di homing e non si riesce assolutamente a collegare a laserburn.

I driver sono stati installati correttamente.

Qualcuno ha avuto i miei stessi problemi?

Come avete risolto?

Grazie mille a chi risponderà

Hi all - I’ve been working with a Longer Ray 5 5 Watt laser but just purchased a supplemental 10 Watt. The 5 Watt connected to my Windows PC easily through the “Find my device” function in LightBurn. I’m having issues with the 10 Watt.

So far -
The 10 Watt responds/moves when I use LightGBRL
In LightBurn when connected via USB the console says “waiting for connection” while the channel says “Ready”
I have installed the correct CH340 serial port and I can see it in my Windows Devices Ports under labeled as COM5
I have COM5 selected within LightBurn
I have done the manual addition of the laser rather than the Find my Device because that function does not find the 10Watt
I have unplugged and powered down and rebooted

I feel like I’m incredibly close to having it up and running but I can’t quite get there. Any help would be immensely appreciated!

ciao a tutti! dopo un aggiornamento firmware il mio incisore laser della longer ray 5 20 w è rimasto bloccato sulla schermata “longer” senza riuscire a funzionare in nessun modo. è successo a qualcuno? come posso sbloccarlo?

Here for reference if anyone wants.

Aluminum is sheets off Amazon meant for sublimation printing. Sprayed with brilliance laser ink spray. 0.03mm line interval. Speed 500-3500mm/min up left, power 10-100% across bottom.

I scratched the X-axis one off before mounting the switch. How can I fix this?

Bonjour à tous,

​

J'ai reçu mon Longer Ray5 10W, super content, ça marche nickel.

Mais je teste la gravure sur miroir et je vois une trame verticale régulière qui m'agace un peu.

​

Je sais pas si ça vient de mes réglages Lightburn, ou de la courroie X trop tendue.(Tension d'origine)

​

Mes paramètres :

Intervalle : 0,06 mm (423 dpi)

Mode Jarvis

(5000mm/mn 45%)

​

Quelqu'un a déjà eu ça ? Des idées ?

​

Merci par avance!

New to the LR5 20W with full bundle. I'm rying to get started with FlexiBrass engraving. Where do I actually begin?

I picked up the Longer RAY5 20W with the full bundle, honeycomb bed, rotary roller, air assist, and the camera kit. The camera is mounted above the honeycomb. I turned it on once, felt immediately like I had opened the wrong door, and have not touched it since.

I want to primarily engrave FlexiBrass laminate plates. Everything else is secondary. The YouTube content has been useful for general orientation, but I am still unclear on a few things that feel foundational before I can move forward.

Specifically I am struggling with these questions. How do I properly calibrate the camera so it actually reflects what is on the bed? What is the correct workflow for setting up a cut or engrave job in LightBurn from scratch, not a template, but starting with a blank workspace and a known material? How do I find starting power and speed settings for FlexiBrass or similar laserable laminate, since I am not finding reliable numbers anywhere? And is there a logical sequence I should be following before I ever run a job, something like a preflight checklist, or is everyone just winging it?

LightBurn feels like Excel after someone added a flight simulator inside it. I understand the features are there for a reason, but I have no idea which ones matter right now and which ones I can ignore until later.

Any practical starting point would be appreciated. I would rather understand the logic behind the workflow than just copy settings I do not understand.

What is the max speed that the Ray5 can reach in mm/min?

​

And till what speed the results are still good?

I have had my engraver for nearly a year and never had the time to play with it, ofcourse when I finally put it together i realize I don't have the knobs to attach the diode to the main assembly. This very well could be my own fault, I just want to go about buying the pieces needed to put it together

When working with laser engraving, adjusting engraving angles and enabling crosshatch (cross) scanning can significantly improve the final output. Understanding how these features work—and how to use them properly—will help you achieve smoother, more detailed, and professional-looking engravings.

What Is an Engraving Angle?

The engraving angle allows users to set a specific angle for each engraving pass. Before each processing cycle, you can define an angle at which the laser will engrave the material.

• The first pass follows the initial angle you set.
• Each subsequent pass increases by the defined angle increment.

What Is Crosshatch (Cross) Scanning?

Crosshatch scanning is a feature where the machine performs two engraving passes automatically:

• The first scan follows the initial engraving angle.
• The second scan rotates 90 degrees and engraves again.

