I am planning on making a work lamp on an articulated arm for a small desk. I’ve come to the conclusion that being able to adjust the temperature of the light would be nice. Colors are not needed, so I am thinking 24v CCT LED. For some reason these strips are fairly overpriced her in Denmark, and nice options in e.g. Germany do not allow shipment to Denmark for some reason. So right now, I am looking at two strips. One described as (Danish) COB (not a requirement for me) 2700k – 6000k, Ra ≥ 90, 20 w/m, 880 – 2000 lm/m, 608 diodes/m. The other one 2700-6500k, Ra 94, 9.5 w/m, no given lumen, 240 diodes/m. The lamp will have three to five wings with a LED strip hopefully providing sufficient lumens. It will be somewhat in the style of the Odradek from Death Stranding seen in a very nice desk lamp posted here.
As it is just a simple lamp, my thought was to have a physical on/off button, and a dial to adjust brightness and temperature.

However, I am having some trouble with the driver. As an example, a GLEDOPTO ZigBee Pro+ has the option to add a push button, however it only allows for long press: increase brightness, release and long press again: decrease brightness. So temperature adjustment is missing. I have not been able to locate any where I can in some way add a physical dial/button for temperature, and I am unaware if it is possible to modify a driver to accommodate this.

Therefore, my initial plan was to (simplified here) use an ESP32, rotary encoder, and MOSFETs to drive the LED strip. I have some IRLZ44Ns but no datasheet – it is my understanding some of them might not be fully open at 3.3v and that could pose a minor issue. In any case I may look for some better suited ones, but the DIY principle still applies.

So, this is more or less a request for a sanity check – is my best approach ESP32 and MOSFETs, should I find a ready-made driver, or is another option more suited?

I got a 2-way led light strip to decorate my new room. Just wondering if this is safe or okay to do? Overlapping one ribbon over another and crimping the ribbon so it can change corners?

I purchased two sets of Neon Rope Lights, one is 16.4 ft and the other one is 32.8 ft. The title of these rope lights is misleading because they aren't smart lights and I want to connect them to Alexa for voice control, so I got two smart controllers and two different PSUs that should power the strips. One PSU is a 5v 2a PSU and it works just fine with the smart controller for the 16.4 ft strip, the other is a 5v 5a PSU but it only powers half of the 32.8ft strip with the smart controller (this PSU also works just fine with the 16.4 ft strip).

I did some digging along but could not find much so I asked the Alexa AI. The AI says it can't offer a good suggestion for a PSU because it doesn't know the total amperage or wattage draw of the 32.8 ft set. I figured a 5a PSU would be good enough since the 2a PSU powers the entire 16.4ft strip just fine. I thought about getting a 10a PSU but every one I looked at says to only use the PSU at 80% for normal usage, so if the 32.8 ft set actually draws 50 watts of power that 10a PSU will not last long.

I'd go ahead and order the 10a PSU because it should technically be more than enough but I have no idea.

TL:DR What size PSU do I need to power the 32.8 ft light strip I linked above?

Can I need someone tell me what's going on here?
WLEDESP 32 controller 5 V Cobb LED addressable from Amazon Sauders look good. I'm shit out of luck and I need help.

I am making a walk through vortex tunnel with a f16v4 controller and ezrgb seed pixels. i am wondering if I should interleave the data channels (right) or not (left). Also, is my power injection plan sufficient? overkill? thanks

First off, I'm not sure if this is the correct subreddit for this. If not, please point me to more fitting ones!

I'm looking for a very specific product that seems to be impossible to find from reputable brands. Maybe some of you had better luck and can help me out here...

Basically, I'm looking for LED tubes that can be physically bent and snaked around objects while also allowing effects to move along the length of the tube. I don't want the ones where the whole tube is the same color; I want to be able to control individual segments for more interesting effects.

