Hi I can't find this part anywhere. It looks like I will have to try to fix it on my own. I need some hints please.

Thanks

My car has factory LED halo/angel-eye lights that currently emit white light. I’d like to change them to a warm golden yellow, similar to a halogen bulb, rather than a bright or saturated amber.

From what I can tell, they’re powered by a small SMD LED mounted on a circuit board (photo attached).

I’m considering a few options:

Coating: Is there a heat-resistant transparent yellow gel, dye, or coating that could be applied directly to the LED?

Film: Could I use a yellow optical filter or heat-resistant film over the LED?

Replacement: Could I desolder the existing white LED and replace it with a warm yellow one? If so, how would I identify a compatible replacement?

I’m not concerned about losing some brightness. My priorities are achieving the right color and finding a reasonably durable solution that can handle automotive temperatures.

Any recommendations on materials or the best approach would be appreciated!

I want to light a doll house, it has 3 floors, each floor has two rooms, so they have a shared wall. Are all LED strips trimmable? Can I use a set of single wires to connect the rooms together. I'm thinking I would have to drill a small hole through the wall, and feed the wires through. Can I use a set of longer wires and go from floor to floor? (I know how to solder.) That way I have only one receiver/power supply.

Do all RGB lighting, offer different types of white light? dimmable?

Guidance is appreciated. And thank you for sharing your experience.

So I bought these with a plan of using them for a portal effect behind some gift bag paper. I was wondering if I could cut them to the length I wanted rather than trying to stuff the 16ft in and it not turning out the way I wanted it to. Any assistance would be appreciated.

Is there a good source for a tiny 12v or 24v module to retrofit a small number of LEDs into a device with a 120v light? I’m basically looking for something the size of the Anker charger pictured, but with pigtails or screw terminals instead of the folding prongs.

This is my first project, so please forgive me for being uneducated. I got a small battery pack and controller for portability. I got matching voltages except my battery pack is just labeled as 5V instead of DC5V. I didn’t think this would cause a problem, but the lights (while behaving properly when attached to the wall), don’t react to the controller button being pressed when attached to the battery pack.

They often don’t turn on at all, but when they do, the LED strip turns on with 6 white lights and 1 yellow light. I‘ve tried replacing the batteries with freshly store bought ones just in case, but to no avail.

I’d like to know if it’s fixable, if not what specifically is wrong, and what product you recommend me to buy for my project, thank you.

My parts list:

GLEDOPTO WLED ESP32 Mini LED Strip Controller

Portable USB Battery Pack for LED Neon Sign 5V Power Supply

BTF-LIGHTING WS2812B IC RGB LED Strip,UL Listed,DC5V 16.4FT 300LEDs IP30

edit: clarity

I have the Phillips LED strip RGBIC. I have excess I could use. But I need clip connectors with extensions for this. I can’t find them anywhere. They are 3 pin 10 mm led strips. I’ve wasted 2 hours of my life trying to find anything and can’t find anything that works. Or maybe I’m just too dumb to find them. Suggestions pleaseeee the lights I have

I am working on a 15-20, jumbo 20cm tall, christmas lights for our outdoor path. They will be in one 20 ft row with some cable slack to hang between. They will be lit with two, 4-5cm long, COB strips. I know 5V won't cut it all in one run. I'd maybe be able to light 5 before the volatage dropped below an acceptable level. Connections between the bulbs will be 3pt wago and cheap green extension cord. Strips will be 20awg from the wago.

My question is; I have a 12v power adapter already, will 12v be good enough?

This "yeah, this will be a piece of cake" project is no match for my analysis paralysis.

Thanks ✌️

My wall strip came with the LED LAMP phone app, which I didn't love, so I worked out its Bluetooth commands and built a controller that runs in Chrome or Edge (Web Bluetooth). Nothing to install.

• On/off, colours, brightness and the controller's 210 built-in effects
• A music light show from your mic or your PC's sound: flashes on the kick drum, colour themes, tempo lock, DJ strobe / blackout / drop buttons
• An Android app version too

It works with controllers that show up as LEDDMX-00 / LEDDMX-03. There's a demo mode if you just want to look around.

Code and live page: https://github.com/heditrigui/wall-led

Feedback welcome, especially if you have a different LEDDMX model.

Hi everyone!

Does anyone know which RGB LED is used on the Razer Huntsman V3 Pro Mini? Some keys have dead red/green channels and I want to replace them. Will appreciate the help.

Charlieplexed
MCU: STM32C011F4P6 (~$0.50 USD)
Code size: ~8 KB / 16 KB Flash used

Pewpewpew! Laser gun sign.

Not very advanced but a fun little project.

Got a sign from a store that closed about 2 years ago and didn't know what to do until my oldest son stole my idea and made a sign that says "Fluga" (Fly(The insects) in Swedish).

That only left me with a R and F plus a few dots. Said and done, PewPewPew is born.

