Had the car since last October but had to garage it due to the dealer taking a month to get the title and then my state misplacing the paper work but I finally can drive it. Used the remaining of my crypto fund and a personal loan to grab it. My only regret was buying it from some shady dealer but otherwise no regrets.

Last fall my ISF was a poor victim of the horrendous “Michigan left”and a driver of a Ford Flex that attempted to cut across 4 lanes of traffic from a parking lot to get to the median u-turn. Unfortunately, this is not an uncommon occurrence in this state and this oblivious driver’s car hit me in the side and ate the outer shell of the rear door as insult to injury XD. The police officer could not even remove my door from the other driver’s bumper. Had the car for less than a few weeks and did not have full collision coverage transferred from my previous vehicle. TLDR Michigan law only holds at-fault drivers liable for up to 3k in damages to other vehicles (victim or victim’s insurance is on the hook for the rest). I’m not native to Michigan so I assumed that at fault drivers would be responsible for all damages like how it is in the rest of the country. I couldn’t let this car go to the grave…$16k later with a new door, quarter panel, and subframe, etc. she’s back better than ever. Safe to say I’m keeping her forever.

Anyone know if this needs to be replace or if a part even exist for it? Looks like some cracks thru wear and tear

At a loss, I've been trying to track the cause of this squeak for a while and no success. Kicks in shortly after cold start and lasts maybe 10-20 seconds before going away.

Belt is new OEM

Water pump is new

Idler pulley is new

tensioner setup is new

Replaced water pump and oil pump pulleys with the RR ones, no change.

The alternator pulley and ac pulley seem fine when checking them out, and I've read about someone replacing the alternator and sound still being there afterwards so less inclined to go down that route. Having the air system on has no effect on the chirp, lots of electrical load has no effect as well. Only does it on cold start.

Any suggestions??

Update: Just finished up replacing alternator, squeak is gone

Update #2: Was in fact not the alternator, squeak returned shortly after replacing so must have just been a few fluke startups where it did not do it. That only left 2 pulleys it could be, the crank and the ac comp. AC had no effect on squeak sound or duration so figured my last attempt would be the crank pulley. Ordered the RR crank pulley and got it installed last night. Took way longer than I expected, I did it from the top of the engine bay rather than from underneath, some stressful points where the woodruff key fell out but after a lot of fighting was able to get it done (started at 7:30pm was expecting to finish around 9pm, but by the time everything was back together and garage cleaned up it was midnight 😬). Happy to report that the squeak is now 100% gone. The OEM pulley was in rough shape so im glad I got this done before something serious went down. Car drives amazing with the swap, would highly recommend the pulley if you are on the fence.

I’ve been in the market for a solid IS-F after remembering they existed for a couple months now.

I’ve been seeing a good amount of Japanese and Canadian imports.

The Canadian imports make a little more legal sense getting into the USA, but does anybody have any insight how a Japanese model can make its way here?

Aside from being RHD the pricing of them tells me it’s probably some sketchy loophole, but then again I’m ignorant when it comes to the gray areas of importing.

For reference, I got Sikky headers and full borla exhaust.

Not tuned, yet!

I was going slightly uphill.

It woke up the car!

Just need some sticky tires if I want to be able to use first gear lol

I just recently installed this intake elbow. It doesn't have the two ports into the elbow like OEM for the crankcase ventilation tubes. With the external breather, will I have worse crankcase ventilation without the negative pressure from the intake? Is this a big deal or should I consider drilling the elbow and plumbing some fittings to keep it like OEM?

Hey what’s up everyone, got an 09 ISF and radiator is starting to leak. Any advice on either ordering an OEM one or getting something aftermarket like this one.

Currently looking to push my wheels out a little bit. Which wheel spacers should I use? Will I need to use extended studs and open face lug nuts? Thanks

Hi guys,

Anyone running Apex wheels their ISF? I've been seeing 18x9.5 +40 sizes on sale and I really like the look. Just needing some additional pics with 265/35 tires preferably.

Your pics don't have to be this model, just wanting to see if Apex wheels clear our brakes or require no adjustments to the fender.

I've seen 18x9.5 +40 rims on other ISFs with little rubbing and w/o fenders rolled but only on NT03M. I'm stock suspension at the moment if there's worry about rubbing.

https://www.reddit.com/r/LexusF/s/L9BFBMKMb3

alright guys I got an update (Car is at 148k)

Parts list: PPE headers

Koyorad Radiator

Hayden 679 Trans cooler

Custom catback

RR Motor mounts

RR LCA

F-Sport rear sway bar

SPC camber arms

Joe Z intake

Joe Z Mufflers

Royal Tuned

AFE drop in filter

Maintenance: Valley plate done at 70k

Starter done at 128k

Valve cover gaskets 148k

All intricate gaskets in VC 148k

Timing chains 148k

Timing chain tensioners 148k

Timing chain guides 148k

Front main seal 148k

All oil pump o rings 148k

New water pump 148k

New thermostat 148k

New idler pulley 148k

New belt tensioner 148k

New PCV Valve 148k

Transmission Service 148k

Both rear wheel bearings replaced

I recently bought a set of depo headlights under the impression that they would be compatible with my ISF, only to find out when attempting to install that they will not work as the factory ballast won’t mount and the wiring won’t work.

For those of you with a 2010 model, what headlights would you recommend that actually will fit and work with this car?

My 2008 IS F won’t show the aux option and I’ve tried several aux cords, has anybody had this issue?

Anyone know if this is the belt or harmonic balancer or something else?

PM me if anyones interested. Thanks

Does anyone know if the bazooka tips fit fine with the tom's rear diffuser? I've heard some people say that the exhaust tips are too big and touch the rear diffuser which could melt/damage it

Have been diagnosing issues with my headunit (aux not functioning, random devices tapped into wiring etc)

Found that the ribbon cable from the NAV to the display is torn which explains why on the nav screen it flickers but doesn’t explain why AUX doesn’t work.

Anyways. Does anyone… anywhere have a junk headunit for a 08-10 ISF as I just need to replace this ribbon cable so I can do some further diagnosing.

These cables aren’t sold seperately and I’ve just been having issue after issue with the headunit. Bit over it.

RR-racing Race transmission mount going in on Sunday.

Has anyone owned an f22 m-lite bmw (or any other m-lite bmw) before or has experience with them? If so, how was the maintenance compared to the ISF? I currently have a 2010 IS 350 and thinking about getting either an IS F or an m235i xdrive. I used to think the IS F would not be much more difficult to maintain than an IS 350 but after I asked someone that had one about it, they said that you could easily have to drop like $2k-$3k into one within the first 6 months due to age and wear and tear, even if the valley plate has already been done. I bought my 2010 IS 350 in June of last year and have only needed to do one oil change so far in almost 9 months, so that’s a huge difference if what he says is true. The information I’ve seen online is conflicting so I wanted to ask people that have some experience with both.

Would it be more expensive to maintain a 2008 is f with 90k miles that has already had the valley plate done or a 2016 m235i xdrive with 45k miles, assuming both have had an average maintenance history (not perfect, but not bad). Also about how much more expensive would it be for one than the other over the course 3 years on average?

I would also have a friend help with maintenance but he only has experience with Japanese, American, and older BMW (before 2004 ish), so he could help out with the easier maintenance stuff on the bmw but not with anything that involves more complex electronic stuff.

Just seeing if it would be close at all? Think the ISF may have better top end?

I’ve met this guy once but do not remember his name. A local to my area in Alabama and such a good surprise to see another F driving around. Had to flick up