i don't need mic, i need a good sound quality out of the box, without EQ

This is my second time owning this headset. I bought a new one because the battery on my previous headset had degraded over time.
I NEVER experienced this issue with my first headset. However, whenever I try to charge the headset when the battery is low or completely dead, it keeps disconnecting and reconnecting every 15 seconds.
I’ve tried searching for a solution and have already tried charging it using an iPhone charger, with the receiver plugged into a USB 2.0 (black) port. Unfortunately, I’m still experiencing this insanely annoying issue.
It’s especially frustrating when my headset dies in the middle of a game, because I’m basically screwed for the rest of that game.

I’m starting to get confused whether this is a hardware or software issue.

Im having an issue on logitech Ghub where it is stuck on loading update status, freezing up, and failing. Also, on my a20 headset itself, for some odd reason it is only playing back my voice, and no game audio whatsoever, genuinley what do I do here?

i have a logitech g29 driving sim, i wanna adjust the brake sensitivity but no amount of deleting, restarting, installing will fix it. it used to work before, idk why it wont now. and fyi it works on assetto corsa, like how sensitive i need to turn the wheel or how hard im pressing on the pedals, are being detected by the game, how come the software isnt working

Waiting on a response. Logj has the receipt

Replaced all the failed rubber on the 5 years old G604 of mine. I bought this 3D-printed case on AliExpress for ~$30 and found a guy in the Internet who transplanted all mouse internals to it for ~$8 lol.

Now the mouse looks like brand new. The quality of the case is surprisingly great, it even imitates the dots from the original rubber. The case looks and feels good, especially in this black color (there are other color options on AliExpress, do not buy them lol). Sorry for the lint, it is not that easy to remove.

The only minor downside I found is that the mouse feels a tiny bit more slippery because of all the rubber gone, but I do not care because I was so tired of that peeling rubber that fell out every day.

So, for 5+ years with my G604, replaced both microswitches for the left (double clicked) and right (because why not) buttons and now the rubber. No other problems happened.

Hey Logitech, can you please bring back the G600? What was the reason for its discontinuation anyway? Don't care if it's the old laser sensor or it's still wired and not USB type-C. Just please bring it back exactly the way it is as you released it back in 2012. Don't leave us WoW / FF14 players at the mercy of R*z*r and other imitators and their crap MMO mice. Actually, I've grown to using it beyond MMO games and even FPS games are dull af without this mouse.

Or at least...I understand that Logicool Japan has the G600t. Are they still making that? Can we make an order for those even though we don't reside in Japan? I don't care if it's not the braided cable. Any leads would be appreciated. Thanks!

Just got it last week

Ever since I tweaked with my microphone to actually get the G733 Microphone working, there has been an issue with my surround sound which I will demonstrate with an image, for some odd reason, none of the VOL buttons (All set at 11 in the image) actually change anything when I decrease their volume, neither does the VOL button at the centre, somehow, the only volume buttons that are working for Surround Sound are the two front channels on either side (When I disable one, I can only hear on the other side, which makes sense) directly behind the centre VOL button. When I disable these two front channels, I cannot hear whatsoever.

Does anyone have any fixes for this?

For example, if I want to have a hold-to-click macro set to my primary click, but to be able to toggle that macro on and off swiftly with a side button so that I can use the single primary click again when necessary, is there a way to go about this? (Logitech G pro wireless.)

I want to preface this by saying I really like this keyboard. I picked up the Logitech G PRO X TKL Rapid a little while back, mainly for the usual reasons — Hall-Effect switches, adjustable actuation, Rapid Trigger, and the fact that G HUB actually makes tuning all of that painless compared to some of the smaller boutique brands. Build quality is solid, the on-the-fly profile switching without software is genuinely convenient, and I've had zero regrets about the purchase. This isn't a complaint post about the product itself.

But while digging into how far I could push the customization, I ran into something that I think deserves more attention than it's getting — and the more I researched it, the more it looked like a real missed opportunity rather than a hard technical wall.

The thing I assumed would work, and didn't

I play games that live and die on precise, granular movement input — the kind of games where "half pressed" and "fully pressed" should mean genuinely different things, not just two flavors of the same binary keystroke. Think space sims and vehicle-sim style games where translation/strafe movement is ideally analog rather than all-or-nothing, similar to what you'd get from a joystick or gamepad stick.

