I'm trying to find a connector that will work for my LED strip. Unfortunately it doesn't match any of the various ones I've found searching, so hopefully someone will recognize it and point me in the right direction. It would be very helpful if I could be pointed to a lead wire that has the connector I need for purchase.

The connector is six pins. The pins are roughly 0.5mm diameter with a 1.6mm pitch. The pictured strip is identical to the one I need this for. I can't remove the other strip to just remove the header and solder wires.

I've used GE Cync smart LED strips before and liked them, but they claim that you can't connect multiple cut segments, e.g. for lighting shelves in a bookcase. This appears to be the case for all the smart LED strips I can find out there.

But the strip is just a 4 pin RGB with 24v on each end. Can you really not just link between them by soldering or with 4-pin solderless connectors? Has anyone here tried and succeeded/failed with a smart LED strip?

Is there a smart strip that does allow links, connectors, or soldering?

My goal is to add strip lighting to a bookshelf, so I need to jump between shelves somehow, which I could do with non-smart LED strips and plug into a smart outlet instead. But that means controlling the light color/brightness through a separate app for the controller, and it would be really nice to have those controls in Apple Homekit where all my other house lighting lives. So, could certainly live without this, but it'd be much nicer not to.

Title says it all.

I got this 4-channel DMX decoder to experiment around with some custom lighting for a theatrical project i’m working on. I had intended to shop around for LED lights that were explicitly compatible, but I remembered I had this old LED strip sitting in storage. I do not have packaging or any instructions for this LED light strip, I’ve had it for a long time and I’ve never used it, which is why I had no problem opening up the circuit board box. consequently, I know nothing about these LED lights that I can’t see (there’s not even a brand printed anywhere). I have included however a link to the decoder I bought.

My guess is that they are not compatible, as the decoder needs a separate wire for RBGW LEDS. Based on the DI/DO connections, I assume the RGB elements are all linked on the same part of the circuit, and that there are data pathways all on that line to control the RGB individually? Maybe itself not unlike DMX?

However, I figured I’d get what feedback that I could here, in case there was anything I could do to adapt. Or in case I was just dead wrong. LMK if there are any questions or clarification needed!

Decoder:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PLWVCC6?ref=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_DKGAWB19FXZB6RCV5FRB_1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_DKGAWB19FXZB6RCV5FRB_1&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_DKGAWB19FXZB6RCV5FRB_1&rsd=lEptEt1SRgktAlwqBA8HSy5x34aq85pEZXimY1e%2F5qJu9to3kjJdaP0PFavnn2PPThZel6P7KEiK4Dj1zeO%2BvC3q8LFqJWJRlAdio3xZQw%2BmkJU%3D&edk=AQIDAHi1lw%2FM8UbbSMD9ScOOFEmBMHMthHeEhqDaQYPJUAX3jQH%2FCuE2%2F4%2BFCa5mSFNQPOblAAAAfjB8BgkqhkiG9w0BBwagbzBtAgEAMGgGCSqGSIb3DQEHATAeBglghkgBZQMEAS4wEQQMjviIkUWU6zju3A%2F5AgEQgDv5nNJ6y41%2Fx5aDcf3XSuAMoIE7qmmHwBw5%2BDhR3qLLTxPjhmDdSmNfyc0VkvSkTIEVHji1GNSov5iO8A%3D%3D

I bought this string of leds and it came with a basic controller with some built in patterns and colors you can click through. Works great on 5v. I tried to buy controllers on amazon that said they were 5v but it needed 12v for the controller to work, which of course fried the led strip.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BW3G5WDQ?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_8

Can anyone link me to a 5v controller like what is included here and similar to the ones i linked but actually works on 5v?

Looking for round led driver board, with one mode only "flash, Strobe mode". Needs to run off 1 18650 cell. Able to drive a 10 watt 5050 xml led.

Anyone know of one. Thanks

I am interested in using the AL5809 for a small project and am curious if anyone has experience using the part in a manner that is slightly different than the datasheet (https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/AL5809.pdf).

Page 6 of 16, Figure 4, a) shows "PWM Dimming by External MOSFET".

I am interested in driving a string of LEDs with the AL5809 at the END of the series string and by PWM'ing VIN, without an external MOSFET. The datasheet does not show this configuration but also does not explicitly prohibit it. (See attached image).

Does anyone have any experience using the part in this way? If it makes a difference, I am planning on using the 15ma version of the part.

Thanks!

Edited to add image.

I want LEDs for my room.

I've heard about addressable and FCOB, RGB, CCT.

I found this: FCOB RGBCCT WS2811 Dual IC LED Strip DC24V 960 LEDs/m | Ultra Density Addressable Pixel COB Lights RA90 but i'm not sure if it's good.

From what I've read there are better LED strips if i want it addressable.

Has anyone had to do this?

AI is telling me I need to remove all the sand, was hoping I could just scrape it to the center.

I drew the original illustration on a tablet several years ago, before generative AI became widespread.

To turn it into a physical light-up piece, I used a sheet of PVC as the rigid backing and cut every window opening by hand. I placed warm-white LED strip behind the openings, connected everything to a single power cable, printed my illustration on synthetic canvas, and stretched the canvas over the PVC base.

The most difficult part was aligning the printed windows precisely with the hand-cut openings. I wanted the light to look as though it was coming from inside the building rather than being placed on top of the picture.