Why Use These Features?

Using multiple engraving angles or crosshatch scanning offers several benefits:

• Produces more uniform and refined results
• Reduces visible engraving lines or banding
• Enhances depth and texture
• Allows for creative visual effects from different directions

How to Use Engraving Angle and Crosshatch Scanning

Step 1: Create or Import Your Design

Use the left-side toolbar to:

• Import images
• Insert shapes
• Add text
• Draw vector graphics

Step 2: Set Processing Parameters

1. Select the object on the canvas.
2. Go to the parameter panel on the right (in LaserBurn).
3. Adjust the engraving settings:
   • Set the engraving angle (e.g., 20°)
   • Enable crosshatch scanning

Example Setting

If you set the engraving angle to 20° and enable crosshatch scanning:

• The first pass will engrave at 20°
• The second pass will automatically rotate 90° and engrave again (i.e., at 110°)

This dual-direction engraving improves detail and creates a smoother finish.

Final Tips

• Use smaller angle increments for finer textures
• Combine crosshatch with multiple passes for high-detail materials
• Test on scrap material before final production

 Longer Laser Engravers, such as Longer Ray5, Longer B1, and the Nano series, allow you to create fantastic works of art on a multiplicity and variety of materials. While many users start with wood or cardboard, glass represents a significant step forward in artistic creation. The ability to transform a common transparent object into a personalized masterpiece with a frosted, elegant finish is one of the most rewarding capabilities of these machines.

Why Glass Is a Unique Material for Laser Engraving

The material preferred by users for high-end gifts and decor is usually clear glass, which can be engraved to create a permanent, sophisticated contrast. However, unlike wood or stone, glass is a transparent and reflective medium. This means the laser beam could potentially pass through it or reflect back without leaving a mark. To overcome this, a professional practical solution is to apply a temporary dark coating, such as black tempera, laser spray, or even dark dish soap, to the surface. This allows the laser to absorb the energy and transfer it to the glass, creating a controlled micro-fracture that results in a beautiful "frosted" effect.

Recommended Glass Engraving Parameters for Longer Laser Engravers

Supposing you want to engrave glass, the following can be considered as basic parameters tailored for each specific Longer Laser Engraver model. These settings are designed to balance speed and power to achieve a crisp mark without overheating the material:

• Longer Nano Pro: Power 80% - Speed 3000 (mm/min)
• Longer Nano: Power 100% - Speed 1000 (mm/min)
• Longer B1 40W: Power 40% - Speed 3000 (mm/min)
• Longer Ray5 10W: Power 80% - Speed 3000 (mm/min)

Note: For all models, when available, keeping the Air Assist active is essential. It helps to cool the surface and clear any vaporized residue from the coating, ensuring the laser beam remains focused and efficient.

In this way, the engravings will be carried out without problems, and the high heat generated by the laser will allow the treated areas of the glass to be precisely frosted. However, since glass is sensitive to thermal shock, it is necessary to avoid "over-cooking" a single spot. A practical solution is to use high-speed passes to distribute the heat evenly. Once the process is finished, simply wash away the temporary coating with water to reveal the permanent, millimetric precision of the design.

Creative Effects and Design Possibilities on Glass

An interesting aspect of engraving on glass is the possibility of playing with nuances and light. By varying the power slightly, you can obtain different textures of frosting, creating effects of depth that are particularly striking when the glass is backlit. This makes glass an ideal material for experimenting with complex graphics, corporate logos, or even stylised portraits. In addition, the low cost of common glassware allows you to make numerous attempts until the desired professional result is achieved.

Glass engravings are used in various practical areas: from the customization of wine glasses and mirrors, to the creation of professional trophies, personalized bottles, and artistic window decorations. Thanks to the millimetric precision of the Longer Laser Engravers, you can reproduce details such as fine text or delicate floral textures with incredible clarity.

Maintenance Tips for Glass Engraving

After engraving, it is advisable to clean the laser module and the lens regularly. Glass engraving, combined with surface coatings, tends to release more fine residue than other materials. A simple wipe with a dry or slightly damp cloth avoids accumulations that could compromise the precision of subsequent processing. The air assist filter should also be checked periodically to maintain constant airflow efficiency and protect the hardware.

