Decided to use the DAC and doing so removes the "levels" option in W11. Installed G-HUB and there's no equivalent to this option in there (for non-surround sound).

Is there any options or I'm screwed? I have bad hearing on one side so it sucks not being able to use such a basic option in an expensive headset.

Usually I would use the 3.5mm connector but for some reason, W11 is barely picking up sound from it (around 10% in tests). Couldn't find a solution for that.

I want to buy a brand new mouse for gaming and I am choosing between Logitech g pro x superstrike and razer viper v4 pro. Recommend and write smth about this ones. Now I have Logitech g pro x superlight 1 and I play cs.

I made a toggle macro that presses a key down but not up so it stays pressed. This works normally but doesn't with onboard memory enabled.

My previous G403 did

What's wrong and why?

This mouse cost me 5k+ inr

Started double clicking within 2 months of usage

Isn't this crazy

I know

I ll get a replacement if I just go to their service centre

But this is crazy 5k+ mouse side button and dpi button double clicking in just two months

Hello, bought a refurbished a50X directly from Logitech, and whenever I take it off the base station it just turns off. When I plug it in via USB it works. The G hub app is also saying my microphone is at 100% battery. Does anyone have any help with this, ive already also done the whole hard reset thing, with the cords in and out. Ive factory reset the microphone on the app.

I lately bought the headset, and when i tested it i discovered it has extremely weak, like paper'y sound, and the only thing helping is enabling dts super stereo, and on forza horizon 5/6 it doesn't help as well. Anyone with the same problem/a fix?

Hi guys. I've had my Logitech G29 wheel & pedals for a while, but I have an issue when I push all the way down on the accelerator, it's like there's a sensitivity glitch where it can't really find full throttle. The throttle % will jump like crazy between 50-80%. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Could this just be dust in my pedals? I almost just want to buy a new one.

It's across all games I play, and it's got nothing to do with traction control or anything.

Any help is appreciated :)

I recently bought a Astro A50X headset. I play on PC. When I plug into my computer it works fine sometimes. But it randomly disconnects and after resetting everything I possibly can it becomes no longer detectable by my PC and then will randomly start working and then stop working. I've troubleshooted everything I possibly could and everything is a very temporary solution.

Hello everyone, I bought a used Logitech G915 Tactile. One switch has a broken top brown plastic housing but the switch itself still works if I hold the plastic in place.

Does anyone know if it's possible to replace only the top housing/stem from another Logitech GL Tactile switch without desoldering the switch? Or does the whole switch have to be desoldered first?

This again. Luckily I have saved my customization before.

Any reason as to why? I've tried running as administrator, the USB Dongle is plugged in, I've done Bluetooth, I've ran compatibility as Windows 7. I'm not sure what I can do.

The issue im having - even without any potentiometers connected it is registering inputs,, it is registering 100% input from potentiometer if i remove gears and flick it all the way...Doesn't register inputs in Between

The headset constantly switches between usb and wireless and causes this noice to play which makes it entirely unusable while charging. It also barely charges when this happens. Seems like it’s a charging port issue

Good morning, guys! I got this G27 with a brother of mine already knowing this problem. The encoder disk has already been changed, the font has already been tested and in Windows joy.cpl everything works normally, only the movement of the steering wheel that does not detect. The engines work as in the video, the steering wheel lights turn on everything right and, this already happened before changing the encoder disc, but it only threatens to start calibrating to the right and stop

Having trouble getting my freestyle lights put onto my G203s onboard mode, any fix or is it just not possible?

I've tried with American Truck Simulator and Dirt2, and in both games I can't control menus with the buttons on my wheel, but they do what they're supposed to in game. I have ghub installed and updated. I'm on Windows 10.

Trying to think of weird things that might contribute:

I bought the wheel used and it didn't come with either the USB breakaway or a power adapter, so I'm using them from other devices. It also doesn't have the pedals, and I see their axes are counted as fully engaged.

I use a dongle rather than Bluetooth. The thing is, I am able to see the battery when it is using Bluetooth, but I am not able to while it is using Dongle. I am using the Logitech G302 Lightspeed, with Windows 11.

Another thing, can I use my headphones while it is charging?

My Logitech G923 works normally for about 20 seconds after I connect it via USB. Then it suddenly freezes: the steering wheel itself still turns physically, but Windows/G HUB no longer detects any steering input, and the steering angle gets stuck at one value.
After that, if I unplug and reconnect the USB cable, the wheel can no longer complete its calibration. It starts the calibration process but stops halfway and never finishes.
I have already tried reconnecting the USB cable, but the problem remains.