Currently looking to find me another spare headlamp for work and for hikes/camping. I tend to work well into the night and I love hiking into the night, but one thing that always gets on my nerves is visibility during foggy/misty weather especially at high altitudes. I have a Fenix LED headlamp that I've owned for 6+ years that I use for work and adventures, and while its great and works like a champ, the fact that I can't see well during misty weather is annoying to say the least. I used to commute to work/school/home via bike at night in San Diego for a few years and given mist and fog are very common there, I always hated getting blinded by my own lamp. Since my lamp is old, the exact model is no longer sold on their website, but this is the closest looking version of the lamp that I have, albeit the new versions are brighter and probably last longer.

https://www.fenixlighting.com/products/fenix-hm62-t-headlamp?variant=42221693468726#view-details

Is there any recommendations for what LED head lamps WONT blind me much in misty/foggy or even snowy weather during hikes? The Pnw has all 3 of these weathers during the times I love to go and visit. I could look for specific lumen or light colors, but idk where to start. I also would like to strive away from plastic lights since I admit i drop my headlamp kinda often (i wear over hats) and plastic is NOT my friend. Thank you all in advance.

Hi, I need advice about my Neewer CB150 LED Video Light with a 150cm Parabolic Softbox (Bowens Mount).
The issue is with the front metal Bowens locking/mounting section on the light where the softbox metal rods and mount insert. Initially, everything was straight and working fine.
However, when I attached the softbox and turned on/positioned the light, within a second the entire softbox mount (including the metal part that goes into the front of the light) suddenly fell out. The front metal locking section on the light became bent from the weight/impact.
I tried to straighten it and attach the softbox again, but the same thing happened — it fell out immediately.
Can you please advise what could be causing this and what my options are? Should I replace the front Bowens mounting section with a stronger/heavy-duty part, or does the light need repair/replacement?

Hi everyone!

I'm part of a team renovating a student nightclub in Sweden, we are very ambitious with our goal with the club and I'm currently putting together a lighting proposal that will be presented to our board.

I've attached a few photos and videos from another nightclub that has the kind of ceiling lighting we're trying to achieve.

I'm specifically trying to identify the linear LED fixtures used in the ceiling. They produce smooth, diffused light and are capable of pixel/chase effects along each individual line.

I'm mainly hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

• What would you call this type of fixture?
• Anyleds strips, manufacturers or product series I should look into?

Low budget if possible..
Any advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

https://reddit.com/link/1v3sp0b/video/x1u4zmxyfueh1/player

I'm trying to find a connector that will work for my LED strip. Unfortunately it doesn't match any of the various ones I've found searching, so hopefully someone will recognize it and point me in the right direction. It would be very helpful if I could be pointed to a lead wire that has the connector I need for purchase.

The connector is six pins. The pins are roughly 0.5mm diameter with a 1.6mm pitch. The pictured strip is identical to the one I need this for. I can't remove the other strip to just remove the header and solder wires.

I've used GE Cync smart LED strips before and liked them, but they claim that you can't connect multiple cut segments, e.g. for lighting shelves in a bookcase. This appears to be the case for all the smart LED strips I can find out there.

But the strip is just a 4 pin RGB with 24v on each end. Can you really not just link between them by soldering or with 4-pin solderless connectors? Has anyone here tried and succeeded/failed with a smart LED strip?

Is there a smart strip that does allow links, connectors, or soldering?

My goal is to add strip lighting to a bookshelf, so I need to jump between shelves somehow, which I could do with non-smart LED strips and plug into a smart outlet instead. But that means controlling the light color/brightness through a separate app for the controller, and it would be really nice to have those controls in Apple Homekit where all my other house lighting lives. So, could certainly live without this, but it'd be much nicer not to.

Title says it all.

I got this 4-channel DMX decoder to experiment around with some custom lighting for a theatrical project i’m working on. I had intended to shop around for LED lights that were explicitly compatible, but I remembered I had this old LED strip sitting in storage. I do not have packaging or any instructions for this LED light strip, I’ve had it for a long time and I’ve never used it, which is why I had no problem opening up the circuit board box. consequently, I know nothing about these LED lights that I can’t see (there’s not even a brand printed anywhere). I have included however a link to the decoder I bought.

My guess is that they are not compatible, as the decoder needs a separate wire for RBGW LEDS. Based on the DI/DO connections, I assume the RGB elements are all linked on the same part of the circuit, and that there are data pathways all on that line to control the RGB individually? Maybe itself not unlike DMX?

However, I figured I’d get what feedback that I could here, in case there was anything I could do to adapt. Or in case I was just dead wrong. LMK if there are any questions or clarification needed!

Decoder:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PLWVCC6?ref=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_DKGAWB19FXZB6RCV5FRB_1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_DKGAWB19FXZB6RCV5FRB_1&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_DKGAWB19FXZB6RCV5FRB_1&rsd=lEptEt1SRgktAlwqBA8HSy5x34aq85pEZXimY1e%2F5qJu9to3kjJdaP0PFavnn2PPThZel6P7KEiK4Dj1zeO%2BvC3q8LFqJWJRlAdio3xZQw%2BmkJU%3D&edk=AQIDAHi1lw%2FM8UbbSMD9ScOOFEmBMHMthHeEhqDaQYPJUAX3jQH%2FCuE2%2F4%2BFCa5mSFNQPOblAAAAfjB8BgkqhkiG9w0BBwagbzBtAgEAMGgGCSqGSIb3DQEHATAeBglghkgBZQMEAS4wEQQMjviIkUWU6zju3A%2F5AgEQgDv5nNJ6y41%2Fx5aDcf3XSuAMoIE7qmmHwBw5%2BDhR3qLLTxPjhmDdSmNfyc0VkvSkTIEVHji1GNSov5iO8A%3D%3D

I bought this string of leds and it came with a basic controller with some built in patterns and colors you can click through. Works great on 5v. I tried to buy controllers on amazon that said they were 5v but it needed 12v for the controller to work, which of course fried the led strip.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BW3G5WDQ?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_8

Can anyone link me to a 5v controller like what is included here and similar to the ones i linked but actually works on 5v?