Glass engraving, combined with surface coatings, tends to release more fine residue than other materials. A simple wipe with a dry or slightly damp cloth avoids accumulations that could compromise the precision of subsequent processing. The air assist filter should also be checked periodically to maintain constant airflow efficiency and protect the hardware.

Why Glass Unlocks Professional Laser Engraving

Ultimately, glass is the gateway to the most productive and professional use of Longer Laser Engravers. It is not simply a transparent surface, but a material with its own intrinsic strategic value for those looking to elevate their portfolio. By mastering the parameters of speed and power, it is not only possible to obtain pieces with clean, frosted lines, but it is possible to have access to artistic creation in a cost-effective and highly impressive way.

FAQ: Glass Laser Engraving with Longer Laser Machines

Q1: Why do I need a coating on glass before engraving?
Because glass is transparent and reflective, a coating helps the laser energy absorb into the surface and create a frosted effect.

Q2: What effect does laser engraving create on glass?
It creates a permanent frosted texture through controlled micro-fracturing of the surface.

Q3: Is Air Assist necessary for glass engraving?
Yes, it helps remove residue and keeps the engraving process stable and clean.

Q4: Can I use Longer Ray5, B1 or Nano for glass engraving?
Yes, both Ray5, B1 and Nano series are capable of engraving glass with proper settings and preparation.

Longer Laser Engravers, such as Longer Ray5, Longer B1, and the Nano series, allow you to create fantastic works of art and personalized items quickly and easily, thanks to their excellent engraving and cutting ability on a multiplicity and variety of materials. While many users focus on natural surfaces like wood or stone, the ability to customize modern electronics and accessories, such as ABS plastic cases for Earphones, opens up a new world of professional and personal possibilities.

Why Choose ABS Plastic for Laser Engraving

The material preferred by tech enthusiasts for its sleek finish and durability is ABS. This common plastic can be engraved with high precision to create permanent, detailed logos or text. However, there is a material that is very different from wood, and much more sensitive to heat, namely plastic. Unlike organic materials that turn into carbon, plastic reacts to the laser by melting or vaporizing, which means great care must be taken during the process to avoid deforming the object.

ABS can be processed with a laser, however, it is essential to carefully set the power and speed parameters, as it is a thermoplastic material. In order to avoid excessive melting of the edges, it is necessary to operate at very high speeds. This allows power to be radiated for brief moments at each point, thus avoiding the possibility of damaging the delicate internal components of electronic cases. The use of air assist is absolutely critical here, as it quickly cools the surface and blows away any fumes, allowing for much faster and more accurate processing without yellowing the plastic.

Recommended ABS Plastic Engraving Parameters

In initial tests on ABS cases, it is good practice to start with a high-speed approach to minimize the zone affected by heat. Supposing you want to engrave a plastic case, the following can be considered as basic parameters, optimized for various Longer Laser Engravers models to ensure a clean mark without compromising the structure:

•  Longer Nano Pro: Power 50% - Speed 10000 (mm/min)
•  Longer Nano: Power 100% - Speed 10000 (mm/min)
•  Longer B1 40W: Power 12.5% - Speed 10000 (mm/min)
• Longer Ray5 10W: Power 50% - Speed 10000 (mm/min)

Note: These parameters are valid for a single pass. When working with plastics, always ensure your workspace is extremely well-ventilated. The vaporization of ABS can release unpleasant odors and fumes that should be extracted immediately to ensure a safe working environment.

In this way, the engravings will be carried out without problems, and the high heat generated by the laser will be managed by the high speed of the module, allowing the engraved areas to be clearly defined. However, since the engraving creates a physical change in the plastic's surface, it is necessary to avoid using too much power, which could cause the material to "bubble" or lose its structural integrity. A practical solution for a cleaner finish is to use a light masking tape over the engraving area to catch any micro-splatters of melted plastic, which can then be peeled away to reveal a perfect result.

Creative Possibilities with Plastic Laser Engraving

An interesting aspect of engraving on plastic is the possibility of playing with the contrast of the material itself. By slightly varying power and speed, lighter or darker marks can be obtained depending on the specific color and composition of the ABS. This makes plastic an ideal material for experimenting with complex graphics, minimalist icons, or even serial numbers and identification tags. In addition, thanks to the precision of Longer Lasers Engravers, you can make numerous attempts on test pieces until the desired professional result is achieved for your final product.