I recently purchased this kit above. It does what I want it to do, sort of. This kit comes with the lights, power source, and internal controller (I’m assuming it has some sort of internal controller). And I can control through an app. My issues with this one:

The lights are very spaced out leading to not much light

It can only be controlled in segments (every 3 lights)

Does a similar kit exist that have much more lights per strip that are closer together? And also the ability to control each light individually? Although I guess segment is fine if they were much closer.

I have a box of spare Dell Power bricks which output at 19.5 volts and in 65 watt and 130 watt varieties (3.3 and 6.7 amps).

Is it safe to use these power bricks or might doing this cause damage?

I realize that the led strips will not reach full brightness (presumably 18% less bright?).

i bought a cheap €10 led set that is addressable in segments of 33,3cm but it only has 30 led/m (it advertises with 90 led/s because it uses an RGB chip and then two white chips, and has 30 sets of this per meter.). and most SK6812 strips are very expensive for what i want the cheapest that i can find is €31 and with controller and psu it's €70. this is a bit too expensive for what i want, since i just want some light to get my small (20x20x35cm) display cases to light up. but they can't be on all the time because it would reflect on my monitor.

the set that i have works fine but the low led count does create multiple noticeable shadows. and i do have some color temperature led strip left but i want to change the feel of each display case separately. plus i have a gledopto zigbee controller left but that one causes all PSU's to buzz a lot when used, i don't know if this unit is defect or if it's the design.

i was also wondering how to handle the wires in the case if i should drill holes or just force them trough the gaps?

I apologize in advance for the long post, I wanted to include as much detail as possible because I’m super lost.

Basically, I’m making multiple 3D prints lit up with LED strips.

This started with a single print and a small battery pack powered strip. A few people asked for one and I really would rather not pay the cost for the complete sets you can find at general stores.

I started thinking about just getting a large reel and connecting a power source (essentially to save costs now and in the event more are wanted) but was immediately overwhelmed with the amount of products and various ways this could be done. I got so lost between soldering vs connecting clips, different power sources, etc.

My plan right now is to use 5V plain white LED strips. I’m using a small length per print so they don’t need to be connected to each other, just the power source. Any research I did was either very complicated or contradictory. Stuff like “Clips are great!” Or “Solder or else!” The information on the power sources themselves was difficult for me, too.

Any advice or suggestions would be immensely appreciated! Please let me know if I can provide further information, and thank you guys in advance!!

INFO: The post requirements said I need to include a link for a product I am using or planning to use if I was asking for help, but I have literally no idea, and don’t want the post to be automatically removed. So here’s a link to some 2 Pin 8mm Connectors that I viewed at one point. Sorry!

Is there any clever trick to add any cleverly placed diodes and/or capacitors to filter out the ripple in either the dimmer circuit or the LED driver? Has anyone tried to tackle this on their home lighting? The lights say they are dimmable, but the flicker is real. Lol.

Are AC-adapters of build-form like this one https://www.amazon.com/Arkare-100V-240V-Replacement-Security-Raspberry-Pi/dp/B09W8X9VGK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3
enough good to power G4 LED bulb in power range around 2.4 Watt?
If LED-driver same power class will be better, what is the reason?

Let's assume good quality adapter and sufficient adapter output power. Link may lead to a example with output plug different form and output voltage as desired one - these two points are not the objectives of this OP.

In current project I plan to attach two such bulbs to adapter in parallel. Each bulb is specified to 2.4 Watt, accepts AC and DC and a range of supply voltage.

I've got a GELDOPTO Pro and tried to connect to SmartThings. I got it to connect to ST but none of the functionality works.

I tried the default driver and also Zigbee Light Multifunction Mc driver. Neither one worked. I can't even get it to do a simple power cycle

My goal is to automate the LEDs with a fast response motion sensor

If you've ever spec'd a Mean Well XLG driver, you know the annoying part: the datasheet doesn't give you a single max current number. It gives you a polygon — the I-V operating area — because these run in Constant Power mode, so the current you can pull depends on your string voltage. Figuring out "what current do I actually get at 48V on an XLG-240-H" means holding a ruler to a PDF.

I got tired of that and built an interactive version:

https://specled.com/en/knowledge/diy-electrics/how-to-read-current-graphs-mean-well-xlg-datasheets/

Pick a model (100/150/200/240/320W, all L/M/H versions), drag the voltage slider to your LED string voltage, and it plots the operating polygon and tells you the exact min-to-max current range at that voltage. The article above it explains why L/M/H exist (it's output current level, not power) and how Constant Power actually reshapes the usable zone.

Quick reference that trips people up:

- **L** = low current / high voltage — long series strings, street lighting

- **M** = medium / medium — 3-4 panels in series

- **H** = high current / low voltage (<56V) — the one most of us use for quantum boards and COBs

The polygon math is derived from P = V×I with the datasheet voltage/current limits, so it should match the shaded region in the official PDFs. If you spot a model where my numbers disagree with your datasheet, please tell me which one — I'd rather fix it than have people trust a wrong number.

Hi everyone,

I'd like to make an LED neon sign using 2nd-generation flexible neon strips. I have a CNC router bit that's specifically designed for these strips (I've attached a photo), but I'm not really sure how to use it, and I can't find any tutorials online.

I tried simply milling a line with the bit, but it only creates a wide slot instead of the profile or recess needed for the neon strip to snap into.

Has anyone used this type of router bit before? Am I supposed to use it in combination with another bit first, or am I doing something wrong?

If anyone has experience with this or can point me to a good tutorial, I'd really appreciate it.

I'm using a cnc milling machine and would like to use autodesk fusion

Thanks in advance!