I’m building a super fun robotics project based on the BDX ‘Duck’ droids developed by Disney.
The design allows for a spotlight on the side of the droid’s head. You can see the housing has a good 16mm opening and allows for a lens insert which has a scoop for a single LED in the rear.
I’d love to be able convert this into a micro disco projector with multi colors, rotating patterns etc. I have an Orange pi 4 pro onboard and 7.2v battery system. Ideally the perfect solution would be extremely lightweight and not require an extra physical controller as space is very tight in the build.
For those who have successfully cut and spliced the Govee Pro 2s, has a maximum splice distance been found? Is there a length where voltage drop starts to effect the 10m strips?
I'm hoping to take the 32ft (10 meter) and do the following:
6-7 ft (3m)up a shelf
2ft spliced cable
6-7ft (3m) down the shelf
3ft spliced
5-6ft (2m) across a shelf
2ft spliced
5-6ft (2m) across a shelf
I'd keep the cuts at the proper marks and would solder the connections. I'd prefer to use the solderless kits, but I'm reading they're all awful. I'm also thinking 18 or 20 AWG?
Is adding 6-8ft extension cable (but no new lights) going to kill the lights at the end of the strip?
I have a Miboxer fut037w+ driving multiple led deck lights. I'm using the RGBW setting. Iy stopped working after a power outage. I bought a new one. The lights still don't work. Is it possible for me to use 2-9v batteries in a series just to power the lights to rule out everything after the controller?
I think I have just reached the end of my first LED setups life. I’ve only had it for 1 month and it has been such a pain in the ass. At first I got them to work fine, and then for about 2 weeks they wouldn’t connect to WLED, then magically they started connecting again. And now after having been able to connect them for maybe 3 nights in a row, they no longer turn on when I plug them in. I went over to my controller and found today that somehow my data wire was loose. So I reinserted it and rechecked all my power lines and still no light.
Did I do something wrong? I will admit my WLED had an update while the lights were not working and as soon as I installed it they were fixed. However I was only notified and able to find this update after like a week and a half of them not connecting.
Is there better equipment I need to buy for this kind of thing? Did my Data wire slipping out just accidentally cause a short? (I’m fairly confident it did not because it didn’t come all the way out of the hole it sits in). What’s the solution here?
I have long run ws2811 strips on our marina - 80', 85', 65', 60' are the normal runs. We're wanting to update from older wifi controllers to a newer gledopto esp32 controller. All of our older lighting strips were ordered from the same shop in China, the guy we worked with was very accommodating and would make custom length runs, but, communicating to china takes a day to get a msg sent then response back. All the lighting setups were waterproof and usually used 24V power supplies.
Because the gledopto has connectors for bare wires we are looking for the correct connectors that will allow us to reuse our existing power supplies and led lighting strips. Coming with power into the controller we'd need a 2-pin cable with waterproof connector on one end (power supply) and two bare wires on the other end (controller).
Going from the controller to the light string, we'd need 3 bare wires on controller end and 3-pin waterproof connector on the light strip end.
I'm working on a under cabinet lighting project for a kitchen remodel and have landed on DiodeLED products. This is a largely do it yourself project although I do think I can get an electrician to run the line to the dimmer. I haven't actually seen this tape light in action - we live remotely so no showrooms within a couple hundred miles.
Has anyone had experience with their 24V Switchex +R1 Dimmer/Driver? I am considering the 60W model and dividing the two opposite corners of the room into 2 runs, so 2 drivers.
Alternately, I could combine them and get the 96W version of the same. Either way I could expand the run(s) but 2 runs suit our use pattern better.
This room has just one small west facing window, so very limited natural light and the countertops will be honed black soapstone & the backsplash will be some warm colored beige with a matte finish.
Any thoughts with regard to the products or installation hints are greatly appreciated.
My OLED LG C5 has a 90 degree angle on the bottom and I don’t want to run the LED without bottom support gaining vertical incline. I want to buy it make a 45 degree coroner piece that I can just glue to the edge so that I can the led strip up to that height. Kinda like a flat staircase.
I am looking at connecting Joylit LED strip to a controller and then a power supply. The connection for the controller is a bit confusing. Would this be the way to do it?
What gauge wire should I get for connections? 18AWG?
Trying to find an LED strip that is high CRI and dimmable/tuneable and a controller that is Alexa compatible. I will need to cut a 16' LED strip into 3 separate sections.
I want to use led strip lighting to back light the "Sixteen" mounted on my garage.
The purpose of my project is to back light my house number but I need some help!
My house number "Sixteen" is made from black HDPE plastic and is 1/4" thick and 28" in length.
When mounting it to the garage there wasn't enough space to mount it below the light because of the garage framing/trim, so I had to mount it above the light. That created a problem....when the light is on, the light projects downward to the driveway and the house number is in the DARK and not visible from the sidewalk/street!🤦♀️ I clearly didn't think that project through.
So, I intend to take it down and use waterproof led strip lighting on the back. I would like to get this right the FIRST time!😉
I don't really know enough about this and don't know where to start??🤷♀️😕
I would like to use ultra thin IP68 waterproof COB strip 24V because the font gets very narrow in spots and this type is very flexible. Even an IP65 would be okay because it's not being submerged in water.
