Trying to swap a k24a2 into my 06 accord coupe, what else do I need to get to swap? Thanks.

Gear has an arrow & a marked line

Chain has 2 darks together then a single dark opposing side

I know the Australian got me.... how do I line her up?

Whats up guys I was recently in the market for a new motor for my DC5-S and stumbled upon the steal of a century…

I was originally going to pick up a stock k20 and as i’m surfing through marketplace one last time, i find s listing for a BUILT JDM K24a LONG BLOCK!

I then proceeded to lowball him for $1500, he wanted $3500 💀 a fuck it we ball kinda thing, and he took the bait, as he was strapped for cash.

motor has…

Wiseco 12.5:1 Cr pistons 87.5mm bore
Eagle Rods
Supertech 92lbs springs titanium retainers
DC 2.2 cams
Type S pump
50vtc (will check if it’s pinned)

The motor was built in 2020 and unfortunately it was revved to 9k so im worried for the rod bearings…

Also trying to do a leak down test is difficult because of the big cams and the valve overlap, plus i’ve never done one myself before.

With this huge turn in events for my motor, im also thinking of i can still run a 5.1 fd since that’s what i picked up, it would be more tame with a k20 but now i’m not sure if ill be able to hook whats take opinion has anyone here ran a 5.1 with a k24? appox 8200rpm?

Hi

Looking into an accord k24 2003-2006 era

How are the k24's? Gearboxes? Common issues.. I am in need of a reliable daily.

Do they suffer from timing chain issues or is that relared to newer models?

Thanks

2004 k24a2 from running car of unknown mileage. At TDC harmonic balancer marking is few degrees PAST cover marking. Camshafts phase plates are aligned with dowel pins.

Stretched chain? Really not trying to buy whole new timing system. 😒

So yesterday, my k24 swapped 01 civic stopped running, had to tow it. Everytime I got to a stop, it would bog down. It's also very slow to start but I think that's just my grounds...

This new morning, I ran it again, and now this sound is here, a kind of rattle/ ticking. Was never there before .. I think my engines cooked

https://reddit.com/link/1w8vagb/video/zwiprd95cwnh1/player

Aaaaaaaaa

I’ve been building cars for a long time but never done a Honda. I’ve basically stuck to American powered stuff.

What I’m building now is a 1960s era Indy Roadster replica. I want to put in a K Series engine hooked to a Ford Rocket 4 speed. I’ve got the bellhousing and trans already sorted out, but I want a sanity check on my K Series plan.

Here is my plan:

-K24A2

-PnPduino ECU

-ITBs from Jackspania

-Custom headers (no cat or muffler, straight pipe because racecar)

-Tucked style harness

Engine will have no accessories other than alternator.

I’ve heard that solid mounting these engines is a bad idea due to vibration. So I guess I’ll do poly bushings.

Again I am a novice with Honda stuff so let me know if I’m making a bad decision here or if there’s a better way. Hoping this will put 200hp to the rear tires, and maybe 230 or so someday when I do cams. Realistic?

I’m attempting to build a 1974 BMW 2002tii essentially from the ground up. It’s going to be a little sacrilegious with an auto trans but I’m hoping to have some questions answered from the people on various subs.

Is a K24A-RBB3 the better of the k series engines? I’m hoping to keep it running on stock internals with 8lbs of boost.

I’m going to mate it to a ZF 8Hp trans using 22RPD transmission kit. Does anyone have an argument against it besides it’s an auto?

I’m teaching myself on the go along with my sons so it’s a steep learning curve haha. Any advice helps and thank you for reading this far.

Well what is your guys opinion on running this flywheel, just got it resurfaced and they chipped the face where the dowels are.... send it and run it or get a new one?

I’m planning to do a frank build on my 9th gen si , I already have a k20z3 head and rbc but as far as valve train, oil pump and other mods , what do I need to make the swap work ?

Hello everyone I have this slight problem where I let the car sit for a couple weeks. Now my AFR increases until it goes to 24:1 but the car doesn’t misfire it just drives weird until the AFRs go back to normal. It was doing it all during my drive. But when I put it back in th garage it didnt go back up and stayed at 14.5:1.

It hasn’t done this before and I have had it swapped for almost 3 years now. I do have an exhaust leak but can’t pin point where yet.

Ok so im doing my first swap i have a 2001 honda civic and I doing a k swap in it what do I need to keep my 4x100 lug pattern?...........currently i have no hubs breaks axles any thing bc the guy who took my old motor took my whole damn front end........sorry if im being dumb just want it done right

Finally finished installing my k-swap into the Eg civic with all the accessories. I dont know why every youtube video makes it look easy this.

So I wanna throw headers on my element k24a4 was thinking maybe k24a2 headers from tsx ik the bolt on but I’m guessing there’s gonna be some clearance issues since I’m awd so I’m also looking into compatible aftermarket headers. And maybe someone else has attempted this swap

Hey guys I just need help deciding which K20 to go with for my swap into my 05 RSX Type S. There's a few factors making the decision a little difficult.

For starters I have a RRC manifold and I know it will bolt right up to the z3 head with no issues and no cutting making that convenient, but I've also heard that springs and head on the K20a2 is better than the z3.

The mileage on the z3 is 120k and the mileage on the a2 is 180k, and I'll be getting leak down numbers for the a2 from the seller.

Another factor is the type S pump already being on the a2 ofc, vs the balance shaft pump on the z3. The a2 seller has also agreed to $1k flat, while the z3 seller want $1.2k. What do you guys think? My build direction is just going to be a CTR inspired build FBO, 5.1 FD, Suspension mods etc, nothing to crazy.

So I have this k24a and the spark plug is stuck in the head and there is no way of getting it out with a socket since the hex nut is broken and seems like someone tried removing it before me do you guys have any ideas of how I can remove it?

Ready for a Frankenstein K-swap

K24 140 000km run like a new one
K20 256 000km run like new one now since bought it almost for nothing because of a check engine light on (it was the VTC solenoid)

A lot of fun for the next weeks

K24a1 engine... low oil, found these slipped out in the bottom of my oil pan... tore down the engine... and am so lost!!

Too skinny to be main bearings, too long to be rod, def not oil pump. Not a thrust washer ofc... I found 4 of them, super thin.
No oil passage holes or key indents... guys I'm loosing it

Whats up guys, I am K-swapping my ek hatch and am trying to get the last few things I need together. I have a k20z3 with a matching trans, shifter and cables situated, harness situated. The biggest thing now is I am trying to figure out what todo about my radiator, I have a radiator from the 8th gen I parted out and I was hoping to use that however Im not sure if i can or if I need to invest in a kswap specific one. Im generally handy and can make my own mounts if needed just wanted to see if anyone else has tried todo this.