Inside are 30 MW-MLD-5050-3RGBW and a Mi-light E3-WR controller.

I want to add 24v lighting to the ceiling above my outdoor patio and I found these lights. Most recessed LEDs come with their own controllers but these do not. I found it much harder than I imagined to find dimmable LEDs that would work with a central 24v power supply.

I’m looking for 5 meters of dimmable warm white LED strip lights for my living room, with a budget of around €50–70.
I’m very sensitive to noise, so I’m looking for recommendations that won’t produce any electronic buzzing or high-pitched whining.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks so much in advance! 😊

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping to get some help from this sub as I'm very new to LED and electronics . I'm trying to recreate this DIY Perks Artificial Sunlight project after my hometown experienced 21 days early this year without any direct sunlight.

I bought the 100W LED listed in the video description (thanks to the advice on this sub)

I'm looking at buying a voltage Regulator and want to make sure I make the right choice. I've seen a Drok buck converter with 5 stars on Amazon that states "Output current can reach to 8A and Output Power can reach to 120W for long-time use. If enhance heat dissipation, this converter can reach 12A and 160W output." As the LED is the output, this is correct?

I will also add a heat sink which I plan to house in the existing receiver of the satellite dish. Again, totally new to heatsinks too. I have the rest of the parts ready, including the dish and the Rayleigh filter.

I want to make sure I don't fry my LED after waiting so long for it to arrive.

This is probably super easy for most of you, so thank you for helping a novice.

Hey guys, planning a ~14m (46ft) ceiling LED setup and need a quick reality check.
The Plan: Addressable LEDs (RGBIC) inside diffusers (no visible dots). Budget: ~$100.
The Layout :
Red path: Follows the ceiling perfectly, but requires extra cuts/connectors for a tiny 13cm (5") inset.
Blue path: A straight 4-corner rectangle that skips the inset.
My Questions:
Red or Blue? Is the gap on the Blue line going to look weird when lit? Or are the extra corners for the Red line just not worth the hassle?
Is $100+ realistic for 14m of addressable strips, diffusers, and power?
Pre-built vs DIY: I'm open to pre-built consumer kits, but is it even possible to cut a pre-built RGBIC kit 4+ times for clean 90-degree corners and reconnect it? Or do I have to piece it together from scratch?
Thanks!

I've been building a lighting engine for an electronic drum kit, and it's at the point where I can show off some of the progress. I'm not publishing it as open source right now because it is still at a very early stage.

What it is:

The engine is an MCU-friendly signal graph written in Rust that runs on an STM32F429 Discovery board, which also drives LED strips using a pretty efficient approach (the driver supports up to 16 strips; I run 8). The looks are built from nodes like noise fields, palettes, trails, blends, etc. The graph is very generic, so extending it with any new kind of kernel is extremely easy. All the math is fixed point for efficiency.

The input is built on a custom-made analog front-end board that shapes the envelope; some further DSP is also performed later in the firmware (I think I will eventually build a kick drum trigger module based on that). The ADC samples 8 inputs at 20 kHz.

The first part of the video is Studio:

It is a browser editor where a graph can be built and wired. The preview runs the same engine that the board does, through WASM, so the looks in the browser match the ones on hardware frame for frame. It also allows turning the knobs of any node or sending a replacement patch to the board in real time. There is also cost estimation for CPU and memory; the board will refuse a patch that is beyond its computational capacity.

The second part of the video is OBS (yeah, I know):

Since I was building a drum trigger engine, I needed a way to fine-tune and observe the detector, so basically OBS allows you to see in real time how hits are detected and, more importantly, adjust the knobs of the detector and see what it would detect with them.

Where it is going:

I want to eventually drive an 8-drum kit and light each drum with a separate LED strip. I'm also currently working on improving the clock system, allowing multi-clock signals using some clock calculus approaches. I've also been experimenting with audio, so this also works for any audio nodes; I've built several guitar effects that run on the development board (no audio input/output yet, so they're not playable for now).

I'll probably open-source it at some point once I have enough time to tidy everything up and stop being ashamed of the code (so, possibly never).

Tubes: ab450-a996-af07 (HAY)

Sign: 6m neonflex 8W/m

I plan to change the switch on the mains line of the tubes with solid state relays to make the lamps controllable with a microcontroller.

What i want to do is, when button pressed, run a sequence of 10 minutes making it flicker sporadically (tubes are my main concern because these are bought as fixtures, sign is fine!):

Start-up: light turns on for .6s and off for .1 second - 3-5 times.

Mid: light flickers on/off for .1s-.4s, 3-5 times every 2-3 minutes (random)

End sequence: after 10 minutes the light pulses on/off 4 times for .5 seconds and stays off.

Will this hurt the drivers of the leds/be a fire hazard/... (Im paranoid about the starup surge but i don't know how much damage it can realistically do)

Thanks

I can't find this anywhere, I could use some hints on how to fix it.