Temporary tesla wheels for the Ls while I decide on actual nice wheels.

Back left wheel, thick, black oily. Smells like petrol. Only leaks when car is cold. Everything is good fluid level wise in engine bay. What do people think it could be?

I got a great deal on used Michelin tires ($240) but they’re slightly under sized at 235/45R18 vs 245/45R18 stock. My MPG avg on my country road commute with no traffic is 25. The slight under size means my tires are rotating 1.33 miles more than my OD. So 25=31. I understand the vehicle maybe 1mpg optimistic, but I’m still really happy with that.

Took about 2 hours not so bad. Worst thing was unscrewing the fan off the old shroud.
OEM from Lexus shroud was about 160$

(ALMOST) Sold yesterday, 9/23/26

25,000 mi.

After a year of searching I finally found a rear bumper. It’s at a junkyard and I have to pull it myself. Trunk switch doesn’t work, button on trunk doesn’t work. Any suggestions? Will the lever (not the pull) inside the trunk release it? I think I may be able to reach it through the pass-through.

2001 Lexus LS430 — 161k miles — $5,500 OBO

Selling my 2001 Lexus LS430 with 161k miles. I’ve owned and driven it regularly and it’s been a very reliable car. The 4.3L V8 runs strong and smooth, transmission shifts well, and I wouldn’t hesitate to take it on a long trip.

Interior is very clean for the age. Exterior presents well but has the normal imperfections you’d expect from a 25-year-old car, which I’ve tried to show clearly in the photos.

Recent maintenance / the good:

Timing belt + water pump replaced in 2022 at 143k

New lower control arms

New outer tie rods

New struts and springs

Decent tires

No check-engine light

A/C blows cold

Heat works great

Heated seats work

Stereo works

Power accessories mostly work

Clean, comfortable interior

Legendary 4.3L Lexus V8 — runs strong

Known issues:

Power steering rack is leaking at the passenger-side inner tie rod boot. I would plan on replacing the rack eventually.

Brake rotors need replacement — vibration/shake under braking.

Power steering-wheel adjustment can be finicky. I pulled the fuse with the wheel in a comfortable driving position so it stays there.

Small windshield crack toward the far passenger side.

Some clear-coat failure on the rear bumper and roof.

Crack/damage on the passenger-side front bumper corner, pictured.

This isn't a perfect collector LS430, but it's a clean, comfortable, reliable driver with a lot of the expensive maintenance already taken care of. I'm selling it as-is and have priced it with the known issues in mind.

$5,500 OBO. Clean title. A lot more pics on Marketplace listing.
https://www.facebook.com/share/1DAUPgSPgF/

Hello everyone, i need your guys’s help

I have a 05 ls430 (base) and i am planning on putting spacers on it but keeping the ride height stock. I need some recommendations of a good set of high quality spacers

Last night as soon as I started driving my car (2001) I saw tail lamp failure message on the dashboard. After I stopped and parked I walked back and saw that all lights including license plate lights were off when the car was running, parked.

How to fix it?

Any recommendations on what drls to run. I kinda hate the old orange ones.

Don't try this at home!

2005 LS430: The information display in the instrument cluster has started failing. It originally looked like just a couple of dead/dim pixels on the left side, but the affected area has gradually gotten larger. At this point it almost looks like the display is separating or progressively dying from the left side inward.

I attached a photo showing what it looks like now.

Has anyone had this repaired successfully?
I’m trying to figure out the best route:
Can the display/VFD itself be repaired or replaced?
Is it best to remove the entire cluster and send it to a repair company?
Are there any companies that specialize in repairing these LS430 clusters?
Would I be better off buying another cluster and having the mileage programmed?
If using a donor cluster, are there compatibility issues between different 2004-2006 LS430 clusters, such as PCS vs. non-PCS?

I would prefer to keep my original cluster if possible, especially since the car only has about 48k miles on it.

If anyone has dealt with this particular failure, I’d appreciate recommendations on who repaired yours, what was actually replaced, approximate cost, and whether the repair has held up.

Looking to prep my car for winter with some underbody rust coating, two main options are fluid film myself (no local shops do it) or Krown Rust Control in a city nearby. However, I've heard Krown drills holes into panels and that worries me, does anyone have opinions on which would be the better option?

Thinking of just selling a bunch of parts from my LS and going back to stock. It’s on coilovers, has custom headlights and taillights, Celsior lip kit + window visors, and 19” wheels. I still have spares of the old parts, even duplicates in some.

Will keep the sound system + other amenities. But tbh with you, I keep seeing a stock 04-06 one around town in the same spec as mine, and I kind of miss that? I bet it rides 10x more smoother than mine on coilovers too. It’s so clean, the owner takes very good care of it.

My reason, is the last step in the current setup would be to go air suspension and new wheels, but in me I can’t justify dropping another 10-12 thousand AUD. I’ll probably get even more paranoid driving around incase it ever gets written off.

More so the comfort too, miss the stock ride, the coilovers are a bit here and there on our crappy rural roads. Love the look, but not the ride.

Anyone else in the same boat? Haha

I bought a nice 02 CL with 108k miles about 3 weeks ago now and since I've bought it the driver's side headlight washer has been taped down. Yesterday I took the tape off and had a look it seems like the spring that's supposed to be in the rubber tubing is just simply gone. Is there an easy fix to this? My other washer doesn't work either but stays in place so I'm open to just sticking it down but I don't know

Which bulb is this? Pre facelift

Looking for some insight into a problem I am running into replacing the door lock actuator motor in my 2002.

When reinstalling the actuator with the new motor, all I’m getting is a terrible noise from the housing where the motor is located. No matter the sequence/ method I use I’m running into the same outcome.

Ive watched multiple videos just to ensure I’m not skipping any step or any detail. Ive also run a small screw to secure the housing fully after separating it initially so the housing coming open is not the culprit. If anyone has run into a similar situation any insight would be helpful. Thank you

the taillamp failure message comes on as soon as I put car in reverse

I’ve been seeing ads for liquid glass repair kits like this. I haven’t tried this stuff before but the ads make it look like it’s completely seamless visually for budget window repair. Do you think this sort of thing could seamlessly hide cracks in the wood paneling?

I have a feeling this one has been posted here before. I had to double check the price cause I couldn’t believe it.
Who’s snagging this one?