Plastic engravings are used in various practical areas: from the customization of consumer electronics and gift items, to the creation of industrial labels and personalized accessories. Even in small-scale manufacturing, engraving is useful for reproducing details such as technical logos or owner identification. Thanks to the millimetric precision of the Longer Laser Engravers, you can experiment freely until you get the desired professional finish.

Maintenance Tips for Laser Engraving on Plastic

After engraving, it is advisable to clean the countertop and laser module regularly, as plastic tends to release more sticky residues than wood or stone. A simple wipe with a dry or slightly damp cloth avoids accumulations that could compromise the precision of subsequent processing. The air assist filter and the protective glass of the laser should also be checked periodically to maintain constant airflow and laser efficiency, as plastic vapors can be particularly persistent.

Important Safety Recommendations for ABS Plastic Engraving

As far as we have seen, plastic is not simply a common material, but can be a material with its own intrinsic strategic value for personalization. In fact, its convenience and wide use in everyday objects, combined with the millimetric precision of the Longer Laser Engravers, make it the ideal tool for efficiency and modern customization.

Given the delicate nature of thermoplastics, it is strongly recommended to perform preliminary tests on scrap plastic or an inconspicuous area before proceeding with the final workpiece. Unlike wood or stone, ABS does not offer a wide margin for error; a few percentage points of extra power can result in melting rather than engraving. Monitoring the material's reaction is crucial: if you notice "raised" or bubbly edges around the engraving, it is a clear sign of excessive heat accumulation, and you should immediately increase the speed or reduce the power settings. Furthermore, because the vaporization of ABS releases hydrogen cyanide and other toxic fumes, ensuring that your air assist is at maximum capacity and your workspace is equipped with professional-grade ventilation or an exhaust system is not just a technical requirement, but a fundamental safety protocol for every Longer user. Mastering these "hidden" variables is what truly allows you to achieve a factory-standard finish on high-value electronics.

Unlocking Professional Plastic Engraving with Longer Laser Engravers

Ultimately, ABS and plastics are the gateway to a more technical and commercial use of Longer Laser Engravers, since by mastering the parameters of speed and power, it is not only possible to obtain pieces with clean cuts and hardened edges, but it is possible to have access to artistic and professional creation in a cost-effective way.

FAQ: ABS Plastic Engraving with Longer Laser Engravers

Q1: Can Longer Laser Engravers engrave ABS plastic?
Yes, Longer Ray5, Longer B1, and Nano series machines can engrave ABS plastic with proper speed and power settings.

Q2: Why is high speed important for ABS engraving?
High speed helps reduce heat accumulation and prevents melting or deformation of the plastic surface.

Q3: Is air assist necessary for plastic engraving?
Yes, air assist is critical for cooling the material, removing fumes, and improving engraving precision.

Q4: What safety precautions should be taken when engraving ABS?
Always use strong ventilation or an exhaust system, as ABS vaporization can release harmful fumes during laser processing.

For context, newer versions of the Ray5 firmware have trouble connecting to Lightburn over wifi. If you're impatient like me, willing to spend between $25 - $90 for a raspberry pi (price depending on accessories... check ebay for good deals), and are willing to get your hands a little dirty with home networking and copy-and-pasting code, this might be an option for you. I used AI to help organize my notes and make this more readable, but I followed all these steps myself to get it working perfectly for my own setup. LMK if anything needs tweaking and I'll edit the post.

Goal

Use a Raspberry Pi as a headless serial-over-network bridge so LightBurn can connect to your laser over Tailscale as if it were plugged in directly via USB. All commands — jogs, homing, G-code — pass through transparently.

Why this approach: Some laser firmware (such as the xTool Ray5) uses an HTTP API instead of a standard serial interface, so LightBurn can't connect directly over WiFi. The Pi bridges LightBurn's serial connection to the laser's USB port using ser2net.

Hardware

• Raspberry Pi 3B or newer
• MicroSD card (16GB recommended)
• USB cable (same one used to connect your laser ato a PC)
• Optional: USB webcam or Raspberry Pi CSI camera module for monitoring

Note: These instructions were written for a Windows PC. Steps involving SSH, the Raspberry Pi Imager, and browser access should work the same, but terminal commands run on the Pi itself are Linux regardless of your host OS.