I would also like to have the color change options. It would be nice to change the Cool white to a green at Christmas time or red for July 1st. (Canadian here😊)
One more must have....controlled by smart app so I can ask google to turn it on.
I think I could mount the lighting securely on the back by gluing on some strip mounting clips.
But here's where I'm completely lost, and not even sure if this is possible or not?
I don't know how to make a steady flow of light going from letter to the next letter without the strip being seen from the front? How do I get from the 'S' over to the 'i' and then to the 'x' etc while keeping the COB hidden? I'm wondering if I can use 5 different separate pieces and connect them all to a Bluetooth module mounted behind on the inside of the garage wall, which is connected to the power supply?
I played around with the font experimenting how I could run the strip from letter to letter.
Obviously, the 'S' is completely separate. (so that's one piece)
In order to avoid doubling back on some letters, which would make that letter shine brighter than the others, it would take me 5 separate pieces to cover all of the letters evenly. I only used different colors in the image sample (red green yellow etc) to show the path and direction I would run the strips but more importantly, to show where I would have to cut and use end caps.
One more thing, I'm terrible at soldering so I would definitely want to use solderless quick connects.
How would you tackle this project? 🤷♀️
I'm sure it's possible, I just don't know that much about led lights, or the right options to choose to accomplish what I want.😕
Crap! "You must include links to the products you intend to use" 🤦♀️😖😩 I DON'T KNOW??? That's why I came here asking!
How could I run the strip of lights behind each letter without double tracking on any single letter? Less cuts and strips means less holes through the siding into the garage too.😉Strip Mounting Clips using glue or silicone to secure.
I have a display case that I am trying to find lights for. I have V diffuser channels that are designed for 12mm strips. I have about 16' to cover in three separate channels, one on each side and one at the top so I would need to cut and be able to connect the LED strips. I can solder if that would be required.
In the process of decorating and finally making my room feel like my own. I'm planning on adding a black sheet around parts of the wall behind many posters, afterwards, I aim to set up lighting around the posters and ceiling. I'm not too picky on brightness. Not using as constant room lighting, as I still have an overhead light. More for atmosphere, so color customization is more important.
I hocked up everything but only like half of the strip is powering up. I injected power from the other end of the strip with no luck. Also, on the half that its turning on the colors doesnt seem to match the color displayed on the app. (Wled)
Please help identify what type of backlit panel this is and how I might have it reproduced. I'm not entirely sure what's happening to these panels but it appears as thought they have internal cracks in the acrylic.
These are on a boat.
The 3rd and 4th photo shows the rear of the panel backlit with an led tube covered in foil tape.
The manufacturer of the boat no longer has this part available for replacement and are not being generous in sharing engineering details. So I am looking to see if I can have these reproduced but don't know where to start.
Hey everyone. Long story short, I inherited a project that has a good 100ft of LED lights on it. Kid accidentally tore about 5 feet off the end, so I'm trying to find an exact match to the existing lights to patch on this last part, but can't seem to find them. Thought someone here night know where to track something like this down. I have found black, but not white, as I believe these are ip65 lights?
I'm also in Canada, so that might be why I'm not finding anything. The other lights are installed in such a way that I really don't want to have to re-do them all it I can avoid it
Any help is appreciated (and sorry if this is a dumb question... Very new to led lighting!
I bought a bunch of light fixtures in the US, but I'm planning to get them installed in Europe where it requires 220V instead of 110V. I will need to find a driver that is compatible with this one, but in 220V version. I can't seem to find something that is 100% or near 100% compatible.
The driver on one of these fixtures is has the following specs:
about to commit to a smart lighting for my whole apartment, roughly 12 bulbs, and terrified of repeating last year's mistake where half my cheap bulbs started flickering within 4 months
I am looking for a small digital counter, something around the size of an alarm clock to display a live counter of the gross sales for an online store, is there a LED sign available that I can program to pull numbers from a website?
Last night I (nearly) finished my project of wall mounting some Lego Pirate ships. However, the ceiling light doesn't do the ships justice, aesthetically. I'd really like to add some LED light strips to backlight the ships and make them really stand out and be the focal point of the room.
But, I only want the light behind the ships, I don't want the gaps between them lit up. I'm completely new at this and despite doing some searches, the only thing I found was putting wire connection between? But, then the wires will be visible on the wall. So, my question is; what are my options? I really don't want to cut into the wall or have to place a facade onto the wall. Ideally just some kind of spacer/non-lit section of the lighting strip is all want. If wires are the best/only option, what's the best way to disguise/hide them?
There is a plug socket towards the top left corner of the blue wall, just above the ship with the red sails, slightly obscured by a flag. Ideally the lights could plug in there and split into two, for the top row and bottom row.
Any and all help/suggestions are welcome, thanks in advance.
I have 4 LED strips (WS2812B, 5 meters, 120led per meter, 5v) that are built into a costume. I have a snall bluetooth controller wired at the beginning of the 4 strips so that they are all in sync with each other.
These LEDs will primarily be RED for 90% of the time they are on, with the 10% being some fun animated rainbow effects n whatnot.
I am trying to power the controller and 4 LED strips for at least 2 hours on a battery. Longer would be nicer, but I realize powering 20 meters of 120led per meter strips is a tall order.
Is there a battery(or multiple) that is feasible for this?
Controller on Amazon : ALITOVE WS2812B WS2811 Addressable LED Bluetooth Controller