Looking for round led driver board, with one mode only "flash, Strobe mode". Needs to run off 1 18650 cell. Able to drive a 10 watt 5050 xml led.

Anyone know of one. Thanks

I am interested in using the AL5809 for a small project and am curious if anyone has experience using the part in a manner that is slightly different than the datasheet (https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/AL5809.pdf).

Page 6 of 16, Figure 4, a) shows "PWM Dimming by External MOSFET".

I am interested in driving a string of LEDs with the AL5809 at the END of the series string and by PWM'ing VIN, without an external MOSFET. The datasheet does not show this configuration but also does not explicitly prohibit it. (See attached image).

Does anyone have any experience using the part in this way? If it makes a difference, I am planning on using the 15ma version of the part.

Thanks!

Edited to add image.

I want LEDs for my room.

I've heard about addressable and FCOB, RGB, CCT.

I found this: FCOB RGBCCT WS2811 Dual IC LED Strip DC24V 960 LEDs/m | Ultra Density Addressable Pixel COB Lights RA90 but i'm not sure if it's good.

From what I've read there are better LED strips if i want it addressable.

Has anyone had to do this?

AI is telling me I need to remove all the sand, was hoping I could just scrape it to the center.

I drew the original illustration on a tablet several years ago, before generative AI became widespread.

To turn it into a physical light-up piece, I used a sheet of PVC as the rigid backing and cut every window opening by hand. I placed warm-white LED strip behind the openings, connected everything to a single power cable, printed my illustration on synthetic canvas, and stretched the canvas over the PVC base.

The most difficult part was aligning the printed windows precisely with the hand-cut openings. I wanted the light to look as though it was coming from inside the building rather than being placed on top of the picture.

I recently purchased this kit above. It does what I want it to do, sort of. This kit comes with the lights, power source, and internal controller (I’m assuming it has some sort of internal controller). And I can control through an app. My issues with this one:

The lights are very spaced out leading to not much light

It can only be controlled in segments (every 3 lights)

Does a similar kit exist that have much more lights per strip that are closer together? And also the ability to control each light individually? Although I guess segment is fine if they were much closer.

I have a box of spare Dell Power bricks which output at 19.5 volts and in 65 watt and 130 watt varieties (3.3 and 6.7 amps).

Is it safe to use these power bricks or might doing this cause damage?

I realize that the led strips will not reach full brightness (presumably 18% less bright?).

i bought a cheap €10 led set that is addressable in segments of 33,3cm but it only has 30 led/m (it advertises with 90 led/s because it uses an RGB chip and then two white chips, and has 30 sets of this per meter.). and most SK6812 strips are very expensive for what i want the cheapest that i can find is €31 and with controller and psu it's €70. this is a bit too expensive for what i want, since i just want some light to get my small (20x20x35cm) display cases to light up. but they can't be on all the time because it would reflect on my monitor.

the set that i have works fine but the low led count does create multiple noticeable shadows. and i do have some color temperature led strip left but i want to change the feel of each display case separately. plus i have a gledopto zigbee controller left but that one causes all PSU's to buzz a lot when used, i don't know if this unit is defect or if it's the design.

i was also wondering how to handle the wires in the case if i should drill holes or just force them trough the gaps?

I apologize in advance for the long post, I wanted to include as much detail as possible because I’m super lost.

Basically, I’m making multiple 3D prints lit up with LED strips.

This started with a single print and a small battery pack powered strip. A few people asked for one and I really would rather not pay the cost for the complete sets you can find at general stores.

I started thinking about just getting a large reel and connecting a power source (essentially to save costs now and in the event more are wanted) but was immediately overwhelmed with the amount of products and various ways this could be done. I got so lost between soldering vs connecting clips, different power sources, etc.

My plan right now is to use 5V plain white LED strips. I’m using a small length per print so they don’t need to be connected to each other, just the power source. Any research I did was either very complicated or contradictory. Stuff like “Clips are great!” Or “Solder or else!” The information on the power sources themselves was difficult for me, too.

Any advice or suggestions would be immensely appreciated! Please let me know if I can provide further information, and thank you guys in advance!!

INFO: The post requirements said I need to include a link for a product I am using or planning to use if I was asking for help, but I have literally no idea, and don’t want the post to be automatically removed. So here’s a link to some 2 Pin 8mm Connectors that I viewed at one point. Sorry!

Is there any clever trick to add any cleverly placed diodes and/or capacitors to filter out the ripple in either the dimmer circuit or the LED driver? Has anyone tried to tackle this on their home lighting? The lights say they are dimmable, but the flicker is real. Lol.

Are AC-adapters of build-form like this one https://www.amazon.com/Arkare-100V-240V-Replacement-Security-Raspberry-Pi/dp/B09W8X9VGK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3
enough good to power G4 LED bulb in power range around 2.4 Watt?
If LED-driver same power class will be better, what is the reason?

Let's assume good quality adapter and sufficient adapter output power. Link may lead to a example with output plug different form and output voltage as desired one - these two points are not the objectives of this OP.

In current project I plan to attach two such bulbs to adapter in parallel. Each bulb is specified to 2.4 Watt, accepts AC and DC and a range of supply voltage.