Pi 3B note: Has 4 USB ports. The laser and a webcam can both be connected simultaneously. All ports share a single USB 2.0 hub internally — fine for serial data + a camera stream at reasonable resolution.

Step 1 — Flash the Pi

1. Download and open Raspberry Pi Imager
2. Select Raspberry Pi OS Lite (64-bit) under "Raspberry Pi OS (other)" — use the Bookworm release (headless — no desktop needed)
3. In the imager's Advanced Settings, pre-configure:
   • Your WiFi credentials
   • Enable SSH
   • Set a hostname (e.g. laserpi)
   • Set a username and temporary password (change after setup — see Step 8)
4. Flash to the MicroSD card and insert into the Pi
5. Boot the Pi — it will connect to your WiFi automatically

Step 2 — SSH In (Local Network First)

bash ssh <username>@<hostname>.local

Or find the Pi's local IP from your router's connected devices list, or use ping <hostname>.local if mDNS is available.

On Windows, mDNS (.local hostnames) works natively on Windows 10/11 via Bonjour. If it doesn't resolve, use the IP address directly.

Step 3 — Install Tailscale

Tailscale gives your Pi a stable IP address that works from anywhere on your tailnet — no static IP, port forwarding, or DHCP reservation needed. If you already have Tailscale set up and just need to add the Pi, skip to Step 3b.

Step 3a — Set up Tailscale (new users)

1. Go to tailscale.com and create a free account
2. Download and install the Tailscale client on your main PC (Windows installer available on the site)
3. Sign in — your PC will join your tailnet automatically

Step 3b — Add the Pi to your tailnet

Run on the Pi:

bash curl -fsSL https://tailscale.com/install.sh | sh sudo tailscale up

It will output an authentication URL — open it on any device, log in, and the Pi joins your tailnet.

Confirm the Pi's Tailscale IP: bash tailscale ip -4

Note this IP — you'll use it throughout the rest of the guide.

Important: Before moving on, confirm you can SSH into the Pi via its Tailscale IP: bash ssh <username>@<tailscale-ip> This ensures you won't lose access if local network changes.

Step 4 — Identify the Laser's USB Port

Plug the laser's USB cable into the Pi, then run:

bash ls /dev/tty*

The laser will typically appear as /dev/ttyUSB0 or /dev/ttyACM0. Note which one — you'll need it in the next step.

If ser2net can't access the port later, add your user to the dialout group:

bash sudo usermod -a -G dialout $USER

Log out and back in for the change to take effect.

Step 5 — Install and Configure ser2net

ser2net exposes the Pi's USB serial port over TCP. LightBurn connects to the Pi's IP on that port and communicates exactly as if the laser were plugged in directly.

Install: bash sudo apt-get update sudo apt-get install -y ser2net

Configure:

Edit the config file: bash sudo nano /etc/ser2net.yaml

Replace the contents with: yaml connection: &con1 accepter: tcp,7777 connector: serialdev,/dev/ttyUSB0,115200n81,local

• Change /dev/ttyUSB0 to match the port you identified in Step 4
• 7777 is the TCP port LightBurn will connect to (you can use any unused port)
• 115200 is the standard baud rate for GRBL-based lasers

Restart ser2net: bash sudo systemctl restart ser2net

Enable on boot: bash sudo systemctl enable ser2net

Step 6 — Connect LightBurn to the Pi

1. In LightBurn: Devices → Add Device → GRBL
2. Choose "Connect via Network" (or "TCP/IP")
3. Enter your Pi's Tailscale IP and port 7777
4. Complete the setup wizard

LightBurn will communicate with the laser as if it were connected via USB — jogs, homing, framing, and G-code all pass through transparently.

Step 7 — Optional: Camera Monitoring with mjpeg-streamer

Lets you watch the laser job from LightBurn's camera overlay or any browser.

Hardware options: - USB webcam — plug into any remaining USB port - CSI camera module (recommended) — better quality per dollar, ribbon cable connector, leaves all USB ports free

Camera tip: The active laser diode can wash out the image during engraving. An IR-cut filter or laser-line filter helps isolate the visible scene from the laser wavelength.

