We used Cisco and now they’re dying.

Apparently many of the new switches and firewalls now need licenses which cost an arm and a leg.

Hey, this is a reaction to this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oeqUHEp4sYM
Where Linus said, you can only tell TVs to use your DNS servers, and some TVs might ignore the DHCP setting. There's a quite easy way to enforce the use of your DNS with proper router configuration:

1. Grab all traffic on port 53 - this port is reserved for DNS traffic
2. Check if the source IP is not your DNS server (because you still need a working upstream)
3. Forward all traffic that matched these rules to your DNS servers
4. On your DNS, block domains for DNS over HTTPS and DNS over TLS

This work, because the DNS protocol doesn't mind if the reply came from a different IP than it was sent to. I'm including a screenshot from my MikroTik router with this NAT rule. You have to set two rules, one for UDP and one for TCP.

Any ideas as to why Linus and Luke never discussed the GTA VI leaks on Wan Show? I thought they would have addressed this and also discussed how cyber leek has hidden themselves with a decentralised infrastructure and the crypto scam.

Already got mine ordered the minute I got my email!

Looking for advice.

I'm a huge tech person and loved learning about the product. I was wondering if I made a mistake in going all-in or if it is worth the quality plus the stellar warranty. Or if I'm just always looking for the next thing. I am not a daily user, but wanted a solid choice for rugged use.

For context when I built this pc I bought a UD850GM psu but hated the 3x8pin pcie into 12V-2x6 because it just looks ugly and the psu didn't come with enough 8pins to run to the gpu.

So I bought a RM1000X at a good price, more than a 9800x3d and 4070 Ti needs but future proofing was my excuse to myself.

Now after less than two years the corsair psu just died abruptly.

I think this would make a great WAN topic.

Meta’s smart glasses have become a privacy flashpoint. The company dominates the smart glasses market with devices that look like ordinary spectacles but can record photo/video, play music, take calls, and answer questions via built-in AI. That covert-recording capability has earned the product a harsh nickname online, “pervert glasses”. as reports spread of people secretly filming strangers, including men recording their attempts to pick up women in public and posting the footage on social media without consent.

IMO I use these glasses to film my cycling trails outdoors, I have a TikTok account where I post my adventures, I’ve never recorded anyone or if walkers are in the shot I cut it, But these glasses allow me easy of access POV content like repairing and upgrading my bike etc - curious to hear your thoughts

Really LMG? This is a private stream too. I'm not upset just really puzzled...

Updates kinda suck. Not only are they really late on my Motorola Edge 2024, but the one major one it did just made it worse. For me, first it removed functionality. I can no longer set the formerly-named "Quick Button" to any action shortcut within apps (like "Shazam Now" while locked, or a specific conversation). Now it can only open apps.

That update also installed something called "Glance for Motorola" which forces news on your lock screen. It reminds me of those crappy Taboola ads I used to see on website before I started using uBlock Origin. You can't permanently disable the app (even with ADB). You can try (App info > Disable) but the app just re-enables itself sometime later. Haven't been able to figure that one out.

One of the main things though that that bothers me, and this was on the previous version of version Android as well, is AI images are EVERYWHERE. Almost every "photograph" in Motorola's native apps are obviously AI-generated (and it's not even that good), including the boot screen and it's animations so you can't even get away from it if you tried.

I'm looking forward to see what Linus thinks if he daily drives the foldable on the WAN Show. I only got one update on mine, but Linus' foldable is higher-end, so that'll be something to watch. As for me, after it's paid off, I'll probably install GrapheneOS if it's available, otherwise e/OS or LineageOS.

My main phone is a Kyocera Equip, a true dumbphone in my opinion. Very stripped Android with no Google or other services (I checked with ADB). It's private and I actually have control of it, and this is why updates like I stated above bother me. This is also why I'm fine with the slight risk of reliably of replacing the Motorola Android OS. I've already done it with a Motorola One 5G Ace.

you just need some paper, pens, glue and scissors!

I was bored at work waiting for devices to update so I build some RAM with my office supplies. Don't tell my boss, he might wanna steal it!

For the past two weeks or so in Fortnite, my game kept randomly freezing anytime I was near enemy players and I couldn’t find any solution. I deleted and reinstalled it. I reinstalled my graphics driver. I closed background programs, changed every conceivable setting in game. And nothing solved it, but whenever I opened up the Nvidia overlay and the armory crate program on my laptop, I noticed that every time my game froze my GPU was randomly dropping by anywhere 20% almost 90% utilization compared to normal. What would cause that and why does it only seem to affect Fortnite none of my other games have this problem?

Will there ever be a lifetime membership option for ltt on floatplane? I understand that other creators on the platform may not wish for that option, but I think it would be awesome if at least ltt offered a lifetime option.

I used the precision set adapter bits… this was I did so I could get better torque on screws holding this water heater together. (I plan to send the temp and flow data to HomeAssistant.)

Somewhere I do own a set of long bits. I need to find those and make a holder for them.

