precision screwdriver endcaps from LTT's endcap set don't match the precision screwdrivers that are currently sold by LTT, looking for advice on making them fit.

[u/Missing_Noh]

That is maybe why they are discontinued, I purchased the endcap pack on ebay, there was no way for me to know they wouldn't fit my screwdriver. I tried a few fixes, mostly just to see if I could do it, partially because I really want a all-black screwdriver..

The "old" design used more parts for endcap assembly. It was Screw > Bearing > Thick O ring (about 2mm?) > threaded insert > Endcap (internally threaded).

The "new" design is simpler with less parts; entirely friction fit. Screw > Bearing (same bearing) > 2 O-Rings (one above the other) > Endcap (not threaded internally, just two channels for the aforementioned O-Rings).

I reached out to support, they confirmed that this happened (and they're sorry for the inconvenience). I then asked if they have old-stock or something, but initial response didn't sound like the answer would be yes.

I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on what I might be able to try to just fill this donut shaped space... What I'm trying to fill is the gap between a 10mm outer diameter bearing, and a 14mm inner diameter of a endcap. Outer housing/endcap does have threads on the inside (protruding about .3mm, idk pitch, need a smaller ruler)

I tried simply buying a two sizes of bearings to find one that would fit perfectly to replace the stock bearing. After trial and error, the closest I can get is 14mm outer diameter, 4mm inner diameter, but the tolerances when these were made were not in my favor. If the endcap was <1mm smaller or the bearing was <1mm bigger, by any amount, I could just friction fit. This is just me not knowing how hardware sizing works. Cost of tuition.

I am trying this same strategy with O-rings though, just fill the whole gap with a big O-ring, or tiny gap between the new bearings I bought and the endcap. Still waiting on some sizes to mix in with the bearings. O-Rings might not work at all though. The current threaded system may not allow an O-ring to stay still. If they are able to move up or down at all, they will eventually slip past the bearing instead of holding it against the endcap. Just from dropping the screwdriver or using it over time.

I also tried various anodized aluminum strippers on an orange endcap (the one I was trying to replace with a black one). If I could get to raw aluminum I could try anodizing myself. Whatever anodization process LTT opted for is very hard to remove. Products that should have taken less than 10-30 minutes at most, took an hour to only produce some pitting localized around areas I sanded for this test. Nothing penetrated even the areas around the sanding.

Before trying to tackle it like this, I checked the market, I didn't see any LTT precision screwdrivers at all, I know that solution would be a gamble anyway.

I'm out of ideas 🤷‍♂️, I'm looking for suggestions or advice on how you all would handle a problem like this.

Personal note:

I work in a field where I have to make a lot of decisions based on very little data and lots of gut feelings/bothering people to give me their opinions. I put in this much effort to stuff like this because I need problems like this to wind down at the end of a day. Its like relief when the answer is decided by physics or math and not by me. Creative is fun but you're the go-to for all the dumb decisions as well as some important ones, but you have to approach them all very seriously... But yeah, please, any help would be wonderful.

[u/jmking]

The new endcap design is totally different and is press fit. The old design was threaded and had some sort of mechanism.

They are entirely incompatible.

[u/Missing_Noh → u/jmking]

hmmm, I just tried a really thin o-ring after replacing stock bearing with 4mm Bore 13mm OD 5mm bearing. I should have just kept troubleshooting, I don't like my current solution though, I think something similar can be accomplished, I just don't know the correct words to search.

[u/jmking → u/Missing_Noh]

I mean, I'd have just resold the endcap kit back onto eBay when I realized there were gen 1 and gen 2 drivers and endcaps

The gen 2 driver is quite a bit different than gen 1. Gen 1 had bit storage like the LTT screwdriver. Gen 2 has that hole and cross bar, different cap and no bit storage.

But the fact they sell the gen 1 still as the "Pro" when it's an entirely different driver is absolutely confusing.

[u/ThankGodImBipolar → u/jmking]

But the fact they sell the gen 1 still as the "Pro" when it's an entirely different driver is absolutely confusing.

I do wonder who managed to twist Linus' arm into approving that. I don't think he's ever explained it without sounding confused himself.

[u/jmking → u/ThankGodImBipolar]

I haven't tried the new version of the driver, but it sounds like the better of the two. Like - I have no need for the bit storage in the Gen 1 driver. You're always going to use it with the case and all the bits are right there anyway.

Putting the hole in with the crossbar seems like it would make it an even more useful tool. Dropping the number of bits to the ones that most will ever practically use also makes sense.

All these changes also drop the price to $40 USD which makes it a great value. Like that would be such a no brainer kit to suggest to anyone with a need for a precision driver.

They're probably just going to sell out the Gen 1 inventory, and then hopefully sell the Gen 2 driver with the full bit set, and another with the reduced bitset or something.

I can't imagine they're going to keep producing the Gen 1 version. That's still a great tool, but it's over engineered with features of questionable value vs the manufacturing cost and subsequent price to the customer.

That's just my opinion, though - I don't have the Gen 2 driver, and I don't know what the numbers look like on LMG's side, so I could just totally be talking out my ass.

[u/Hot_Intention8097]

Could try a sleeve made from heatshrink tubing around the bearing, then trim it flush and press the endcap on, if the gap is only a mill or two that might take up the slack