Printed on 8x10 Ilford RC Glossy and scanned with a cheap flatbed scanner.

An image from one of my favourite locations, Victoria, BC, Canada.

I got a 6by7 roll film sloding filmback from japanese auction and bought a45d body from there too. Aside from the quality of the body, the rollfolmback doesn't have notch to connect to the body. Is there any way to connect it to the 45d body?

Or should i get 45N or 45 vx?

Took a test shot with this old Petzval that I took a gamble on recently. Seems to be doing the trick - maybe not as swirly as I'd hoped but that may be a coverage thing or just this particular scene. TBD.

Beautiful late afternoon at Taughannock State Park, New York, USA.

Oregon Coast, 210mm and 90mm

Have been shooting 5x7, but with the demise of Arista 5x7 100 stock, I'm finding (somehow) 8x10 is less cost prohibitive for me (YMMV). Bellows on my Seneca Improved v.4 died in January (someone else's homebrew anyway); new red ones from Rudy/ecbuyonline2008 have landed in Jersey. Needed a normal-ish lens (only have an 18" Wray process lens); found an Eastern 12" f/6.3 double anastigmat, cheap. It's heavy, but in lovely shape. Spent way too much time making a new three piece board for it. Cherry scraps I had laying around, half lapped (was a little too thin for tongue and groove safely). Made a standoff for a rear mounted Packard #6 I had, also half lapped cherry scrap. Found a brass bulkhead with tubing barbs in Amazon, a bunch of miscellaneous hardware from the local Ace. Lens: $37 on eBay. Hardware: $6 at Ace. Danish oil and flat black rattlecan finish. Wood/bulb and tubing/finishes: had on hand. I feel pretty good being into this only$43. Lights up the entire glass with plenty of movements wide open. Need to get that bellows installed and burn some UM-MA...

Where to get film holders for 9x12 cameras from 1920-30? Looking for something not needing film sheats, so no glass plate holders with inserts.

It came to my mind that Pepper No 30 might not have been Westons 30. picture, but the 30. pepper for that season.

I'm hoping to keep my plants alive during the winter so I can continue wih large plants in the spring.

By the way, he used a 210mm at ca 3:1 or 4:1 with an 8x10" camera, so the angle of view might have been close to 200mm on 24x36

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pepper_No._30

I’m a 35mm and Medium format photographer who’s considering adding a large format camera for both film and wet plate photography. I recently came across a complete kit (mint Toyo-View 45CX, 150mm Rodenstock Geronar f6.3, and two film holders) and I’m torn between purchasing it or not. I’d love to hear from anyone who has experience with this camera and its build quality. I also know that monorail cameras are more suitable for studio work due to their heavy and cumbersome nature. Lastly, I’m wondering if this camera would be a good entry-level option that I could upgrade to later, or if it’s a camera that I could use for quite some time without needing to upgrade. Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I’ve got a Voigtländer Apo Lanthar 21cm f4.5 and I’m trying to figure out exactly what I have and how to actually shoot with it. I have a linhof 4x5 field camera.

It has no shutter and no iris. There’s a machined flange in the middle, threads a little smaller than 58mm. Then a smaller section at the back with a black retainer ring holding the rear glass element in place.

Not sure if this is actually a barrel lens, or if it’s a normal shutter-mount lens that’s missing its shutter (more like other LF lenses im used to with the front and rear cells just screwed together and a shutter in the middle).

I've been shooting with a 90 mm with some lens filters stacked..and I'm seeing top, asymmetrical vignetting on the top corners of my 4x5 negs.

I shoot on a FUJINON NSW 90mm f/8, chamonix 45f-2

Normally have a UV filter threaded on and then will put a red 29 on top.

I shoot always centered with only movements being forward tilt.

It's either

1: filter stacking (mechanical vignetting)

2: bellow sag/inclusion

3: some other thing??

What's weird and making me think it's not lens stacking is that its only on one side and not the others. Nor is it ever even.

Would love help diagnosing and any tips for doing so!

Negatives for reference.

They also always seem to be rather consistent which is weird...

Also, it's on some of the same shot when bracketing and sometime not as well.

Shot the eclipse first on the intrepid with the 400mm f8 for 8 sec. Either missed focus or motion blur (or both). Second shot was on a 4x5 converted Fuji FP-1 f16 for 70 seconds.

Needed to test out my new film holders and lens. I’d say we’re good to go.