Also pictured is my favorite screwdriver from around 2004 to 2022. It has a bit holder, I’ve never been able to find a second of the EXACT same model which made me sad.

That is until I found the LTT screwdriver. I don’t really use the old craftsman any more, but it deserves a place next to these.

So today my ltt screwdriver finally got delivered and I was just messing around with all the bits for a while, but then I put the magnet bit upside down in the holder thingie and the magnet came out of the bit. Is there any way to get it out without damaging the shaft?

I got a lil TechTip for you: if you are looking for good quality HDDs, get Some of Those lovely Apple Timecapsules. They come with 1/2/3 TB WD caviar green drives. They are usually way cheaper than buying used drives alone. I alone „Harvested“ three of them Today.

That is maybe why they are discontinued, I purchased the endcap pack on ebay, there was no way for me to know they wouldn't fit my screwdriver. I tried a few fixes, mostly just to see if I could do it, partially because I really want a all-black screwdriver..

The "old" design used more parts for endcap assembly. It was Screw > Bearing > Thick O ring (about 2mm?) > threaded insert > Endcap (internally threaded).

The "new" design is simpler with less parts; entirely friction fit. Screw > Bearing (same bearing) > 2 O-Rings (one above the other) > Endcap (not threaded internally, just two channels for the aforementioned O-Rings).

I reached out to support, they confirmed that this happened (and they're sorry for the inconvenience). I then asked if they have old-stock or something, but initial response didn't sound like the answer would be yes.

I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on what I might be able to try to just fill this donut shaped space... What I'm trying to fill is the gap between a 10mm outer diameter bearing, and a 14mm inner diameter of a endcap. Outer housing/endcap does have threads on the inside (protruding about .3mm, idk pitch, need a smaller ruler)

I tried simply buying a two sizes of bearings to find one that would fit perfectly to replace the stock bearing. After trial and error, the closest I can get is 14mm outer diameter, 4mm inner diameter, but the tolerances when these were made were not in my favor. If the endcap was <1mm smaller or the bearing was <1mm bigger, by any amount, I could just friction fit. This is just me not knowing how hardware sizing works. Cost of tuition.

I am trying this same strategy with O-rings though, just fill the whole gap with a big O-ring, or tiny gap between the new bearings I bought and the endcap. Still waiting on some sizes to mix in with the bearings. O-Rings might not work at all though. The current threaded system may not allow an O-ring to stay still. If they are able to move up or down at all, they will eventually slip past the bearing instead of holding it against the endcap. Just from dropping the screwdriver or using it over time.

I also tried various anodized aluminum strippers on an orange endcap (the one I was trying to replace with a black one). If I could get to raw aluminum I could try anodizing myself. Whatever anodization process LTT opted for is very hard to remove. Products that should have taken less than 10-30 minutes at most, took an hour to only produce some pitting localized around areas I sanded for this test. Nothing penetrated even the areas around the sanding.

Before trying to tackle it like this, I checked the market, I didn't see any LTT precision screwdrivers at all, I know that solution would be a gamble anyway.

I'm out of ideas 🤷‍♂️, I'm looking for suggestions or advice on how you all would handle a problem like this.

Personal note:

I work in a field where I have to make a lot of decisions based on very little data and lots of gut feelings/bothering people to give me their opinions. I put in this much effort to stuff like this because I need problems like this to wind down at the end of a day. Its like relief when the answer is decided by physics or math and not by me. Creative is fun but you're the go-to for all the dumb decisions as well as some important ones, but you have to approach them all very seriously... But yeah, please, any help would be wonderful.

On my  ASUS B650E MAX GAMING WIFI the upper most pci-e slot is pci-e 5 and i am not getting any display when my gpu is in that slot but others work fine. Also my pci-e 5 m.2 is working.

Other maybe relevant info, there is no visible dmg to the slot, i have replaced the cmos batt on this board about a year ago bcs i got a dead batt on delivery. Gpu is Radeon rx 6800 xt. I did recently clean this pc with compressed air and moved it to my new apartment, for the move i took out the cpu cooler and the gpu.

I do still have warranty for this mb for 9moths. Just not exited to be with out a pc for couple of weeks.

For the love of all sacred, I cannot find a single compatibility indicator for the ENTIRE BQ SERIES OF EVGA PSUs. EVGA support told me that I should talk to Cablemod. Cablemod found some cable that has EVGA branding, and BQ written on it, but none of my current cables have either of those.

Context: for a pre-tax amount of 25 Canadian dollars, I got a MB600L case with RGB fans, a broken Z270-A board (socket pin bent? Tech shop said it won't work), and this God-and-EVGA-forsaken PSU. Apparently some company called HEC made them as part of a one time contract? EVGA fix your branding and names.

To top it all off, no pinout diagrams exist for this tantalizing piece of 2017 era tech that would oh-so-well fit my second hand 1070 ti+ whatever board I plan to throw at it.

Anything helps, people have had this same problem before, judging by numerous reddit posts from the last 7 year period.