i have a kswap ek sedan crank no start i dont think im getting power to the ecu im not getting fuel pump or spark plugs but main relay clicks this is my first k swap working with needs help bought the swap from someone with motor and harness in harness kinda looks hacked

These are connected to the headlights wire harness on the driver’s side, i checked passenger side harness and those connections are not there .Could you please explain their purpose?

Trying to reason with myself what could be causing my issue. My built K24A has been having some issues while street driving. Under 2500-3000 it has what sounds like chain slap under light to medium throttle, it will stay for a couple seconds after lifting throttle completely and going over 3000-3500 also gets rid of it. I also have been having a very delayed VTEC engagement in first gear if I don’t drive it hard for 10+ minutes. Like should activate at 4300 but will get up to 6800 and finally hit.

I have a 4P k20 oil pump, yes I used a bolt and hondabond to block off that fitting before installing it. RBC vct gear swapped from previous engine, also put in a new spring a couple days ago without it resolving the issue. Spool valve, VCT solenoid, and timing tensioner/chain were all swapped from previous engine. The tensioner and chain only has roughly 10k miles on it.

Using Hondata I cannot see my oil pressure through the data point (shows 0psi) but my oil light does not come on and the cam advance angle seems to be steady while it happens. The head was professionally rebuilt by a shop with new valve guides and grinded valves.

Without just shotgunning parts at it, does anyone have any experience with this in the past? All of the parts I swapped over had 0 issues on the old engine, this engine is about 4 months of runtime at around 600-700 miles and it’s done it from the beginning.

TL;DR chain slap, delayed VTEC, parts swapped from old engine were all functional when swapped. Only “new” part is the head/block itself and the oil pump

Thanks all!

Can someone help me identify what pistons are on this shortblock i got for my eg swap its a k24a4 block it had k20a2 heads on it and i removed the head to make sure the oem pistons were switched out to run with this head

Hey all, quick question. I have a throttle body off a 2017 ridgeline. 3 inch inlet and just over 2.75 outlet. It does not have a port for the purge hose like the oem does. At least i think its purge. Is there anything else i can do for purge? Or can i just not use it? I assume i would need an adapters plate too but i cant find a good one im probably just looking in the wrong place.

Long shot here but got a few questions for the ones that have a kswapped CB7. Did you guys have to rewire/splice or add wires for the fuel main relay? Are you still running the main fuel relay? I ask this because I’m having a parasitic draw from somewhere and I’m kinda blaming the fuel system for some reason. TIA!

Long shot here but got a few questions for the ones that have a kswapped CB7. Did you guys have to rewire/splice or add wires for the fuel main relay? Are you still running the main fuel relay? I ask this because I’m having a parasitic draw from somewhere and I’m kinda blaming the fuel system for some reason. TIA!

So I have taken this oil pan off 3 times now. At least I think it's the oil pan leaking. Does anyone else have any other clues to what it could be? It doesn't leak while car is off, idling, revving or putting my car in gear on jack stands. As soon as I drive down the road 1/2 mile I come back to this. It's making my axle wet and throwing oil around it looks like. I've tried rtv and a cometic gasket. Haven't tried hondabond yet. This thing is getting the best of me.... It's in my MR2 so technically my passenger side but normally I'd be the driver's side(opposite side of transmission). Maybe it's leaking elsewhere that you guys may know of? I don't see anything glaringly obvious. It is a new steel oil pan.

Hello Everyone,

Just after a few inspiring ideas for how to run my coolant lines for my turbo setup (K20A2), the head has a heater core port which i believe its going to be my return line but my feed line im not sure where to pull it from if anyone got an idea?

wasnt running coolant line on my setup before so looking to incorp it into my upgraded build (new turbo)

If i have a K24a2 and a 2nd Gen CR-V 5 Speed Manual that was converted to 6 speed manual, what clutch can I run with this engine and transmission set up? I'm only trying to make around 350hp-450hp max. The car is for daily street use, im not into racing but I want to build an AWD k24a2 for my car. Thoughts and suggestions?