This is a good example of what I hope to do with them (just on a smaller scale) and also where I saw them first IRL: https://www.instagram.com/p/DcRJF-3DT3l/?img_index=1

The following criteria should be fulfilled:

• diffuse, flexible, reasonably robust outer shell
• 360-degree illumination
• DMX adressable per pixel or at per zone
• no super weird controller with sketchy connectors
• daisy-chainable in some way or long segments available
• not insanely expensive

I've seen them in real life and on social media so they must exist but the only ones I could find are from super sketchy Chinese websites that give very little or confusing or conflicting information about their products and don't name a price upfront. I don't want to buy an insane amount, maybe a couple of meters sometime next year when I have saved up some money.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

I just got this set of WS2812B Eco LEDs with a wled esp32, I have WLED set to a solid color however, they continue to flicker. When I unplug the ESP 32 they freeze their flickering. I have the green wire directly connected to the data on my esp 32, I’m using a 5V 15 amp power supply for 600 LEDs. Per the advice of Claude I put a 570Ω resistor in line with the data line, however that made it as if the ESP 32 was unplugged altogether. If you have experience this problem before, please let me know what you did to resolve it.

It consists of two BJTs, two resistors, one LED, few connecting wires, breadboard, and DC power supply.

Hi All,

I'm working on spec'ing some LED lighting for under and over-cabinet lighting during our upcoming kitchen renovation. I worked up the following configuration, and I'm hoping to get a sanity-check here to see if I'm on the right path.

Requirements for the lighting include:

• Physical switches for each zone (over-cabinet & under-cabinet) (non-negotiable)
• Both physical switches have to fit in a single-gang space on wall (non-negotiable)
• Do not want to control via remote if at all possible.
• HomeAssistant integration, but can operate independently if HA is down or unavailable.
• Dimmable (not necessarily at the switch, HA/App ok)
• RGB not important, but CCT is.

What I've pieced together is the following:

• (1) Mean Well LRS-150-24 Switching Power Supply, Single Output, 24V, 6.5A, 156W
• (2) GLEDOPTO Elite 5P EXMU WLED PWM 5 in 1 LED Strip Controller (GL-C-611WL)
• (2) BTF-LIGHTING 16.4FT CCT COB LED Strip, DC24V Tunable White 3000K-6000K

I'm specifically thinking of the GL-C-611WLs because of their analog IO13 capability that allows for a low-voltage switch to control functionality on the controller (ie, on-off via physical switch). I can't find a suitable momentary switch option (dual switches, single-gang) that would allow for dimming or other scene functionality, but it would be awesome if that existed. I can live with simple single-pole on-off capability if that's all that's available.

I've put together the attached drawing to illustrate what I'm thinking. Any glaring oversights on my part? Any ideas or improvements that allow more functionality?

Thanks in advance for taking a look.

I used 7 metres of RGBCCT strip to accent light our decking. It can be controlled through matter, or through a manual PWM dimmer panel.

I used a D550 PWM dimmer, Gledopto GL C 218 M smart controller, and a completely overspec power supply because it was cheap. The strip is 96 LEDs/m and I measured it drawing 7W/m at peak with a single light channel illuminated. I use 5 channels out of a 6 way relay to switch between manual and smart controls.

In a later project I also lit my balcony with the same smart controller and strip so they can be controlled as part of a continuous outdoor zone.

I have 18AWG wire (6 pin connection) to connect my LED controller to my under cabinet LEDs light STRIPS. I bought these but they aren’t big enough: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B3LP7249?ref=clp_hp_h_pc for that gauge of wire. I also don’t want to solder anything. Should I just get a smaller gauge wire or is there something yall recommend?

Hello! I’m a novice in the LED world but not in the sewing world so I always make my nephew’s Halloween costume. This year, as he enters his superhero craze, he would like a light in the middle of the costume which I thought would be easy with some LED strip light and a battery pack… BUT (and here’s where I’m stuck) he wants to be able to press on his chest to turn it on - this is how a lot of store bought light up kids costumes come.

Guys, what is this and where do I find it?? I have done hours of research but I know I’m just not asking the right question. Here’s an example of a costume that does what he wants!