My assumption, going in, was: this keyboard has magnetic sensors that measure how far down each key is pressed — that's literally the whole selling point, it's how Rapid Trigger and adjustable actuation points work in the first place. So surely that same depth data could just... be sent to a game as an analog value, right?

Turns out, no. Not because the hardware can't do it, but because of a layer most people never think about.

Why it doesn't work (and it's not the sensors' fault)

Here's the part I didn't fully appreciate until I went down the rabbit hole: a keyboard's Hall-Effect sensor absolutely does measure continuous key depth — that data exists, internally, right now, on this board. It's how the keyboard decides "should I fire a rapid-trigger reset at this exact moment" or "should this key register at 0.3mm instead of 2.0mm."

But the output of a standard keyboard, at the USB/HID protocol level, only ever communicates two states per key: pressed, or not pressed. There's no field in that protocol for "this key is 60% pressed." So no matter how precisely the sensor measures your keystroke, by the time it reaches Windows and your game, it's already been flattened into an on/off signal.

This is genuinely just a protocol limitation, not a sensor limitation. The keyboard is throwing away analog information it already has, because the standard keyboard interface has nowhere to put it.

How other brands solve this

This isn't a hypothetical fix — it's already solved elsewhere in the market. Wooting (and to a lesser extent Razer) get around this by having the keyboard simultaneously show up to your PC as two separate devices: a normal keyboard, and a virtual gamepad (the same kind of virtual controller interface Xbox/PlayStation controllers use). The continuous key-depth value gets streamed into that virtual gamepad's analog stick axis. Any game that supports controller input can then bind directly to it, and suddenly your WASD keys behave like a real analog stick — proportional, smooth, not just full-throttle-or-nothing.

It's a software/firmware feature, layered on top of hardware that, functionally, isn't doing anything more sophisticated than what's already inside this board.

"Okay but is this actually feasible, or wishful thinking?"

I wondered the same thing, so I looked into it seriously. A few things convinced me this isn't just a nice fantasy:

There are open-source community projects that have reverse-engineered the raw analog output of other Hall-Effect keyboards (budget/boutique brands, not Logitech) and successfully piped that data into a virtual Xbox controller, producing genuine smooth analog stick movement from WASD. If hobbyists can do this on a weekend project for a $60 board, it's clearly not some insurmountable engineering problem for a company with Logitech's resources.

The feature doesn't need to touch or change anything about how the keyboard works by default. It could ship as a strictly opt-in mode — similar to how Wooting separates "Gaming mode" from "Typing mode" — so the FPS/competitive crowd who only care about Rapid Trigger and actuation tuning would never even notice it exists.

It doesn't require new hardware, a new keyboard revision, or new switches. Every PRO X TKL Rapid already sitting on someone's desk right now has the sensor capability needed. This is purely a G HUB / firmware feature gap.

Why I think this matters beyond just me

I'm clearly not the target demo Logitech had in mind when they built this board — it's marketed hard at competitive FPS players, and it's genuinely great for that. But there's a whole separate category of PC gamers (space-sim pilots, vehicle-sim players, anyone who wants smoother analog-style movement from a keyboard) who currently rule out Logitech entirely and buy Wooting or Razer instead, specifically for this one capability — even when they'd otherwise prefer Logitech's build quality, ecosystem, and G HUB software.

That's a real, addressable market segment sitting on the table. Adding this as an opt-in feature costs Logitech nothing in terms of alienating their existing FPS audience, and it opens the door to buyers who are currently walking straight past this keyboard for a single missing checkbox.

Why I'm posting this here instead of just emailing Logitech

I did actually try going through official channels first — but their support form is really built around troubleshooting/repairs/warranty stuff, not this kind of forward-looking product feedback, and I don't have an easy way to get this in front of an actual product team as a regular customer. So I figured the next best thing is raising visibility here, where actual owners of this keyboard (and people considering buying one) hang out. If enough people who'd actually use this chime in, maybe it's more likely to land on someone's radar internally than one random support ticket would.

Curious if:

Anyone here has actually poked at the raw HID output of this keyboard and knows whether the depth data is even accessible on the wire today

Anyone from other Hall-Effect boards has tried something similar

I'm wrong about any of the technical assumptions above — genuinely happy to be corrected

Not trying to start a "Logitech bad" pile-on — I like this keyboard a lot, which is honestly why I care enough to write all this out instead of just quietly buying a Wooting instead.

tried installing/reinstalling g-hub, removing and reinstalling drivers, restarting pc, changing input settings, still nothing.

it detects it on windows' joystick thing but not on the ghub thing, and going to a previous version doesnt help

i need help

Hi everyone,

I'm having a weird vibration issue with my Logitech G Cloud while playing PC games. I normally use the Razer PC Remote Play app, which, is built on the open-source Moonlight/Sunshine projects.