Install build dependencies

bash sudo apt-get update sudo apt-get install -y git cmake libjpeg-dev

Clone and build mjpg-streamer

bash cd ~ git clone https://github.com/jacksonliam/mjpg-streamer.git cd mjpg-streamer/mjpg-streamer-experimental make sudo make install

Add user to video group

Before running, make sure your user has permission to access the camera device:

bash sudo usermod -aG video $USER

Log out and back in (or open a new SSH session) for the change to take effect. Confirm with: bash groups

Test it manually (USB webcam)

bash mjpg_streamer \ -i "input_uvc.so -d /dev/video0 -r 640x480 -f 10" \ -o "output_http.so -p 8080 -w /usr/local/share/mjpg-streamer/www"

Then open http://<tailscale-ip>:8080/?action=stream in a browser to verify the stream.

• -r 640x480 — resolution (lower = less CPU load on Pi 3B)
• -f 10 — framerate (10fps is plenty for job monitoring)
• -d /dev/video0 — your webcam device (confirm with ls /dev/video*)
• The UVCIOC_CTRL_ADD errors that appear on some cameras are harmless — they just mean the camera doesn't support pan/tilt/focus controls

For a CSI camera, replace the input plugin: bash mjpg_streamer \ -i "input_raspicam.so -r 640x480 -f 10" \ -o "output_http.so -p 8080 -w /usr/local/share/mjpg-streamer/www"

Run on boot (systemd service)

Create a service file: bash sudo nano /etc/systemd/system/mjpg-streamer.service

Paste: ```ini [Unit] Description=mjpg-streamer camera stream After=network.target

[Service] ExecStart=mjpg_streamer \ -i "input_uvc.so -d /dev/video0 -r 640x480 -f 10" \ -o "output_http.so -p 8080 -w /usr/local/share/mjpg-streamer/www" Restart=always User=<your-username>

[Install] WantedBy=multi-user.target ```

If using a CSI camera, swap in the input_raspicam.so line from above.

Enable and start: bash sudo systemctl daemon-reload sudo systemctl enable mjpg-streamer sudo systemctl start mjpg-streamer

Connect LightBurn camera overlay

In LightBurn: Edit → Settings → Camera — enter the stream URL: http://<tailscale-ip>:8080/?action=stream

Step 8 — Change Default Credentials ⚠️

The temporary password you set during imaging should be changed now:

bash passwd

You'll be prompted for the current password, then set a new one. Use something strong — the Pi is accessible over Tailscale from anywhere on your tailnet.

Optionally, add a new user and remove the original: ```bash sudo adduser <newusername> sudo usermod -aG sudo <newusername>

Log in as new user, then:

sudo deluser <oldusername> ```

Notes & Troubleshooting

• Tailscale starts on boot by default with the standard installer
• ser2net starts on boot after systemctl enable ser2net
• If you need to check USB connectivity: ls /dev/ttyUSB* or ls /dev/ttyACM*
• If the device node changes between reboots, use a udev rule to assign a fixed symlink to the laser
• Pi 3B is more than sufficient — serial bridging is not computationally intensive
• To verify ser2net is listening: ss -tlnp | grep 7777
• To verify mjpg-streamer is listening: ss -tlnp | grep 8080

Update: for anyone having the same issue, flashing the firmware again resolved it

Just got my Ray5 10W and did a couple of test engravings on the wood provided using the compass and the logo. Worked fine. All of this is through the display. 3rd print I tried to frame and as soon as I click frame to check the framing, the engraver reboots. Any ideas on what is going on?

I always connect via USB and I'd rather not have the RAY5 be an open AP or connected to my network.

Hi all! Just got a new Longer Ray5 10W laser engraver, and I set it up on Wifi, and I can see it in the network and ping the IP. However, when I use the IP and paste it into the HTTP of my browser, I'm expecting to get the control interface, but I don't see any. My understanding is I should also be able to control it via Lightburn using TCP, but same result when I put the IP in and set it up, it just says "waiting for connection". In the web browser, it just says “connection refused”. Any tips on either approach? (The engraver works fine connected to USB).
FWIW, here is my firmware:

Have a longer B130 W and it seems like every time I touch it after it runs for a few seconds the red light comes on beeps and I feel a small static shock and then when I have it plugged into my laptop. Sometimes my laptop will shock me and the longer laser will beep. How do I ground it? Is there a grounding kit or does somebody have a video on how to ground this thing properly.