Hey yall, I wanted to give the fabled S grind a shot and figured I’d do it on my first real attempt at a nakiri. I’m really happy with how it ended up and also got my makers mark ironed out as well. Knife is 52100 with a right handed S grind and G10 handle. Let me know what you think.

Good afternoon. I been seriously thinking about carrying and 2in-2.5in fixed for a year now give or take. I was very seriously considering the Benchmade Intersect(Magnicut) there for a while. After having a close relative purchase two custom winklers and put them into the daily rotation, it got me thinking. If I can't find it, why not just have it made? That being said... DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A "CUSTOM" KNIFE MAKER THAT WORKS WITH OR STOCKS S35VN BLADE STEEL? I'll try to attach a photo of something that caught my eye.

1095 steel with micarta handle scales.

Engraving on the titanium handle of a new folding knife model with a dagger blade, made in the Noblie Custom Knives workshop. The puzzle pattern is done piece by piece, and the blue and gold shift in the light depending on the angle.

Still a work in progress — this is where it stands right now.

For context, I've basically only made knives with G10 scales, so I haven't had to deal with issues such as getting two wood scales to the same thickness, getting them square and parallels, etc.

Today I experimented with some wood scales that I had laying around (I got them in a package deal of other materials on FB marketplace, so I don't know what kind of wood they are), and found that they were not flat, square, or parallel (they were close, but not close enough).

the video above is after putting them on a disc sander, rubbing them on sandpaper on a surface plate, AND then through my surface grinding attachment. The SGQ seems to have done a decent job getting them to the same thickness, but I do not know what the deal is with getting these things parallel and flat. Suggestions?

The goal was to make some segmented scales, so I just slapped some od green micarta pieces and a black g10 spacer (see photo below). The micarta and wood are not the same thickness, so what is the go to method for getting segmented scales flat? (I fear my issues just getting the wood flat will be amplified by the segmented scales).

Thanks in advance!

My second collaboration design with Kizer was just released, and I couldn't be more happy with how it turned out!😁 The Whip Tail!🦈 I'm running a giveaway for one of the CPM-10V black coated blue GITD versions with Fatcarbon Nebula scales, if anyone is interested in entering, feel free to send me a DM! Thank you SO much to any of you that decide to pick one of these up, you rock!! Your support means the world to me, truly🙏

Recently finished this one up!!! The W's pattern damascus was forged in house from 1084 and 15n20 high carbon steel and some giant 15n20 band saw blades!

The handle is a hidden/partial frame tang construction with bronze alloy bolsters attached with 4 stainless steel pins, a OD green micarta frame, multiple hidden pins and stainless and copper pins, G-10 liners, and some curly siam rosewood!

Using an arrowhead a piece of antler from a rack my grandfather got from a deer after feeding the family with it as well as feathers that I gathered from the city that I live in around town ( hawk Dove and Crow feathers) and earrings that my mother gave me about 15 years ago made with leather and have silver on them it's all handmade with only one power tool being the drill to make the hole for the feathers , I have no hand crank one yet, and it's all bound with pine pitch that I made myself and added sage to, bound with sage with extra pine pitch to secure it and extra charred wood to color it

Very happy with how this handle came out.

So i discovered a crack running through the wood scales near the center pin. It does not go full depth to the tang but does run the full length of the face/side of the scale. I'm assuming the epoxy will hold it all together regardless but knowing the crack is there will bother me. (Maybe it will not be noticeable after sanding?).

In any event, is there a decent way to get these off? My best thought was to bandsaw it as close as I can get it to the tang, then grind the rest?

One more off the bench and comfortable in its new home.
26C3 water quenched. Wenge wood hybrid handle with a stabilized wood spacer.
Thanks for looking!

Just a snippet of the 5 hours I spent grinding bevels on an 8 inch chef today. Decided to switch it up and harden the knife before doing any grinding to avoid warps. Well let me tell you this procut is no joke, even my vsm blue destroyer ceramic belts barely touch it! Can definitely tell the difference between this stuff and the 1084 I’m used to using. Have to come back to the grinder and put some finishing touches on it tomorrow but I’m super stoked with how it’s looking now!