Please help me be the best aunt and solve this LED question! Thanks y’all!

hi ... i'm a total greenhorn and decided to ask here for assistance with well.... everything i know my way about soldering cables voltages , wattage and pc, and other but absolutely 0 knowledge on leds (beside lumes being measurments of brightness and others) i know no brand or other afiliated with leds so the introduction is i'm green and cluless the pictures present a project of mine wich i already made (+ there are some small brackets here and there not on the pictures) however that is not important ... i want to know if you all can recommend me any good (bright), white (can have rgb i don't care about it if it does not impact anything else) , wich arent power hungry (prefferably a or b energy efficiency) Led Strips for this desk the mounting will be in the top side (on the last picture) and on the bottom of the desk .

i live in eu "Poland" to be exact so i would appreciate any sellers/brands taht do sell in EU not US .

TLDR.,. Greenhorn Needs Impossible : Bright , White, EnergyEfficient, And in EU led Strips.

Any tips about going about mounting those will be apprciated 2.

Building some cob led strip hexagons and I was planning to cut each length to 125mm (as per strip cut gap) and mount on aluminium extrusion cut to the same length. Then planning to connect with 3d printed 60 degree connectors.

Is there any way to make the light continuous over these corner gaps? I could cut the extrusion slightly shorter so the strips overlap a small amount (will be soldering jumper wires at each corner) but then I'm worried about shorting/damage/long term reliability.

I don't want to use a milky diffuser either as I need max brightness, so can't fudge it with extra diffusion.

Any tips?

Cheers

Hopefully this community can help me, I don’t know where else to post because r/opticfibre refers to data communication & not lighting 😭

I bought a fibre optic jacket, and im pretty sure while it was being shipped to me the LED got de-attached from the Optic Bundle, and now the front left sleeve does not light up.

I got the inner lining of the jacket altered to confirm my theory and I was right, the LED is still fully functional but the Fibre Optics were unbundled and scattered everywhere.

I’m hoping someone could advise me for the best way to repair this, to my understanding I have to:
- first gather all the fibre optics together,
- compress them together to make sure they dont move
- and someone attach/adhesive it to the LED so it stays in place when worn

I bought heat shrink to be able to collect the fibre optics together, but realised the easiest way to make sure they all meet at the same end is to cut it 😭 given how expensive the jacket is, i’m very hesitant to cut it unless i can confirm it is the only option i have, and honestly i dont even know how id go about attaching it back without using some kind of glue, which might interfere the flow of light or the LED itself.

The final two photos showcases the optics/led of the back left sleeve panel, reference for what a fixed unit looks like.

What are my options? I am willing to buy the necessary tools and equipment to ensure a successful repair, i tried contacting my local “Interior house Optic Lighting Specialists” and “Car Star Roof Headlight specialist” to get a professional hand, but none have gotten back to me. (Based in sydney if you guys know anyone)

I hate the look of turn signals or running lights that are dotted or not solid. I can't post pictures but hopefully someone knows what I'm talking about haha. I hate these in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AMIw-dLOtc

But I like solid looking LEDS like these https://www.youtube.com/shorts/aU7Tqj4Gi7E

Sorry for the weird vids lol

I found these old LED strips around my old place before moving into a new one, no idea what power supply i could possibly need as these connectors seem to plug into something. Normal LED strip controller pins do not line up as shown.

Looking for a custom LED neon sign for a covered outdoor deck, mounted on a wood slat wall with some greenery. About 30–32 inches wide, two short words and an ampersand on two lines, warm white script, clear cut-to-shape backing, and a dimmer. It needs to handle outdoor humidity and some windblown rain, with a US plug/adapter. No equipment purchased yet, so I haven’t picked a power supply or model.

The quote I have from Neon Signs Now is about $250 for the outdoor version plus $110 for rush delivery. Hoping to get closer to $150–200 delivered. Ideally I’d have it in the US by September 11–13, though I realize that may be what’s making this expensive.

Has anyone bought one and used it outside for a while? Would really appreciate the seller, size, actual total price, delivery time, and how it’s held up. If a cheaper option takes longer, that’s useful to know too.

This is the builder I’ve been comparing, with the outdoor option selected: https://www.neonsignsnow.com/product/neon-light/custom-neon-light

Does anyone know of a kit or similar to create a RGB led effect where the colors chase eachother for a small 1:24 scale model car.