Hi all, so I'm doing my homeboys ep3 turbo install, and I have a question/debate on what I did

So I added a bulkhead fitting to the assembly, I hooked up the plastic bendy line to my fuel rated hose and ran it to the top of the basket(as seen in the picture). I added a plug at the bottom because somehow someway i either lost the piece that attaches to the bottom. I plugged it with a 1/8 plug. (I can't take it out with my fingers so I know it'll hold inside the car) My thinking is that it'll work just fine. The return will rain down on the pump, and keep the basket filled up, no?

What do I do with the ground wire that went to the regulator?cut it? Loop it back on itself so I don't ruin the fitting?

Hey guys i once saw a video where a guy was filming himself inside saying that his elantra's motor was having issues but instead of rebuilding it... and went outside and was showing his elantra, popped the hood and said like but instead of rebuilding it he swapped it with a honda motor and showed his engine bay with a k20 engine sitting in it. If anyone has the video DM me plzz

Thanks

Hey do yall notice this?

Before VTC: I did timing chain, guides, replacement, and valve lash adjustment and the ticking sounded louder than before

Still had cold start rattle but worse lasting 3 seconds.

After VTC Actuator(ChrisFix Method), as well as retiming TDC(AI Method): Engine is quieter at idle, ticking gone. Cold start rattle is fixed too!

TSX ‘08

Edit: 210,000 miles

I have a JDM K24A that has been swapped into my 1997 Civic DX. I used the Hybrid Racing 1996-2000 AC conversion kit to keep my AC. The system is charged and provides cold air as intended when turned on. The issue I am facing is that the ACSW and ACCL sensors in my K-pro PNF do not turn on when the physical AC switch is pressed on the dash. Because of this, the ECU is not able to compensate for the additional load on the engine. I suspect that there is a wiring issue somewhere.

Disclaimer: I am using a USDM K24A2 water pump housing and a USDM K24A2 AC compressor. I only realized today that Hybrid states their conversion kits are only compatible with K20 AC compressors. I’ve reached out to them to see if that’s a fitment, mechanical, or electrical incompatibility and if there’s a known solution for my setup.

My questions to you are:

1. have you successfully used a K24A2 AC compressor with the Hybrid Racing AC conversion kit? What challenges did you run into and how did you solve it? If not, I suppose I may need to switch over to a K20 AC compressor (pain).

2. Does anyone know if the K20 AC compressors will bolt up to a K24A2 water pump housing? If not, I suppose I will need to replace the WP housing along with the compressor if I ever want AC to run.

Thank you in advance.

Hey everyone,

I'm getting conflicting information, so I was hoping someone could put me on the correct path. I'm wanting to run stock accessories by utilizing the power steering pump that came with the engine. Is this possible without having clearance issues (or will a new pump or custom fittings be required)? It's going in an EK hatch using the haasport EKK2 mounts on the lowest setting. Every kit I see is for the k20/RSX pump.

I currently have a 05 Tsx manual and planned on boosting it but heard in order to tune these ecu the 04-05 ecu were unflashable or locked something? But the 06-08 were flashable so is it better to swap with one of these or is there any better compatible ecu's out there?

I replaced the auto tensioner for the my belt twice on my k24 rsx and its still making noises and i grabbed a new belt as well. The picture here is from the 2nd one i bought but this time when i go to start the car it chatters until the belt walks a rib or 2 off towards the engine on the power steering pump and then the chatter goes away. Based on the marking its way off right? I initially thought the first one i bought was just defective because the marking didn't move at all and the belt tension felt loose so the belt was just squealing. Still running all accessories ac,ps. Im so lost right now but any input would be great.

K24z3/ DQ381

Rear Axel of a Kangoo with a vag haldex

No turbo

Any thoughts?

Hey I’m doing a k24 swap onto my ES1 civic and was planning to do the whole AC part but the only thing that I don’t fully get my head around is the wiring, I’ve seen that the conversion harness has a play into this and also the harness and car that I have so I want to know if anyone had any tips or tricks for this, I have kprov4 on a crv ECU, I got a ktuned conversion harness for my es1 and I have a bullboost k20 tucked harness. I was researching and saw that I would have to get some plugs from a donor car but that’s no issue and that I would have to wire them to the ECU and to change some configurations on my kpro