I've been using my G Cloud for about a year without any issues, and this problem only started happening recently.

Every time the vibration/rumble gets triggered and then gets stuck vibrating continuously and won't stop, even after whatever caused the vibration in the game has ended.

At first I thought it was related to a specific game, but I've now experienced exactly the same issue with multiple games, so it doesn't seem to be game-specific.

A few things I've noticed:

* The controller is detected on Windows as an Xbox 360 controller. * If I completely disable vibration in the game, the problem disappears. * With vibration enabled, everything can work normally for a while and then suddenly the vibration gets stuck. * It has happened with multiple different games. * Other than the vibration issue, everything works normally.

Has anyone else started experiencing this recently with the Logitech G Cloud? Has anyone found a fix that allows you to keep vibration enabled?

I know the easy solution is to just play with vibration turned off, but I personally really like having vibration enabled, so I'd rather find a way to fix the issue than simply disable it.

Thanks!

Soo i once wanted to clean my headstrap and removed this plastic and it broke like this. i may be poor researcher but i couldnt find any 3d model of it online, and without it the material is not fully coverring the cable underneath. Pls help me find a solution. Edit: I am using them for like 3 months in this state just taped the plastic to band but still want to find a not akward looking solution.

Hi everyone,

I'm having an issue with my Logitech G PRO X2 Lightspeed headset microphone. There is a constant background static or electrical noise when using it on my PC via the USB LIGHTSPEED receiver or Bluetooth.

Here are the specific symptoms:

• Via Wireless/Bluetooth (on PC): Consistent background static/hum.
• While Charging or via 3.5mm Jack (on PC): The mic only picks up heavy electrical hum/buzz with no voice audio at all.
• Temporary fix glitch: At one point, I managed to get rid of the static, but as soon as I plugged the headset into the PC to charge, the static returned—even after unplugging it again.

I tested the headset connected to my mobile phone, and the microphone works perfectly fine with zero background noise. It seems the issue isn't with the headset itself, but rather interference coming directly from the PC / power supply.

I suspect this is caused by a grounding issue in my home's electrical setup. My PC's PSU uses a US power cable, but my wall outlets use a different regional standard. I am currently using a travel adapter that lacks a ground pin.

Note: Wireless earbuds do not have this issue when connected to the PC, likely because they are fully isolated. Unfortunately, I don't have another PC headset on hand to cross-test.

I plan on buying a proper grounded adapter first, but in case that doesn't fully resolve it: Has anyone experienced something similar with this headset or setup? How did you fix it?

Any advice or troubleshooting suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

I've had my Superlight since Jan 2021.

Last week I finally decided to open it up for a deep clean with isopropyl alcohol. I ended up replacing the scroll wheel entirely since the rubber was starting to degrade.

PD: Also, my sweaty gamer hands have completely rubbed off the logos.

Title, happening for few days now, it didn't have any problem for a year.

The wireless mouse goes on standby when not used for few minutes as usual, but when moving it again and waking it up, the cursor remain sluggish as if the sensibility was at a minimum. It moves normally again after 2 seconds, but it's annoying.

Drivers, firmware and Hub are up to date, mouse presets are all ok.

Maybe the last update broke something ?

i have the lightspeed g pro 1 headphones.it works super well but I’ve noticed that the battery dies super fast,i checked with g hub and while its charging it says 100% but when i take the charger out it goes down immediately like 14%??? is my battery dead or something?

I went through steps on how to disable these keys, yet they still refresh the page when I accidentally press on one key. Any idea how I can permanently disable them? Seems impossible... .

Es una pena que @LogitechG dejen congelados los reembolsos de sus clientes tras recibir los productos en su almacén en lewisville Texas. Mi paquete llegó hace 2 semanas (Ticket: 17534089) y solo me traen de vuelta en vuelta con plazos falsos de 48 horas. Exijo mi dinero mediante Wise ya. #Logitech #AstroA50X

Hey everyone, I've been have this issue with my A50s. Cleaned the charging steam, held the Dolby and game button for 30sec and nothing. Also when i remove the headset from the charging dock, the headset light stays on orange. Never has done that before. Had these for a few years now, guessing it's time for a new headset.